I've heard that it starts to crack over time. How long does it usually last? I was going to purchase some arrows dipped in lacquer and never had that finish before. Thanks.

There is a huge difference between gasket lacquer and regular lacquer. Gasket lacquer doesn't become part of the shaft it just lays on the surface, regular lacquer will soak into the wood pores and cling to it.

Bob

I have finished a lot of wood, in years past with lacquer. Never thought of it as an outdoor finish. It's old chemistry. Lots of finishes these days that are much superior. Life span of lacquer, depends of how much UV exposure and moisture it will see. Polyurethane or marine varnish is a better option, conversion varnish or epoxy finish, would be the best.

Bob is exactly right i never liked it for that reason . i always use automotive lacquer which works for me just takes a few coats to buildup a smooth finish . i had most of my clear given to me because car guys do not want the stuff anymore .

You want the finish into the wood not just on the wood . poly works nice a lot less stink than lacquer . between burning feathers and lacquer smell before i had a my own shop away from my house my wife was always one step from calling the divorce lawyer . well not really she just hated those smells

Mine lasted for a couple of years...but the losses were due to other arrow realities.

The argument FOR gasket lacquer is/was one coat, perfectly smooth, over and done.

I have arrows that are 15 years old that were dipped in Gasket Lacquer and they still look good.

I have been using gasket lacquer since it came out. I like it. If the gasket gets worn out, it will put the lacquer on too thick and will crack over time. If it doesn't stick to the wood, the stain on the wood probably isn't compatible. I don't think it is a true lacquer because you thin it with acetone instead of lacquer thinner.

Also it doesn't have much odor so I can use it in the garage without my wife complaining.

Another thing, GL likes to warm, over 70*. I tried thinning it once on a cold day to get it done. Finish cracked a few weeks later. Even in sunny San Diego I would put the tube in the sun for awhile until it flowed good. Keep some broken arrows for test purposes.

Conversion varnish is good i used it on a few bows . Sherwin Williams makes it Campbell makes it . dries hard and fairly fast but all those are tricky in high humidity .

This is my understanding from a arrow maker that made countless arrows a year. The early GL was great stuff, we never had problems with it, then they changed the formula and cracking was common, often within a few days.

I got where I hated the stuff, cracking and not the least bit waterproof. If I left and arrow under the grass in the yard for a couple of days and then found it the finish would be toast.

I wouldn't use it on a dare now after all the problems I had with it.

I used gasket lacquer since it came out and liked it. I have a few of the arrows i made with it in the early days and they still look good. However, as eric said, they apparently changed the formula a few years ago. I struggled with it and found that, if you're very careful, and if temperature and humidity are just right, you can still get it to work, but it's just not worth it to me any more. I have given up on it and use other finishes, mainly Danish oil and water-based acrylic. They are slower and not as convenient, but more durable and much more forgiving.

i have used some poly minwax it works good but takes a while to dry .

I don't think they changed the formula, just changed the manufacturer when 3 Rivers bought out Waterloo Archery(originator).

The cracking issue is two fold. #1, Gasket Lacquer is not waterproof-it is water resistant to a point. 2. If applying one or two coats it is not enough. The viscosity of GL direct from can is so thick and the gasket hole so tight that one can not get enough coverage with 1-2 coats.

Solution, thin GL with lacquer Thinner or Acetone or better yet go to your local store and buy a quart of nitrocelleous lacquer, which is what GL is. The store bought lacquer will be much thinner. Mix equal parts which will thin the viscosity, make it easier to withdraw thru the gasket and allow the proper coverage.

IT TAKES 5-7 COATS OF THINNED DOWN GASKET LACQUER WITH ADEQUATE CURING TIME BETWEEN EACH 2-3 COATS in order to get a good finish.

Still after all this it will not be waterproof like Polyurethane or varnish but it will last longer and not crack, unless left outside to the weather.

The cracking issue comes from two things, not being waterproof and not enough thinner coats. Moisture gets thru the GL into the wood, which expands when absorbing moisture. Expansion equals cracking.

I too have arrows done a decade or more ago with still good finish on them. They've been stored in 50% humidity or less and have not been left outside or in humid places.

It still is the fastest finish and the least resistant to target burn.

My experience is similar to Kelly's.

Kelly what type of store would carry the nitrocelleous lacquer?

I just found some poc arrows I made in 2003/04 and finished with gasket lacquer. They are not as "crisp" and shiney but still look good enough.

My recent experiences are not as good so going to try thinning mine.

Lowes, Home Depot, Menards and some of the larger ACE type Hardware Stores. Home Depot was the first place I found it many years ago. Sometimes known as finishing lacquer.

If you can't find it Lacquer Thinner or Acetone will work and may even be more cost effective.

I. am going to try whey poly that I found. No smell and they use on floors. Can't be too bad. will let you know how I make out.

Same proportion 50/50?

I brush on one coat of lacquer. I don't hunt or shoot in the rain and the finish lasts till the arrow breaks or gets lost. I buy a it in a can. Sometimes, I'll steel wool the first coat and put on a second. Looks a little shinier that way, but doesn't shoot any better.

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