OK - first things first: I don’t care if you don’t use them, don’t like them, or think they’re out of place on a “traditional” bow. If you’ve got nothing constructive to add, we can argue about something else on some other thread. I checked the Debate-Free box for a reason...

And with that out-of-the-way…

I’m starting to set up the Thunderbird, and I had a thought to go with an elevated rest so I could shoot vanes on a rainy day if I were to have a notion...

I know some of you like the old Bear Weather-rest, but is it as good with vanes as with feathers?

I was kind of thinking about something along the lines of the old Flipper rest.... assuming that they’re suitably weather-proof. Target-grade accuracy with hunting-class reliability sort of thing...

Any favorites?

NAP FlipperII

Thank me later. 8^)

Rick

Yes, the Bear Weather Rest shoots vanes off my bow as good as feathers.

Flipper II

For one of my bows I made a homemade elevated rest using the below "how to"

https://tradbow.com/make-toothbrush-rest/

Image from the site is here.

Flipper or the Hoyt stick on. I make them all now but there is one of the Hoyt plastic stick on rests that has been on my practice bow for many years. Pretty sure it is Hoyt the name is worn off. It has the little side plate cushion as well. I shoot any of my bows a little better with one. I just won't put them on a self bow or longbow. Many like the Bear but the rubber never seemed like the arrow pass was as smooth. Felt it on the draw probably made no difference on the shot. >>>----> ken

PS I just shoot vanes with this bow.

Thanks, Rick - I was hoping you’d chime in!

And the Flipper sounds like the unanimous winner ;)

Glad I was on the right track..

Just FYI:

I used the Flippers, and the Center Flippers for many years, and used them for both all my target shooting, and all my hunting.

I've hung the bat/arm, and turned it completely backward on them a few times. I just flipped it back forward where it belonged, and carried on.

I was using them primarily on a 98# recurve with 600 Plus grain arrows. They were taking a beating, but I never broke one, and never had one fail.

Rick

Heck Draven no wonder my patients have rotten teeth. All the toof brushes are on bows.

I've used stick-on rests for over fifty years now and never had one come off, and never had one break. I don't know what you need to shoot arrows from but a Hoyt stick on will work just fine and costs $2.50 each at Lancaster Archery for the regular or hunting model. They still use them occasionally in Olympic archery as well.

The Flipper II is also pretty much bullet proof, and those of us who have shot stick-on rests pretty much have tried many of them. They will hold up just fine until you want to change them.

I just went and browsed Lancaster.... all of the Flippers appear to mount through a hole such as would accommodate a Berger Button...

What happened to the stick-on version???

Looks like Lancasters & 3Rivers no longer carries them, but you can still get them straight from NAP for $6.99.

Rick

In the late 70s and early 80s around here flipper 2s were the only rests anyone used on compound and recurves.

Babysaph I blame their lack of skills! How many toothbrushes someone has to cut to make a rest? PS that was unexpected! Good one Babysaph!

Just buy it from the maker, NAP.

https://www.newarchery.com/product/flipper-rest-ii/

I use the good old brush rest. Started using one back in 1972 when I wanted to use vanes for hunting in wet weather. Had one fail once, about 15 years ago. They are cheap as well. I trim them on the bottom so it sits closer to the shelf. No issues with vanes. I have used Blazer vanes, NAP vanes, AAE and Bohning vanes over the years. I get mine from Black Widow or 3 Rivers.

I forgot the brush. I like them too. The flipper and Hoyt work fine though. I agree with George and Rick they work. If they scare you for $2.50 you carry a spare in your quiver. I did I like insurance but I never needed it. You can see exactly where to stick the new one on. Nothing changed. One model comes with a hole for the plunger. It works just fine with out one. That is the one I copy using the plastic store display racks. I believe George does too. Then you can have as many as you want for free. The brushes and feather rests are also fairly easy to make. Well you will need a little two sided tape which makes it easier for spares or barge cement if you do all your work at home.>>>----> Ken

Forget the Flipper rest. Just get the $2.50 Hoyt Super Rest George mentioned. It's the best elevated rest. I still am using one I installed on a 76er around 1978.

