These were shot@ fifteen yards about four sets and the out come was about the same. These are carbon express 700,medallions. Should I back up to twenty or nip a .25 " off the ends? 80-90 gr. points @ 40 >lbs DW.

Dang which way does the picture go? You are good enough to back up to 20. Good shooting. >>>----> Ken

I add a bit of weight to match the fletching. Especially with vanes. Wraps of tape or shrink tube.

Yea pics from cell phones seem to come out side ways.

Just make sure you hold the camera in landscape mode.

I’ve found (when cropping other pics) that the system defaults to setting the longest dimension of the image as horizontal...

As to your shooting, I would...

1) Change the target to a vertical stripe

2) Back up to 20 and then maybe even to 25

3) Expect to have to shorten them a bit anyway

Off to a darn fine start, I’d say!

I did cut them .5" and the fletched shafts are flying good,I lowered the nock point and got the bare shafts to hit close to the same horizontal plain as the fletched ones. The bare shafts are still showing weak but I ran out of day light.So my plan is to pick it up tomorrow and shoot a few more rounds and then decide to trim again. Current shaft lenght is 30".

Sorry I got here too late.

I would never have cut them. UNLESS you just want shorter arrows.

.700 spine carbons spine 45lbs. AMO.

I don't see where you mentioned the bow you are shooting them out of however.

Rather than cutting the arrows, you would have been far better off to have built out the sideplate of the bow 1/16" at a time. You accomplish the same thing, and you have more arrow shaft in the future if you chhose to shoot the arrows out of another bow.

And do as GF suggested and ditch the target face and shoot at a vertical line. And as other said....back up.

Medatail left big timellion XR 700 .700" 6 .233" 31" .187". Shooting a Spigarilli BB with med.RC woods.At31.5" the bare shafts are flying almost side ways weak.Shooting a spig zt flipper rest and plunger.

Then just decrease the centershot until they fly straight. Start with the arrows dead center of the limb and string and work from there.

If they impact right of the vertical line decrease centershot, if the impact left of the vertical line increase centershot.

Then if they won't tune you can move to cutting them but it isn't likely you'll have to do that.

Got it will do

Not to hijack the thread, so a 1-word answer will do... but when my arrows kick tail high and dive for the ground, I need to move my NP ____.

THX!

Okay here is where I'm @ the deceasing of center shot after two & three quarters turns.Should I call this a done deal fletch and increase center shot to adjust for stiff?

This is what it looks like @ twenty yards with out bare shafts

Twenty five yards

No, don't stop there. Decrease the centershot a little more, and then shoot fletched and bare together. You are too close to optimum tune to stop at this point. It doens't take much change to move bareshafts.

The decrease in centershot will move the bare shaft. And the fletched won't be affected due to the fletching.

Shoot the bare shaft from at least 20 yards with the fletched.

Okay will have to wait till week end work thank God has to get in the way,lol.

Ken Beck has a great Youtube video on bare shaft texting.

Bill C nailed it. If you haven't seen it Ken Beck gives away the keys to the bare-shaft-tuning castle.

Okay Frank I think I,m there.

Dayum!

I have always shot split finger with a saker one tab ,but when I got this ILF recurve I decided to try shooting three under.So I bought a Rick Barbee three under tab & have been shooting it for two days now while tuning these carbon express medallion xr's and boy it's slick.I do not know much about shooting three under but it's nice to be point on @ thirty yards. Not sure how far back I can go with the point on cause I ran out of realstate.The extra speed sure takes some guess work out of (gaping)aiming. I was shooting a Wesley 66" 50 .lbs long bow @ 9.5 grs.per .lbs of DW. approx. 160ft per second.This recurve is set @ 40 .lbs and boy does it send these carbons on a ride.

Gary, Yep...I'd say you have it. Now, you need to get your vertical (up and down) worked out.

Same process as the horizontal tuning. Shoot the fletched and bare together. Adjust the string nock until the fletched and bare shafts impact together on a horizontal line.

If fletched shafts land below bare shafts, lower string nock. If they land above fletched raise the string nock.

Okay I'm on it.

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