Aluminums are still great shafts

I like them better than carbon But mainly shoot wood

Gpp.. aluminum are great I prefer them to carbon and prefer wood to them. I can switch between wood and aluminum with very little if any changes to my bow. I can shoot two classes with one bow if I chose to do that. Aluminum has been making it happen for a long time and will always be around

Whatever you want to do. I still prefer aluminum over carbon. I find them to be more suitable for my shooting.

You will get nearly as many opinions are there are folks that will post.

Unless you mean gpi which is 12.2 on 2018 either way wasn’t trying to be a smart Alec I just see those two misused a lot.

I switched back from carbon years ago. I love the consistency.

I have both and prefer the consistency and price of the aluminum. I think the 2114 aluminum.arrow is about the most versatile arrow to be had. A lot of bowhunters better than me think so too.

I switched back to Aluminum recently after I bought a new bow. Very easy to tune. I plan to stay with aluminum.

I prefer Aluminum for the most part. I like wood and carbon also. My main thing about aluminum is what a rugged arrow it makes. I use glue ons for swedged arrows, and like that they are strong, never rattle, or unspin the heads. It is best quality ammo for my buck. There are a lot of things that go into a choice though, and it can change when just one thing changes.

I also used Aluminum with my compound because I could get 100 grain Grizzly heads, 2212s swagged, and get ASA velocities without a drop away rest. I never hunted with the compound, but it was a bad time in Canadian gun laws, and I was gearing up for a gun type deal. But the point is you can play arrows to deliver all kinds of performance. At the time people were shooting mechanical heads and carbons and using these weird rests.

2018's hit like hammers. Heavy and durable. Pulled some out to try in a new/old bow a week ago and just perfect.

*Lots* of difference between alloy and carbon. Find me a 450 in carbon! (2018 or 2115) ;-)

I still shoot and like aluminum but mostly wood.

Hip

I always use tin arrows...veey easy to tune without monkeying around, lots of spine choices and tough...plus they won't end up exploding and going through my hand.

Stix...what is your draw and arrow length? I love 2018's but use them in 60# bows

I shot aluminum years ago but now I only shoot wood. I can't think of one bad thing about aluminum arrows. If I wanted to change from shooting wood arrows aluminum would be what I'd be shooting. I like the consistency of aluminum.

I have and use on a regular basis 2020, 2117 and 2219 from bows ranging from 55# to 68#. I will also use 400 spine carbons in some of those same bows.

I have one 2219 that I used to kill a bear, a deer and a turkey in the same season. Clean it off, refletch and it is good to go.

Use the aluminums and the carbons if you choose. We have all had moments where we artificially believe in either or restrictions.

Use what shoots well and enjoy.

Aluminums here too after several years of carbons. Consistent and easy to tune. Regards

I like carbons simply because they are as straight as the day they were made or broke no more 5 gallon bucket full of bent ××75's for me

Choices are good.

Aluminum is cheaper, straighter, more consistent spine on any side, much easier to refletch, many more spine options and more weight without weighted inserts. If it just didn't bend it would be close to the perfect shaft material.

You can straighten aluminum and they will be just fine, and you can buy a straightener for less than a dozen carbon shafts if you check Ebay now and then. I have an old Groves that will make them good as near new. I like them because they have precision built-in so I know if I screw up...it's me. That said, there are lots of choices that will work just fine for guys like us who aren't shooting pennies at eighty yards.

The composite shafts are nice on those cold days though when the fingers protest cold metal. Wood is also a great choice and most archers will have several types in their convoluted messes. ;)

Both do a great job, but I will stick with my carbons.

Worst things about aluminum are rocks, re-bar and ricochets.

Wouldn’t really bother me if I took all of my shots at ranges where I knew I couldn’t miss foam, but when you start airing them out or taking novelty shots, they can have a pretty high casualty rate. With Judo points, I used to get better service life from cheap cedar flu-flus.... except when the dog was helping me find them!

But carbons last a lot longer with 1” or so of 2117 up front and about 1/4”-1/2” at the rear.

Shoot what you like and don’t let anybody tell you that their wide-eyed bias is any better than yours!

Fletched a new dozen aluminums yesterday for this years hunting season. I have shot them all,I prefer aluminum.

Aluminum is not cheaper where you guys coming from!!!

Aluminum is very consistent carbon varies much more used both and like both. Just depends on what you want.

Aluminums are great. 2018's are an excellent shaft. For me, they're much easier to tune.

Prefer aluminum also. Always have little or problem in getting great arrow flight with proper size aluminum easy to work with also.

