It’s raining hard today, so I time to fool around in my shop a bit. I’ve been shooting my Tamerlane a lot lately and have two sets of arrows that seem to shoot well from it. Some 30” 1916 Easton Jazz arrows and some 32” Linkboy 500’s, both sets have 100gr points. I shoot the Tamerlane instinctively but off the rest. Instead of just sticking with one set, I thought I’d do a little experiment and shoot each set back to back. I thought the spine must be pretty close between the two as I can shoot ok with either set, but I found that if I shot the aluminums first, i’d miss left with the carbons. If I shoot the carbons first, I miss right with the aluminums. Curiously, if I shoot exclusively with either set there’s no issue staying on center. I guess the old noggin will adapt slightly without me consciously changing anything? Anyway, this makes me wonder if spending a ton of time trying to finetune bare shafts etc. is really necessary? I haven’t bareshafted either set of arrows but after seeing the above, I’d probably be dissapointed with the bareshafts and then begin to obsess about it. I think I’ll just spend that time shooting and enjoying what Bear was able to produce in 1968. Here’s a few pics I took of what I was trying to explain. Shooting was with a tab @ 20yds. I was shooting at poker chips. The circle is the size of a NFAA 5 spot. First pic aluminum first, then carbons:

Next pic, carbons first the aluminum:

Then I mixed both in my pylon and shot them as they came out:

Hmmm, the pics should all be rotated 1/4 turn to the right...

Do they differ in weight or diameter?

MP

I don't know why it would cost a ton of money to bare shaft??? Cut the feathers off one or two.

It is your brain.

There quite a bit of differnce in the two arrows. 1916's are .623. Shooting as good as a couple of those groups you should be able to tell the diff.

Bowmania

The carbons are acting stiffer as they should.

'this makes me wonder if spending a ton of time trying to fine tune bare shafts etc. is really necessary? '

If you are happy, you are done. Note that bare shaft tuning does not require spending a ton of time, nor do you have to 'fine' tune.

My spin on spine is that I want to be able to shoot with the confidence that the arrows fly properly off the bow so any dispersion on the target is do to me. Besides, I hate seeing the fletching of mismatched arrows deflect to one side every time they leave the bow. (acsbows/ bow tuning)

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