Joe

I like the Para rests, not sure they make them any more, still have a couple on the shelf.

“ I still am using one I installed on a 76er around 1978.”

Maybe you should shoot more often???

:p

Another Hoyt stick on rest guy here on some bows. Not all. I also shoot off the shelf and off feather rests as well. I'll be hunting with one tomorrow. Never had one fall off yet.

@Dean - what’s the Para? The others, I’m familiar with....

The Para Rest is a brush rest with a leather self-adhesive backing.

Thanks, George!

Haven't the dopes ever brushed their teeth with a bow!!!

GF, Nice disclaimer to start out. Hope it works, but I doubt it.

I've been shooting a Spig ZT rest. I wouldn't call it a great hunting rest, but I have it wrapped in mole skin and haven't had a problem.

I was having trouble tuning my ILF rig with a strike plate and rug, more or less because of time constraints. A buddy said try this - the ZT. I had it tuned in 6 shots.

Bowmania

Owen Jeffery always used an elevated rest

pararest

The pararests that I have are plastic. I use them on my Grooves recurve with the cutout. the rest brush is long enough that I can mount it inside the cut out and still have enough brush to support the arrow. Back in the 60s when they were mounted on leather, the guys used to trim them a little shorter. They are not as affected by cold as the Bear rest nor rain like feather rests. Those vertical feather rests give excellent arrow flight, but they can be compressed with heavy narrow arrows like efoc carbons. With the Para rest on the Grooves, that bow will shoot any spine arrow I want. No fun at all, it takes all of the fun out of spine selection.

Gotta LOVE that hat, Dean!

Spig as in Spigarelli, correct?

Pararest Soooo easy to make with a ladies eyelash brush a small piece of leather and two sided tape. I always used cheap tooth brushes but they are harder to cut and grind. It is amazing what you learn when you have more time than money. I never want or lack for anything archery related. >>>>-----> Ken

Your hat looks like a Saxon Para Rest.

You guys are just jealous, it had a plastic bill under the cloth, I had to use a side cutter to hack it off. The thing fits and stays on my head. it is not real cat or fox fur, if it was, my nose would be running and my eyes swelled shut.

Weather Rest - But with about a 1/16 of an inch cut off bottom to the rest and flipper arm. It keeps the rest closer to the bottom to the shelf and makes the flipper arm a little more flexible. Got this idea from Barry and Gene Wensel. Works great. Next time I get to Cos Cob I'll show you GF.

I’d been wondering when you’d show yourself down there! Saw Groundstalker tonight at the monthly... he has a new idea for a novelty shot that sounds interesting...

I was thinking to install the rest as low as possible... not sure if that might compromise the performance with vanes, but it makes sense to me...

I’m really looking forward to shooting this stubby little bow a lot more. The speed of it was a little bit surprising...

Bear Weathrest. My dad used one on his bows and NEVER had a problem .

I like the Hoyt Hunter rest.

Another vote for the Flipper II.

Brush rest made from a toothbrush. Great arrow flight, the arrow does not fall off under a pressure shot, last for a LONG time.

Nice shootin' Bud!!

GF,

Lancaster has tons of stick on rests.

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/bow-accessories/arrow- rests/recurve-finger-rests.html

Saw those, thanks - just so many options and most of them look like they're intended for target recurves, so I thought I'd poll the hunters....

THX!

IMO if your arrows fly well off the shelf with feathers they'll fly just as well off the shelf with small soft (small, soft) vanes (unless you're living with the drag of rug rest).

If you need large feathers or large vanes to get good flight your setup is way out of tune.

Try vanes with your current setup.

Hey GF, I hope this image downloads. It will give you an idea of how I trim the rest. You also want to use the thinest possible adhesive tape to mount the rest.

GF, don't be fooled by delicate looks, especially on the Hoyt Super Rest. I've never had one fail or come off. There are lots of good ones though.

PeteA, thanks for posting that picture. I wasn't exactly sure what you meant but the picture tells it all. I use the Bear Weatherest on my 52" Wing Thunderbird hunting bow. I have to try that the next time I change the rest out. I really like the Weatherest.

Hatrick -

Is it pure coincidence that I want to put this rest on a 52” Thunderbird?

