I just cut some red oak staves and sealed ends with paint...never did red oak.....any and all tips in design and exspeariances with red oak..?....I was thinking 66"50- 55#@28"...3"@fades -1\2" tips pyramid style..?....any input welcome..?...thanks.... ?? Snake

I would add 4" to the length and go with it.

Ok pearl....there @ 70" as is...so I can add a few...?

68" ntn, 2 in fades, 4 in handle, 1.75-2 in wide. Jawge

Just hit them with some industrail bug spray too...quick even coat all over.. I have a beautiful straight hickory tree to get next off the farm I'm hunting in Mason NH.......asked farmer he said ok have it....I'm making him a bow in return.....the tree is pencil straight hardly any branches....I'll get a dozen bows easy out of it, it's 12" at base and 40' tall.....going too stock up hayloft for future Mystic Series by Rattlesnake Hill Archery.....I have some pieces for overlays and tips ..Live Oak from the Mayflower Two tall ship being redone in Mystic Seaport Conn.. schedule finish is 2020....my godfather is volenteer I got some scraps from The Mayflower itself........keep your eyes peeled in future....these will be limited.....thanks.. ?? Snake

I've heard that red oak can be sluggish..???....ide really enjoy some reports on red oak preformance as a selfbow.?...I will give my full report when complete...staves green now..

It has a tendency to take excess set, which makes for a sluggish bow. Any over worked/under designed wood will be sluggish. Keep it long and wide and you can combat that. Temper it if you choose to. It can help it hold its shape and zip.

You know pearl as I age, a little graceful set or string follow really isn't a bad thing...as long as it's graceful and even...in fact kinda sexy in a weird way.....I used to hate any set and preferred reflex, but selfbows take set depending on moisture in air , materials, and proper slow tiller...we all strive for as less as possible.... preformance speaking but a well designed properly tillered selfbow is a pleasure too shoot and hunt with....I appreciate everyone's opinions.!

Some of my quickest bows were made from red oak boards. Not much set either. It's all about the design. You can't use osage dimensions for red oak. Jawge

Thanks jawge...!....stay in touch.. appreciate it..!will let you know how build goes... ?? Snake

Just got suggestion too strip bark now for ease of stripping..great tip....I've done it with maple and some other woods....I like easy...thanks pearl.!

Navajo friend tried always to carry two vine oak bows in his bow quiver...explained that was because one of them was backup for the one that was going to break.

These were a trunk this morning...I cut it a week ago...how's that Pearl.?...down to at last half cambium...thinking of chasing second ring it's an 1\8"...first good ring.?

Painted ends and light linseed oiled back...

If you can get the cambium off clean and not hurt the back, Id say go for it. You dont want to chase rings on it if you dont have to.

I assume you'll back it? Or will it be a ring followed selfbow?

I'm going for ring followed self bow....they are my fav...each piece of wood is a learning curve...I didn't want to get run- out, oak is stringy so I left some cambium...my draw knife is too Sharpe...I'll go too scrapers next and establish back....not for about a year though...there going too bed in the hay loft for now...banking them.. ??

Peel off the bark. Most of the cambium should come with it. You can leave some on. Then you will be looking at the back of you bow. I've found that a lot of the cambium will come off easily as the stave dries. Watch the backs closely you may have to stain and seal the back if it starts to crack. Jawge

Did you get a closeup picture of the end grain/rings?

I squared ends on my Makita chop saw...the Summer ring was 1\16" the season we are in...the one under that was a good 1\8"+ then a shy 1\8" on second ring , and third was 3\16"....so my plan will be switch too scraper and go for that first 1\8" ring.....for now they season complete..

Late to this party, but pyramid is best imho, 66" ntn, 2-1/2" or more wide at the fades, a hair over 1/2" thick and 1/2" to 3/8" wide at the nocks. Your thought of 3" at fades is not out of line.

Be sure it's dry before tillering. In July in Massachusetts, you'll have to work to get it dry enough until the humidity drops in the fall. If you want to start as soon as possible, thin the limbs of one stave down to 3/4" or so now, but don't put the stave in a hot dry place or in the wind. Give it a month or so just standing in the garage before trying to speed things up.

You have enough staves there to experiment, so I'd start on one as I've suggested.

Thanks Jim valuable info...the knowledge here is endless..I Truely appreciate everyone's input..!.....

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