From: Arrow49
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Date: 20-May-18 |
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Noticed I need to reattach my Stotler bow tip overlays that were put on some 20 years ago. Made of fossilized whale bone by a friend in Alaska, I don't want to lose them. What would be the preferred glue to do this? They are currently detached from my bow.
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From: PEARL DRUMS
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Date: 20-May-18 |
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You will get a dozen answers, probably wont help you a bit. I use Loctite Professional, Glass or self bows, any material.
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From: Bjrogg
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Date: 20-May-18 |
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Like Pearl said. Everyone has their favorite
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From: Osage Outlaw
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Date: 20-May-18 |
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I always use loctite superglue. I've never had a failure. Some people use epoxy. I've never tried that.
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From: 4nolz@work
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Date: 20-May-18 |
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I really like the blue top gorilla glue cya gel it seems more impact resistant than regular cya.
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From: fdp
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Date: 20-May-18 |
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I use what ever I have. I've used G-2 Epoxy, T-88, Devcon 2 Hour from Lowe's, and super glues as well. Never had a failure. But doing it correctly by preparing the surfaces correctly is the biggest key to success.
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From: badger
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Date: 20-May-18 |
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Nocks don't seem to be one of those things prone to popping off. Any good adhesive and good preparation will work. I use most of the ones mentioned above. I also use Tightbond III.
When shaping the nock I think it is important to make sure that it doesn't overhang the limb material in such a way as to take the first hit if you were to drop it a couple of inches on to a hard surface. Doing this will separate the cheap glues from the good epoxies. If I am fashioning an overhanging nock I will only use epoxy.
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From: Longtrad
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Date: 20-May-18 |
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I have talked to a few bowyers that use the blue cap gorilla superglue
cheap and easy to to find
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From: Arrow49
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Date: 20-May-18 |
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Thanks for the replays. I really appreciate this site.
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From: Bowbaker
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Date: 20-May-18 |
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I prefer Smooth On but, if in a hurry I use blue top gorilla glue no problems with either.
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From: fdp
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Date: 20-May-18 |
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Guys...if you use G-2, or T-88 you don't need the heat. T-88 is considerably stronger than EA-40, and much easier to get. Any Woodcraft franchise store sells it.
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From: Nemah
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Date: 20-May-18 |
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Smooth On for me. Richard
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From: RobertFl
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Date: 21-May-18 |
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Wouldn't fossilized whale bone be made of minerals and not the actual bone? I took a Geology class and lab many years ago at College and seem to remember bone fossils are where the actual bone is replaced by minerals. I have seen pics of fossilized whale bone carving
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From: RobertFl
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Date: 21-May-18 |
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After prepping the glue joints with 60 or 80 grit sand paper..I think Smooth On would be a good choice but I usually use Blue Top Gorilla Glue for wood, glass and phenolic tips.
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From: Arrow49
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Date: 21-May-18 |
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Getting those overlays on in the next few days. Again - great site and appreciate the responses.Almost feel like I'm back in Alaska with all of the great advice! But I do love Apalachicola also.,!
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From: bodymanbowyer
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Date: 21-May-18 |
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Smooth on,two ton epoxy and gorilla gel super glue, for me. Most of the time it's smooth on. Time tested and it works great. JF
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From: Arvin
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Date: 23-May-18 |
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Bowyers CA glue. Arvin
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From: Jeff Durnell
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Date: 23-May-18 |
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Smooth On for me... with horn or antler the surfaces are prepped with a fine toothed toothing plane blade, cured with a shop light near it for warmth.
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From: Bassman
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Date: 31-May-18 |
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I use liquid steel if i am in a hurry ,and smooth on if am not in a hurry for my bows.If i build a bow for someone i use nothing but smooth on.
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From: Tim Finley
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Date: 31-May-18 |
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Bone is like antler its not going to stay on long it contracts and expands with temps and moisture . Use epoxy it will give a longer life than super glues .Superglues are the holy grail on hear for bow repair but they have a short life . I have heard good things about the Brownells accu glass very tough stuff I have not tried it and I don't think it is clear in color its what they use to bed gun barrels in stocks . It might work good on bone .
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