Pete - that’s good thinking; seems a good idea to keep the bow as centershot as possible to allow more spine tolerance... and I like the idea of keeping it low, too. I’ll probably give them a go, just because they’re too cheap to not see how I like ‘em.

GF - the old 52" Wing Thunderbird makes a GREAT little hunting bow. If you haven't already done it, I think you'll be very pleased with the performance if you decide to use the Bear Weatherest. I use a BCY X string on mine as well. I have a 45 and 46 pound 52" Thunderbird. I would love to get my hands on a 50 pounder.

Believe it or not but some Olympic shooters actually still use (or did recently) the Hoyt stick on... Haven't looked into it recently, but I think the woman's Gold Medalist used one in 2012 London...

How about the good old springy rest, works well for me and pretty much bombproof.

Oops, forgot you need a stick on. Sorry.

I like the AAE ST-300, they also make a version that works with a plunger but I haven't tried that.

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/aae-st-300-hunter-arrow-rest-rh.html

I also use and like the cheap 'brush rest' that 3 Rivers sells -

https://www.3riversarchery.com/brush-rest-elevated-arrow-rest.html

Matt, "I know some of you like the old Bear Weather-rest, but is it as good with vanes as with feathers?" That is what I have had on my Deathmaster for years, the black stick on one, and they work fine with both vanes and fletch. In fact, just two days ago on stand, I had to cut it off and went back to using the rug because the flipper (part of it) rest broke off and my arrow would fall down whenever I drew back. So I lowered my nock point and now I'm back to using the shelf/rug and flech...haven't used vanes for 15 years (back in WA) anyway, and don't plan to.

I use a Bear WeatherRest a lot but on some bows I like the Cavalier T300 - similar to the one Dana mentioned but works with a cushion plunger

I suppose I’d be OK with a plunger if the riser were drilled for one already, but I wouldn’t attempt it without a drill press...

I’ll check out those links...

Flipper rest is great,but I have trouble keeping the teflon sleve on.

Hey GF, I just went through researching possibilities of shooting vanes off of my Black Widow recurves. I ended up going with the inexpensive brush rest from three rivers archery and also 2 fletch 4” Low profile vanes. My friend shoots the same rest with 3 fletch LP vanes but I felt like the 2 fletch worked better. Now in my opinion this brush rest needs altered a tad. Well not really altered but modified installation. The rest comes with a mesh type adhesive installed...I found that it doesn’t adhere real well. I ended up separating the leather from the plastic base and brushes then pealed off the mesh adhesive. Next, using barge cement I mounted the brush part first then fit the leather part over the brush again using barge cement...It ain’t moving or coming off now.

The 2 fletch proved to be superior over 3 fletch for obtaining total clearance so that’s what I went with.

If you are confused about everyone's opinion, rest assured that mostly all of the stick-ons mentioned will do the job. I just look for simplicity (don't need a cushion plunger), durability and cost. If I can buy three or four simple rests like the Hoyt Hunter for the price of one T-300, then that's how I go. I also make my own and find them just as good as any bought rests at about one-tenth or less the cost...and they are super quiet because Velcro is used for the side plate. I've posted how I make them several times, but if you're interested I'll post again. Very simple.

A brush rest worked for me with stiff vanes too, and so has the Flipper rest for a takedown with a Burger button, but the rest I like the best is the old Hoyt rests with the leather side plates. Had brown, red and tan ones, but they just work well without any mechanics. The one in the photo is plum worn out but they can often be found on the big auction block. Still have a red one on a four wheel Jennings target bow that has lasted since 1978. Fantastic with vanes if you can find one.

That’s a GOOD trick!

I guess I'm the only perfectionist here. All of these rests have deficits and many are too ugly for my tastes. I'm getting bids on manufacturing my own. I'm already manufacturing releases, why stop there. I never wanted to do any of this...

...and now investigating bow manufacturing. God grief this is like quicksand...

*Good grief*

David -

I’ve been impressed by what some very knowledgeable shooters have had to say about your methods. You’ve taken some GREAT animals. You obviously have a lot going on.. But for God’s sake, Man...

