I had posted this bow, but before it was finished, oiled and shot in. I think the tiller is good, but it’s a jatoba belly and I’ve read it needs to be bang on perfect, yeah? Top limb is a little positive tiller, being 1/8 deeper at equal spots by handle. The braced picture looks like an optical trick, because I made a very long leather handle that is offset towards bottom limb. Anyways, please give me feedback, and be harsh! And also experiencing a decent handshock if gripped with dominant fingers and minor amount with hill style grip. Not used to that grip however. Is it wise to remove material from the tips of this bow? Was thinking maybe bringing the sides in more, is that going to make a discernable difference? Shooting arrows that fly true but havent made ny for this bow, with heavier tips. just finished it yesterday

Take that quiver off, and then pos some pictures. It LOOKS to me as if there is a slight hinge between the quiver and the handle on the top limb, but it's hard to tell.

I know it's an old Kwikee Kwiver, but it's in the way. And get a cover on those boroadheads. If that bow breaks with those things on there like that you are going to have flying knives.

Whoops didn’t mean to do that.

It looks like the tiller is different with the quiver on? Maybe an optical illusion? The top pictures look pretty good.

Look at the shadow of the top limb. Particularly in the top photo of the 2.

4nolz and fdp does the tiller look good in last pictures?

Check the marked area.

It looks good to me but I am not an expert. Bend through the handles bow tend to have some hand shock. Lighter tips does help but yours don't look excessive. Enjoy. >>>>-----> ken

String grooves are 1/4” offset from back to belly. Too little?

And yeah, I realized after wife took pictures that I was avoiding ceiling so aiming slanted downwards

And yeah, I realized after wife took pictures that I was avoiding ceiling so aiming slanted downwards

Thank you for pointing that out, makes sense and i can also see it’s not steep enough when looking at bow

Looks pretty darn good to me. Definitely nothing that jumps out like a hinge or anything. Shoot it a while and keep an eye on it as wood bows can change a little as the wood stretches and compresses. I shoot my D bows I make with my thumb pointing up on the belly of the grip rather than actually trying to wrap it around the bow. Seems to feel a little better. Looks like you got a winner. Oh and I agree that the angle of the string nocks might be better off a little shallower but the tiller looks close to perfect for that style of bow. Nice work. David

Ide say go shoot it a few times for a week, and recheck.?...ide say done, but some bows need a slight retiller after shooting..?

Thanks guys! I was thinking it was OK but was not too sure of my opinion. Anyone work with jatoba and have chrysals develop, or have any success stories? I am a cabinet maker and could have taken a more easily “workable” species from work but the grain was too pretty to pass up. Hickory backed by the way, and pulling 55# at 26”. Also, anyone know to some idea how much “set” affects draw weight? This bow isn’t developing much at all, I’ve just been looking for an answer to this question for a while

the fact that it hasn't taken much set would seem to indicate a fairy good tillering job. I would not put a quiver back on the bow though. Bow quivers are always mounted on the non-bending part of the grip/riser...which your bow doesn't have. Good job on the bow.

I don't think set will affect draw weight as much as it will cast. I would not worry too much about it. Some of my favorite hickory bows from way back when I started making bows have like 3 inches of string follow and they still launch an arrow with authority. I will say this though if you are worried about it taking a set try to avoid shooting it much in really damp conditions. I don't worry and hunt in the pouring rain with some of mine,hence the 3 inches of set I mentioned.

Thanks.

I actually am not worried about the bow getting it, just curious about how much draw weight can depreciate? More from a curious point of view than anything else. I see some guys prefer string follow, me I don’t think I am deep enough into archery yet to have an informed opinion. Only been shooting three years, only been making bows about a month, and making arrows even less than that

I'd leave it as is.The hardest part is making yourself stop.Start another with a rigid handle if handshock is an issue.Good job!

It’s not that bad, just have been babied shooting my laminated glass longbow. have been curious about stiff handled, I’ll have to look into methods?

I have made a pile of bows and you tiller looks much better than most to me. Your bottom limb is a little stiff but that is a good thing because bottom limbs tend to go weak over time and you have a little insurance against this.

Thanks Eric, yeah I left the bottom limb stiffer intentionally because reading positive tiller Is good for this type of bow

I know you didn't ask, but there's a reason that most quivers have hoods. Plus almost 99.9% have their arrow pointed UP. As a kid I had my broadheads pointed down without a hood as you have in the first picture. I was walking along and had to go over two strands of a broken fence. I started with my left leg and being right handed the bow was in my left hand. I jammed four broadheads in my leg just above my knee.

One other thing. Put your thumb down on your string hand. If you want to get into reasons PM me. Or do a search for a thread called 'Hooking'. Might not address the thumb specifically?

Bowmania

I think what Eric Krewson said is right on the money. It looks good!

Thanks bowmania, I have the hood and have never bothered using it, suppose I should. It’s a long walk back to the car! I would love to get a thunderchild or some nice quiver, but putting foam in my kwikie hood should suffice fine. I want to take picture of drawing with arrow and see if I do the thumb thing

Meant boa. Had a post about thunder child bow in my brain

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