After my first Cascade developed a delam, I'm leery and wanted to ask about this.

I scored a second Shakespeare Cascade that's in very good condition, but had not been shot by the previous owner.

On the back of the riser on the right side, there's a portion of the maple lamination that has a line running down it that can barely be felt by a fingernail. The rest of the finish is smooth over the lams.

Is this a potential Crack developing, or no big deal? Fill with super glue?

First pic is the line itself, second pic is the area on the riser.

I'm assuming no big deal but like I said, this is round two with this type of bow and perhaps my 29" draw length is too much for a 50" bow.

Thanks.

I can’t tell from the pic

Second pic.

Sorry, very hard to photograph.

Sorry, very hard to photograph.

I can't see it either. You can take the picture and save it to your desk top, then open it, click edit and draw a circle around the troubled spot.

But yes, 29" is too much for a 50" bow for a number of reasons.

Well for 1 it's being drawn 58% of its length. Which not only adds tremendous stress to the bow in spite of the deflex that's built in, it also creates a string angle that leads to pretty poor efficiency.

Here's an extreme closeup. Looks like the glue line is kind of trough-like but not separated that I can see.

Forgot about using upside down binoculars as a microscope.

I can't make out what's what from the pictures either. It appears to be in the riser above the working part of the limbs. Soooo I would fill it with glue and drive on. EXCEPT I agree 29" draw is to much for a 50" bow unless it is a unique design like a horse bow.They tend to fail. >>>----> Ken

It is in a non-flexing part of the riser. My initial concern was that if it was the start of a delam that it would migrate to the fade.

I shoot the bow as well as my others fwiw.

If you are drawing it that far you are stressing it. Will it hold up maybe. Will you break another one Maybe. It is your bow to do as you please with. >>>----> Ken

It doesn't look very bad. I'd drop some super glue in it and not worry.

"engineer or good at math"...lol, calculators have % functions now.

Just an FYI, I draw 30". Every bow I had under 58" had the glass splinter. It could be just bad luck, but my feeling was overdrawing the bow.

S -

One idea. Gut reaction is it "should" be fine, but I've shown stuff like that to bowyers who refused to do anything with it.

Suggestions:

1. Wall hanger.

2. Mark the ends of the delamination. You can use a felt tiped pen of just completely cover the separation with masking tape. If it travels, you'll know immediately.

3. Use Loc-tite 420 and let it wick into the separation, clamp, if possible. Go back to #2 and keep your fingers crossed.

Viper out.

I’m a big fan of the Shakespeare Cascade. Being a “Broadbow”, with 2 1/2” wide limbs at the widest part of the limbs, I believe they can handle the stress of 29”. I had four, now I only have 2. They only failure I’ve ever seen on a Cascade was at the Kalamazoo Expo. I was checking out a 45# Cascade from Lonnie Collins table. At my full draw, 28”, the upper limb, belly side delaminated from the shelf, up 2” higher than the sight window. It could have been fixed.

What Mr. Styles says. ANY uber-short bow puts higher stress at the fades. But they were designed for it. Yes, a 1/2 century of use and possible neglect can take a toll (which I can confirm just by looking at myself in a mirror {grin}).

But from the photos I can't really see anything scary. Do what the guys suggest and shoot away.

Rick R.

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