Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


prep before applaying min-wax poly

Messages posted to thread:
jerseyman 29-Jun-18
Kodiak 29-Jun-18
Brad Lehmann 29-Jun-18
MStyles 29-Jun-18
M60gunner 29-Jun-18
nrthernrebel05 29-Jun-18
Brad Lehmann 29-Jun-18
Phil Magistro 29-Jun-18
Nemah 29-Jun-18
Sailor 30-Jun-18
Riverwolf 30-Jun-18
Dogman 30-Jun-18
MStyles 30-Jun-18
Sailor 30-Jun-18
jerseyman 14-Sep-18
RonG 14-Sep-18
TB 14-Sep-18
nrthernrebel05 14-Sep-18
mahantango 15-Sep-18
N. Y. Yankee 15-Sep-18
fdp 15-Sep-18
mahantango 16-Sep-18
From: jerseyman
Date: 29-Jun-18




I'm ready to apply the final finish to my renegade recurve refinish and I'm using min-wax poly what do you use to clean before applying the min-wax?

From: Kodiak
Date: 29-Jun-18




Some guys use a tack cloth, I just wipe it down real good with a cotton sock and then let'r rip.

Steel wool between coats enough to knock down imperfections.

Personally I like minwax the best. It's idiot proof, and I'm an idiot.

From: Brad Lehmann
Date: 29-Jun-18




You can use the stout (95%?) rubbing alcohol or acetone.

From: MStyles
Date: 29-Jun-18




I use acetone or naptha, steel wool after that, then wipe it down real well with acetone or naptha, then the min-wax.

From: M60gunner
Date: 29-Jun-18




Wipe it down with Acetone or the DNA. Tack cloths can contain stuff to inhibit the finish from sticking. Great for getting off dust and such but may leave a residue. After your satisfied with the number of coats of miniwax let it cure for a a couple weeks. Then come back and rub it out with 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper and fine rubbing compound.

From: nrthernrebel05
Date: 29-Jun-18




I sand between coats, using 1500 grit for the last two coat. I use denatured alcohol. Leaves no residue and doesn't attack the finish like acetone does. This is for the gloss finish.

From: Brad Lehmann
Date: 29-Jun-18




I don't use anything other than water when sanding between coats. I don't care for steel wool either. It has oil on it and also leaves behind tiny little hairs that will screw up an otherwise great refinish. Wetsand, wipe, blow out any pores with compressed air. I also bought a box of the cheap plastic food handler gloves to keep fingerprints from getting on prepared surfaces. I don't use them when sanding, but once it is ready for finish the gloves go on.

From: Phil Magistro
Date: 29-Jun-18




I sand and wipe the bow with alcohol followed by a tack cloth. Been doing it that way for decades and haven’t had any problems with any finish. I do wear blue nitrile gloves when much of the time I’m doing any refinishing but especially when finishing.

From: Nemah
Date: 29-Jun-18




I use a lot of exotic woods, and denatured alcohol or acetone can create serious problems with colors running . Just finish sand your bow, then inspect every inch with a magnifying glass. Then sand it again. I finish with a fine Scotchbrite pad. A light wipe with a tack cloth will remove unwanted dust. I spray Minwax semigloss oil based poly from a rattle can. Light coats! Minimum 4 coats, about 30-40 minutes between coats. LET IT DRY FOR 72 HOURS! Then inspect for flaws. If you find some areas you are not happy with, Scotchbrite the entire bow, not just the problem spots, tack, and spray on 2-3 more light coats. Wait another 72 hours. Repeat till you smile at your finish. Good luck! Richard

From: Sailor
Date: 30-Jun-18




I make my own tack clothes out of the same finish I am going to use to finish the project. I just dab a little of the finish on a clean cloth enough to make it tacky. It cant interfere with the finish because it is the same thing.

From: Riverwolf
Date: 30-Jun-18




Usually many of us read such threads , take in the information and proceed with said project ....Just wanted to say "THANK YOU" to the gents on this thread and the countless before and after for sharing your experience and knowledge .

One of the best things about this site is the camaraderie and sharing ;)

From: Dogman
Date: 30-Jun-18




MinWax also makes a sanding sealer in a can that you can use first of those open cell woods and oily wood that where poly will not cure out.

From: MStyles
Date: 30-Jun-18




Good advice Dogman.

From: Sailor
Date: 30-Jun-18




Beware of sanding sealers. They have zinc stearate (soap) added to make them soft and easy to sand but is not real good for adhesion of you next coat. If you put a hard finish, like lacquer, over a soft finish, like sanding sealer, you are more apt to have cracks develop in the finish. If you want to seal the wood dewaxed shellac is much better.

From: jerseyman
Date: 14-Sep-18




Hi guys I have a question on a Ben Pearson Renegade recurve 60" 45# at 28.I just refinished it and would like to know what string length and brace height should be for this bow I searched the internet for suggestions but no concrete answers.Thanks Ron

From: RonG
Date: 14-Sep-18




Brad Lehmann has it exactly.

Just for info, I used trichloroethane for degreaser at the space center, that stuff would suck the oil out of a human body in seconds, can't be purchased anymore, Trichloroethylene is the much safer version.

Just thought I would let you know what was out there.

PS: don't use water on the bare wood, just between coats of finish and I usually put on three coats before I start sanding with water, I don't use water all the time it depends on what I want for the end results, the water keeps the grain in the sand paper unglogged and it will cut faster.

Nemah, has another great method, the scotchbrite pad polishes the wood also, never use steel wool.

Phil Magistro on the nitrile gloves has a great idea. Use them they will save your liver.

From: TB Professional Bowhunters Society - Qualified Member
Date: 14-Sep-18




Not to change the subject of this particular post but I have been reading refinishing tips for a long time and have made lots of notes from the info on the LW but was wondering if anyone has written a book or published any info specific to refinishing bows with maybe some step by step info to help out a beginner?

From: nrthernrebel05
Date: 14-Sep-18




Yeah I used Trichlor back in the 70's for cleaning jewel bearings. The kind that used to be in good watches. VERY BAD stuff. I'm surprised I haven't gotten cancer from it. You have to be careful with the acetone fumes and others too. Need to at least have good venation.

From: mahantango
Date: 15-Sep-18




Jerseyman, try 57" B50 or 56" for FF type.

From: N. Y. Yankee
Date: 15-Sep-18




DO NOT USE "RUBBING ALCOHOL". It has oil in it and can mess up a finish. Use 91% alcohol or HEAT gas line dryer. It's 100% alcohol or darn close. You just need to remove dirts and fingerprints etc. Be careful if wiping over stains and paints, it will remove them.

From: fdp
Date: 15-Sep-18




I stopped using steel wool between coats of finish. I found out that it's virtually impossible not to get small slivers of the steel wool in the finish somewhere. I use 800 or 1200 grit sand paper, or even an old brown paper bag instead.

From: mahantango
Date: 16-Sep-18




X2 on the steel wool. I like fine Scotchbrite pads.





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