I shot only wood for decades and really like them. But I bought some aluminums for a new bow and now I shoot bow wood and aluminum from both bows.

I like the aluminum arrows because they are straight.

Aluminum for me for 30 plus years. I've tried carbons and didn't care for all the tinkering and having to load them up for more weight and the spine inconsistencies. Aluminum is user-friendly. No need to hack away 1/8" at a time to get them to spine better for a particular bow, no need to have to add a bunch of weight on the front to get the gpp up, etc. Aluminum is the straightest shafts, consistent from shaft to shaft in spine, easy to work with, with just a tube cutter and ferr-l-tite for inserts, etc, etc. And affordable. That being said, I would take wood shafts behind aluminums. I have tried carbon shafts and never warmed up to them and probably never will, carbon would be my last resort for shaft material. Just my $0.02.

I have a much easier time tuning aluminum’s. Probably due to my lack of a high speed arrow saw to cut carbons with. More guessing. Anyway I love wood arrows. And carbons sure can be great. But for most of my shooting aluminum is the arrow of choice. Plus I got lucky a while back and scored a whole mess of the old autumn orange shafts! Love em!

I am a fan of aluminum as well, for all reasons stated. The only downside I find with them at all, is that if I want to accommodate a heavy broadhead, I either need to go to a thicker wall (making the total weight higher than I like), or go to a much fatter shaft, which I'm not crazy about either. But I guess there are plenty of good lighter broadheads to choose from.

Metal is more available in my neck of the woods for real cheap.

Picked up 30 aluminum arrows at a yard sale just Friday for 50 cents for the whole lot. Mostly 2016's and 2018's which I don't use so I will have to trade them off. Earlier this summer I picked up over 100 arrows and new shafts and a bitz jig for $40.00. Whats not to like about metal. My problem is I shoot 1916's most of the time and I don't find those much.

Michigan is an archery rich state.Lots of good used stuff out there at yard sales. Sometimes you just have to ask for archery items.

When I hunt I use wood and stone.

"Worst things about aluminum are rocks, re-bar and ricochets."

I shoot twice weekly with a group that shoots carbons. I've noticed that rocks, re-bar and ricochets do a number on carbons too. They do a better job of surviving direct hits on live trees. Of course, they all sleeve the shafts at the point end with aluminum.

"You can straighten aluminum and they will be just fine, and you can buy a straightener for less than a dozen carbon shafts if you check Ebay now and then."

Yes I do have to occasionally straighten aluminum, and that mostly works just fine. Finding the best type of straightener could be a problem. George's Groves straightener has been touted by many and I have one, but, hands down, the best is a Straight'N Arrow. They are no longer made and as rare as hen's teeth. Last one I bought was on Ebay, from a Canadian. My Groves straightener is for sale if you are interested.

I fabricate my own arrows from bare shafts and dress them as I please. All my tuning is done from the settled on point weight of 125gns. I may have to change arrow length for differing bows, but that is all.

Last year I decided to try carbons and was persuaded to buy Black Eagle Vintage arrows. I experimented with point weight and length changes till I got acceptable flight. I did notice a difference in my aim to get them on target(I gap shoot),not a big deal, but I was only intending to use them for 3D. To hunt, I would go back to aluminum which has proven performance, and thus, my confidence.

Most carbon users I know buy finished arrows and are always looking for the best performance in arrows from "whatshisname". Oh yeah, the Black Eagle arrows are fletched with right-hand feathers and I have always used left-hand. To make repairs I would have to stock right-hand feathers also. Also, nocks differ, another stock item. Point weight differed too, another repair stock item. And then there is the concern of checking the shafts on a regular basis to avoid piercing my bow hand. Ouch!

I don't know why anyone would have trouble fletching carnbons unless they're using the new skinny shafts. For 3D I like carbons, but for hunting a 2016 is my go-to.

The 'indoor' carbons I use cost $70 a dozen for shafts, the 3D shafts are $95/ dozen. For comparison Gamegetter 2's are $50 a dozen (all prices from Lancaster.)

I like the flatter trajectory of carbons for 3D because I may be taking longer shots than I would when hunting. Might go back to aluminums for indoor this year.

I like aluminum except when pulling arrows during cold weather.

I love aluminum 2016 2018 2114 2115.

Really Wild Bill that pic so old and how is that possible? Only on the Internet !!!!

I have the Easton Tributes, and I have been given over a dozen free shafts,, in the last month. They shoot well for me, and they are not expensive......

I am not a 3D shooter, just hunt,,,,,,

Carbons, then aluminum, and only wood for selfbows.They all have there place.

