I have not posted in a long time.Huge family problems.I recently got a limb off a mulberry tree .It is rather thin and fairly knotty.I think I can see a bow in the tree limb stave somewhere.It most probably have to be a elb style and probably only about 35# to maybe 40# if it can be made.One question what is the best way to deal with the knots.Do I leave them proud or just go for a bi lam backed bow instead of a true self bow.It is currently about 2 3/4 "down to 2 1/2" diameter and 66" long.I would say it's the Chinese white veriety not the American red.50% of the knots I may be able to cut out and a short section will need to be straightened.The knots don't appear to go too deepWhen bows let go on knots it's fairly nasty and one experience I don't wish to repeat.Just thought It would be nice to give this piece of mulberry a second life rather than go to land fill.OSR

OSR? GLAD TO SEE YOU BACK! Hope that someone can offer up ideas about the Mulberry stave. BLESSED BE! BATMAN

Here is some pictures.I have also thought about only using part of the limb by cutting it down its length and splicing the two halves together or make a carriage bow.That way I can illuminate the bend in the stave and make a longer bow than 66"

The best way to deal with knots is to bring them to the same growth ring as the rest of the stave and to leave extra width; that is let them swirl like a brook going around a rock.

Also, when tillering leave the knitted area slightly stiffer than there sot of the limb. Jawge

Pearly any thoughts/suggestions?

I have no experience with the white variety, only red. I have read a time or two that the white isn't good wood. That being said, Id try it if I were you. Like George said, the knots need to be on the same ring and free of cracks and rot. Being a sapling you probably wont have the option to leave width, rather leave them very slightly stiffer, only slightly. You dont want every knot to be a stiff spot with a hinge on each side. A good rule of thumb is to keep it as long as possible when in doubt of a woods tenacity. Have fun and think it through as you go, I'll bet you make a bow.

Like the suggestion of making it as long as I can and I may just cut it in half lengthways and splice it This would let me utilize the best part of the limb.As it is now I am looking at a maximum length of about 66" with a bent section that will need straightening.The straightest part has the smaller knots and fewer in number too,I have had my best results with bows starting at about 72" They don't always stay that length but I get a feel for the particular piece of wood.Once I convince myself the wood is fairly good and can take it .I then progressively shorten it 1" or 2" at a time.I only draw 26 1/2" with long bows any way.OSR

I treat knots like George said. I was thinking the same as Pearl said. I've never worked the white but have heard it's not as good. Actually I haven't worked mulberry at all. I have a couple staves curing that I plan on trying this winter. Only one way to find out. Seems like 66" should be long enough but longer sure gives you more wiggle room and less stress if you get everything moving. It's hard to tell for sure but looks a bit narrow to rip down the middle and splice together. Especially if it has knots. Is a ring already chased? If not by the time you chase a ring it will get even narrower. I'm thinking if it were me I'd go with 66" and keep the width to go around knots. I'd at least chase a ring before I made the decision to rip it length ways. Best of luck to you and hope those family problems go away. Post some pictures of your progress.

Bjrogg

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