Put Up or Shut Up!!!!

I’m tired as hell of reading about techniques I can’t learn and miraculous products that I can’t buy - not necessarily because I can’t afford them, but because you can’t get your [Stuff] together to make them available to the public.

I sincerely hope that everything you’ve written about is even better than you’ve promised.

But until I can use it??? You may as well be a Troll....

It's not like I haven't helped quite a few people...and I guess you recall I did offer a free seminar to EVERYONE here on the LW...

If it makes you feel any better, as of right now, today, I have several thousand releases manufactured and I'm proud of them because they make my prototypes look crude and ugly. They are in the next room ha! And I guess I'm going to have several thousand rests by this summer. I'm just lamenting here rather than amping because I don't want to make stuff, but this rest situation is calling out for improvement. Be happy I'm a perfectionist that is working on things for everyone, not to make money per se but because someone has to do it.

Back to topic, an improved rest is admittedly not that big a deal. It just aggravates me, that all of these rests have flaws. For example, consider the Brush Rest. Looks ok, but if you use a fairly heavy arrow, it won't hold the arrow and you are forced to cant the bow on draw to keep the arrow from falling off. Then, the shaft can float on top of the hair rest one time and another time on the little ridge so you can get extreme flyers (depending upon your shaft diameter). A little work with a Dremel tool and you can fix this, but now the rest looks ugly. Another flaw, is the contact point with arrow shaft is about a half inch. That's too much, you're losing a bit of potential accuracy...and lastly, there is no flex contact point like on the Hoyt rests. And the Hoyt rests are too noisy, the plastic is too hard...it IS a problem when you draw back on a big buck and he hears the scraping sound of your arrow on that hard plastic....blah blah these are just examples of some of my complaints, but any of them is too many!

Target archery is hard and bow hunting arguably is even harder, the difference between success and failure can just be from a minor issue...And the ugliness of using a toothbrush...no no, it's not acceptable. This is not how the iPhone came to be...hehe...

Most folks just adjust a rest to suit them. An example is I used to cut part of the plastic directly on the side plate of the Hoyt rest for one of my bows, which in my own mind, I thought it helped. Used to make our brush rests before they were available as another example. Folks just do what they need to do like my old house where I use a horse stall latch (huge screen door type latch) for the bathroom door. It'll hold it shut in an Oklahoma tornado. Same with arrow rests, so no matter what I buy, might tweek it some.

Most folks just adjust a rest to suit them. An example is I used to cut part of the plastic directly on the side plate of the Hoyt rest for one of my bows, which in my own mind, I thought it helped. Used to make our brush rests before they were available as another example. Folks just do what they need to do like my old house where I use a horse stall latch (huge screen door type latch) for the bathroom door. It'll hold it shut in an Oklahoma tornado. Same with arrow rests, so no matter what I buy, might tweek it some.

I watched Robin D. shoot a perfect field round around 1978 at an archery club in Lewistown, Pa. He used a Bear Tamerlane compound bow with an imperfect setup of a Flipper rest and cushioned plunger. 560 out of 560. Of course there were others getting into competitive archery that began shooting perfect scores...which was catalyst for changing the scoring system on field targets circa 1977. All of those perfect scores were shot with imperfect rests David. Makes you wonder.

The flipper rest is quite accurate. A bit noisy for hunting depending on shaft finish. The cushion is a bit stiff for my tastes, but using a Berger type of cushion plunger you can fix that but NAP should have a few more versions/alternatives...but that's their business.

Jim Ploen shot some very high scores just using a hard rest, a wood peg or nail as I recall...hey, high scores are beautiful in their own way...

But consider this...why did so many Native Americans decorate their arrows? In part because of tribal identify no doubt. But I also wonder if the extreme attention to their arrows had a long term survival benefit. Namely, if you are worrying about painting an arrow you are also no doubt looking at types of minor imperfections such as with the flint heads, the straightness of the shaft, the feather symmetry and so forth. Over time, those who paid utmost attention to detail would arguably have more success in hunting than those that didn't care as much...just a little theory...

By extrapolation, maybe this is why the military makes a big deal out of making up your bunk to a high standard to start the day...