To each his own. I started with wood, went to aluminum, then carbon. Shot carbon for years. This summer I tried 2016's. I'm back to carbons. The aluminum is fine but I like either straight or broke. At Denton I was always checking for bent arrows after misses. I got tired of that. If you don't miss or never take fun shots a stuff you're fine with anything. Just my 2 cents.

I never left. They are proven and often inexpensive if you buy them used.

Still a very good, viable shaft. I'm ordering some new today and have a couple of boxes full of them. I prefer wood but aluminum is becoming my main go-to arrow. It's the easiest and quickest shaft to turn into a completed arrow.

I bounce back and fourth (never tried carbon)

Out of my bow wood seems quieter However I like Aluminum for the ease and consistency.

Wood is cool and looks great, but takes a lot more work (IMO)

Aluminum has been killing critters for a long time 2018's are great shafts XX75 camo hunters or Legacy shafts are great choices

Carbons are either straight or broken. Let's add crushed to that as that is what can make them explode into a gazillion pieces. Lots of good reasons to use, or not use certain arrows, but I don't buy that carbons are 'just' either straight or broken, and I hope you guys check them well after errant shots. Fiberglass will do the same, and I use them as well...that's the first thing I look at after a miss. Don't want no steenking pieces parts in my arm/hand.

I love aluminum 2018's and 2016's. Now this season prob have to go down to 1916's but not sure.

As far as I am concerned there are no pros or any cons with any arrow i use either Alum. or wood or Carbon.

I varied broad heads set up on many arrows. Matter a fact its not unusual to have Aluminum and wood and carbons together in my quiver when I hunt.

I can shoot any of these arrows from all my bows as well as various heads on them.

I always hunted like that. Only reason not to use a certain arrow is if its damaged none other than that I found.

That's why I say keep it simple stupid. Its an animal and its an arrow and if you can put the arrow where you look then that's it boys all else is fake news!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't think so go prove it for yourself but be honest about it and stop with the just talk!!!!!!!!!!!

All carbons always need to be inspected that's a given. The carbons today are not like the ones when they first came out and splinterd easy.

I'm a big fan of aluminums also. I know what they spine at, and how they react to point weight changes. They are good and accurate. The are very durable in my experience. Just don't nick them with another arrow or smash them into something very hard and they will last a long time.

All I use is aluminum. Wood is over priced and I don't like carbon.

I find carbons to be way more durable and the smaller shaft diameter probably is better for penetration/wind drift reduction. But as many above have stated... "whatever flies the best" is probably your answer. Good luck.

GUTPILE PA: "Aluminum is not cheaper where you guys coming from!!!"

With the possible exception of Easton Eclipse shafts, you may want to check the price differences of aluminums per shaft in comparison to carbons...check Lancaster

The only thing that i do not like about aluminum, okay two things, 1. I hate it when it is below freezing and my nose is dripping and the watery snot drops freeze to my arrow. 2. A wood arrow can be a bit stiff and still shoot good, aluminum arrows that are a little bit stiff will show it more, or if, heaven forbid, I get a short draw, the aluminum arrow will fly worse than the same wood arrow with a, heaven forbid, shorter draw. Now, I bet someone with a very long draw could say something about wood that may be different. I like 1918 and 1920 aluminum arrows, for a couple of my bows I like 1818s. I hate those 2314 15 17 19, whatever, I don't like fat thin walled aluminum arrows out of my longbows.

I use mostly aluminums when I want to shoot good. For risky stuff I shoot fiberglass. For special longbow shoots I use wood. Never cared for carbons. To me, aluminums are the easiest and best to manage.

With a good arrow-straightening tool and some practice, you can usually bend aluminum back to near-perfect straightness. Often, you can't straighten out an arrow enough to where you'd trust it with a broadhead, but in most cases you can get the arrow more than straight enough for 70 yard shots on the field range.

I'm the only person I know that shoots trad that is NOT using carbon, virtually everyone I know with a recurve shoots carbon. I don't trust carbon - I actually saw a carbon arrow snap in two upon release once - the archer was shooting a Browning Explorer. The arrow broke right in front of the fletching. Nobody was hurt, but the shooter was pretty much stunned..... the arrow could have broken at a different location and the results could have been a disaster...

I never could get carbons to fly as well as aluminum. Ive been shooting 2219's and 2216's since 91' . Most recently tried the full metal jackets and I can see they are a nice shaft, But I have been buying NOS arrows on eBay and whenever someone is getting rid of a stash so Im almost set for life. Im not a hoarder haha..

I did a swap with one of the George's for some skinny carbons. I shot them out of my longbow and they are about a fast an arrow that I have ever shot.

beeman: I have about 500 2216 aluminum inserts if you need any send me a PM and I will send some off to you.

I think alum. arrows are easy to shoot out of different weight bows. I shoot 2018's out of my 50 and 55lb recurves. 10 weeks after shoulder surgery I shot the same arrows with 145gr field tips out of 44lb Super Diabalo at at a WV bowhunter shoot and shot 510 out of 560. Not great but good for me. Clint

Another advantage - if you lose an arrow and someone else finds it, and the arrow makes it's way back to the 'lost and found' arrow bin, it is very unlikely that someone will steal it. In fact, when people see I'm shooting aluminum, you'd be surprised how many people just walk up to me and give me a bunch of new aluminum shafts that they've had lying around for 15 or 20 years since they switched to carbon. Recently, a guy at our range gifted me 42 new 2315 shafts, all but 6 being uncut.... I have tons of 2117, 2216, 2216, 2315, and 2317 that people just gave me... and, as beemann indicated, if you watch ebay you can pick up NOS shafts for a pretty good price. Although, new Easton Legacy shafts are still a good value even at retail price, and they are quite sharp-looking, I might buy some just because I think they're nifty-looking...

"Recently, a guy at our range gifted me 42 new 2315 shafts, all but 6 being uncut.... I have tons of 2117, 2216, 2216, 2315, and 2317 that people just gave me..."

It's dangerous to have all that aluminum in one place. I'd be happy to take half of those off your hands just so you can avoid the critical mass risk. I'll pay you twice what you paid for them, too. ;-)

So easy to pick the right aluminum shaft by looking at a chart. No need to stuff them, front load, or have half a foot hanging over the bow just to get them to shoot well.

Aluminum is my 3d choice. Carbons stay straight even when you bang them a bit. And there's just as much "technology" used in building an aluminum arrow as there is in a carbon. Wood is my second choice. Aluminum's bend when you look at them wrong and never really fly straight after that.

TMBB

"Aluminum's bend when you look at them wrong and never really fly straight after that."

I say wrong on both statements. A Easton XX75 2117 is about indestructable. So are 2020's and 2018's.

I am a fan of 2114's and 2016's because they work well in the bows I own. I have bent these arrows, re-straightened them and they shot as well as ever.

If the arrow is properly spined to the bow you are shooting even a slightly bent arrow will still group well. I know because I have done it while stumping. Try it for yourself.

Ken

I agree with Ken, been shooting and stumpin' with aluminum for years and have not found them to bend as easily as many mention here. I've been shooting 2020's,2018's and in lower bow weights 2016's at present time.

Whatever material one prefers, just not going to write off aluminum. Each to their own.

I miss being able to get swagged aluminum shafts.

Nothing wrong with aluminium other than carbon. Carbon became so popular that aluminium is seen in a negative light, wrong.

Aluminum does not bend really unless you miss your target and hit a rock the wrong way.... if you are a poor shot, or you take a lot of difficult shots with rocks behind your target, carbon may be a better alternative. XX75s are pretty durable, especially the shafts with relatively thick walls (e.g. 2117, 2219).

I had a dozen XX78 once, they were good shafts but they seldom bent, they were somewhat brittle and tended to snap at the tip when hitting a hard object (similar to what a carbon does....). At least with a bent arrow, you can usually bend it back - my XX78s? Not so much....probably a more durable shaft than the XX75 though.

I did have some Easton 'Eagle' shafts once, 2219s - wow, a gentle breeze would bend those suckers! Probably good for indoor practice arrows only.....

Wood is my favorite and I find myself always coming back to it. BUT- aluminum is an AWESOME shaft material. I shoot 2013s and 2016s out of my bows and the consistency and accuracy of aluminum cannot be ignored. They just fly great.

Oh- and while I’m thinking about it I have 1/2 doz autumn orange 2020s that I’ll never use. Free to a good home. *****theyve been cut****** probably 28” or so.

The only negative I have with aluminum which is no real problem is they are a little noisy with a leather shelf and side plate. I use mohair or velcro which I like better any way.