I put fuzzycro on my flipper rests, so they are as quiet as anything else you might use, and quieter than most.

Like I mentioned above, I have used the Flipper II's, and Center Flippers "A Lot", used them on very heavy draw weight bows, with very heavy arrows. They take a beating with such equipment, but I have never had one break, or fail in any other way.

Lots of great rests out there, but for my money (on bows they will work on) the NAP Flipper is what I will always use "IF" I am going to use an elevated rest at all.

Rick

I started rolling my own (metaphor) about ten-couple years ago. I still use a few bought rests...mostly the Hoyt Super Rest, but am converting to my own brand. They're bomb proof, cheap and easy to make; and, completely against all biased logic, they provide an accurate shot as far as you are capable of shooting. I can hit a gallon milk jug at sixty yards when using them, and when I do miss it, it's not the fault of the rest.

Anyway, I've posted it on the Leatherwall three different times. Since then, all of the photos have been sent to the netherworld by the vagaries of technology that I don't understand myself. So I'll photos of the rest and what they are made from. It's so simple even most here can figure it out.

A $2.97 purchas of Industrial Strength Velcro at Walmart will make near a dozen of them. The rest itself is made from "clip strips" that are used in retail to display items and can hang from a side counter. The clips can be had for nothing if you visit some stores that use them and ask. They typically throw them away when empty.

The first photo shows it on my Carroll's takedown. The second photo shows it on other bows.

All of us perfectionists modify things and that leads to making them. Babbling Bob posted a picture of an obviously well worn bow and rest. It is still working fine. It is my favorite of the stick on rest. I have had the same one on an Old Bear Polar for over 15 years. It is my daily shooting warm up bow. If it ever fails it will get one like in Georges picture. They are so easy to make exactly like you want them from the plastic display racks. They all work well go to Lancaster and pick the price you want to pay. Nice to have choices. Anyone that has interference problem with a elevated rest of any kind the support is usually too long. Just 3/4 the diameter of the arrow with a little uptick on the end will give clearance to any setup and cradle the arrow.Those with less dexterity need bigger stouter rest,just like non tuners need bigger feathers. Buy or make what you need. No one can tell you exactly what you need. >>>----> Ken

Do you guys use elevated rests for shooting feathers aswell? I have been toying with this idea for a while, but I shoot feathers on my arrows not vanes.

Thanks!

Rick3, elevated rests weren't made for vanes...they were made for minimal contact. I use them with feathers, and have so for over fifty years.

Awesome thanks George... is there any real trick to tuning them or does it make it easier to tune. I shoot 3 under off the shelf now and I use the fixed crawl for aiming.

Thanks again!

I put a Naka magnetic flipper type rest on my Silvertip recently and got around to shooting it today (with feathers). It'll be staying on there.

This group at 30 yards with next to no ambient light left may have changed my mind about those cheap, junky Bear Weather-rests permanently...

How could anything so plasticky and mass-produced possibly be any good??

Beats the snot outta me!

I don't usually post shooting pics here due to the BS that it attracts so I'll PM you the distance, but these were the first 3 shots with this rest. I readjusted the nock point to allow for the elevation over shelf height, the pivot block for the flipper sticks out about 1/8". I was using trimmed calf hair of about 1/16" before on the strike plate so I expected to have to make some tip weight adjustments. Surprisingly none were necessary, I shot out to 40 yards today and am very pleased. I would recommend this rest.

Ha!

Well, you DO realize that the top competitors only use them for show, right?

LMTO!

I love shooting off the shelf and likely won’t switch entirely - especially not the LBs - but DAY-UM.

Yes Sir, Longbows shelf for show/tradition unless they are take downs and rests for re/curves. Unless competing where they are not allowed. Give you one guess why they may not be allowed. :^) >>>>-----> Ken

They won't be allowed because they shoot so damned well, and when I make my ILF LB jump it'll definitely have an elevated rest for that reason.

I make my own , and they are a copy of the Hoyt stick on rest.Thin leather , and heavy plastic Green Tea jugs. They work great.That is for vintage recurves. I shoot plunger button, and flipper rest for bows I shoot target with.

David for the win. >>>>-----> Ken

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