Aluminums have a lot better variety in spine and shaft weight for that spine. Example 2018 (heaviest), 2114 same spine but lighter, and 2013 same spine but the lightest. The thinner the wall, the easier to bend if looking for a lighter shaft. Carbons vary by manufacture, so to me, no consistency in figuring what to get. Someone mentioned that carbons are either broken or straight, lets not forget they also crack/fracture which can easily be missed (seen that happen). "To me" they take more work to tune and having to load up the front end to break down the spine to get them to fly right. If I want to shoot a lighter field point on a carbon, I need to buy the more expensive brass inserts to compensate for weight, to break down the spine. It is also easier to obtain mass arrow weight with aluminum than carbon. I can also cut aluminums with just a tubing cutter, with carbons I have to buy a saw and worry about inhaling the dust. I get that a lot of people love carbons. For me though, if it ain't broke no need to fix it, and that is aluminums and my second choice would be woods. DANNY

At one shoot a fellow walked up to me and asked what i was shooting. I showed him my autumn orange 1918, he said wait here. He came back with two dozen swaged 1918s 24rst and two dozen 1920 GG with extra inserts. I shot two deer with the 1920s with Hill a 140s out of my 64 pound bow. Those 20 walled aluminums are very efficient hunting shafts.

I agree 100% with all of what linecutter said...if a bow has issues with 2018's it will be better with 2115's or vice versa.The spine groupa are handy.

I am very happy as I just found 11, fletched and never shot Autumn Orange ands Autumn Hunter 1918's on ePay...that size is very hard to find and is an excellent size.

Wish they still made them...

GT trad classic arrows will get you your intended 10gpi. I shoot the 500's and they are 10.2 gpi. I know you are asking about aluminums but you could get to what your looking for and still have to durability of carbons..

Some of the most expensive arrows ive bought bought were less than $40.00 per dozen. Alum 1716s and 5/16 cedar. They were expensive because they did not last ling--- bending and breaking when stump shooting or a miss at 3d. Not nocking these materials, but the $100.00 beman mfxs have been my most inexpensive shafts as they just hold up so well.

Pro's = less initial cost, easy to build, good spine assortment, straight and can be straightened fairly easily, thicker walled shafts are pretty durable. Good initial weight. Screw in points are a real plus for me. No finishing/sealants needed.

Cons = Thinner walls not real durable.

Dean- you came out good man. I WISH somebody would walk up and hand me some 1820’s or 2016’s. Or 2013’s or 1916’s.

Thinking back to when I shot a compound they were always getting bent. Otherwise I liked them.

No arrow is indestructible, we know that. One thing that is nice about an aluminum shaft is that they are all exactly the same, given the same type and number. If you do happen to break one or lose one, all you have to do is pull a shaft off the shelf, cut and square the mouth and stick it together. I can have a couple arrows done in half an hour and be shooting that afternoon. My opinion is all archers should at least be able to make their own arrows.

I should have said "compared to wood shafts" they are exactly the same.

To me aluminum shafts seem tough. I shot a single 2219 swaged arrow with a judo point for 3 years out of a 67lb recurve. Mostly into dirt but hit mant rocks and logs. Another plus is you cand find them burried with a cheap metal detector.

I've used aluminum 2117 & 2216 for years in various bows. Great shafts but my preference now is carbon. Use what you like and what works for you.

The best thing about aluminum is if you have the correct spine then you have the correct weight also with a 125 gr. head. No extra weighting or components needed.

Never drank the carbon koolaid. I have probably 1k plus shafts and arrows in about 8 sizes for bows from 35# to 75#. it takes me only about 20 mins to pick the right arrow size and point weight to get a bow tuned. I never pay more than 30 bucks for a dozen shafts and usually much less.............. I have more shafts lost than ever damaged beyond re-straightening. Carbon was the answer to a question Ive never asked in 25 plus years with a stickbow......

Aluminum Pros- easier to make an arrow that has weight to it, easier to tune than carbons.

Aluminum Cons- will bend, sometime without you noticing. Heavier arrow that will drop faster over longer distances.

I have a 71' Bear Kodiak Hunter that has not proven easy to tune with wood or carbon at my long draw length. It will, however, group a 32" 2114 like a dream out to 40 yards. I have been resistant to going back to aluminum, but you can't argue with the results.

I currently shoot aluminum 2018 and have used aluminum for years. I also like wood and can switch between the two materials with no changes in bow setup. both my 2018 and wood come in at 550 to 585 gr. Nice and heavy.

So, to summarize....

If you want a lightweight arrow that can take a hit, best bet is an aluminum-footed Carbon.

If you want durability out of aluminum arrows, a .017 or heavier wall thickness should do well for you. Maybe even a .016, though I have not had much luck with the Tributes in that regard. They must be made of the same, relatively wimpy aluminum as the old Eagles....

But at least the Tributes spine just like the higher-grade shafts, so you can build up a cheap test kit. As long as you like 16s....

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