anyone know, where I can get some of these arrows? thanks in advance

Lancaster archery

thanks

Bowhunter super store. or Black widow or Lancaster

You do know that 1916 and 1916 Superlights are the same, don't you?

The superlight name was used as a promo when speed was king. Anything under a certain wall thickness became superlight overnight.

No I did not know that,,,,,, yesterday went to an archery shoot, tried to find a arrow that would shoot well out of my long bow, this was the arrow,,,,,,,,,,,, My surgery and wiring, inside of me, really shortened my draw length

so I can only pull back so far, and get a clean and accurate release,,,,, I am down to a 40lb long bow and getting only 35 lbs out of it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

but I can still hunt, just have to keep my shots at 10 yards no more than 15, for good penetration......

the aluminum just works well of my shelf............

1916 is 1916, and monikers don't change the size. And actually they are not super light at all, carbons are when it comes to gpi. 19/64th diameter, .016 wall thickness and 10 grains per inch is pretty potent weight in itself.

I use them to foot my FMJ 400.

Were the 1916s the lightest that you shot?

I draw a bit less than 28”; more in the 26.5”-27” range, and I’m shooting 1916s (+125) cut to 28” (BOP) out of a #55. 1816s out of #50. Both of these are pretty modern LBs, and the #50 is about as quick as they come.

So at #35, you might want to drop down a size or two yet. Depends on your shelf, string, limb profile, etc. For me, the 1916s at around net #50 may actually be borderline weak; they shoot fine (bareshaft) out to 15-16 yards, but I had a couple of shots at 20 or 25 that broke hard right, so I have a bit more testing to do there....

Good news is that you can buy the Tributes (or Jazz, if you prefer purple) for $3/shaft at Lancaster and test to your heart’s content. You can get those in any diameter you like, so long as it’s XX16.

Good luck with your comeback!

thanks guys..... no I have realized after my surgery, that with all the weight training and swimming, it is what it is, so my shooting distance now, will be 15 yards and under,,,,, at the weight I am shooting.....

I was shooting out of a Black Hunter longbow with bamboo limbs and custom Flemish string,,,,, very enjoyable bow to shoot,,,,,

I shot a lot of arrows and the 1916 XX75 with a 125 grain head, shot like a dime,,,,,,,,shot even better with a 100 grain bh,,,,

this will work, but its a close quarter set up,,,,,,I like double bevel heads that are scary sharp

Footed Shaft

1916's will be good as far as you can shoot them. ))

X2 for "The Footed Shaft" in Rochester, MN. They have a great online store.

Well, if nothing else… I did establish for myself today that the 1916 definitely is weak for the RER.…

Guess I’ll see how they do out of the Bamboo Viper Before I go and do anything else with them…. A 2114 with 145 up front seems to fly pretty well, but that’s with 5 inch helicals on it, so probably not quite there yet!

Hold on a bit. 1916 should not be weak for your bow weight and draw length. More likely it might be a bit stiff, and 1816 with 100 grain points might be better for you.

So I suggest you do further testing and not move up to an even stiffer shift. 2114s will be much too stiff and too heavy. For sure. I shoot both of them a lot with heavier bows and a long draw. - lbg

What lenght? I have a bunch.

LBG-

I’m inclined to agree with you. I was surprised myself, having been so leased at having dialed 3 different bows into 1816s, 1916s and 2016s.... but when a bare shaft suddenly starts hitting the target a foot or two to the right of fletched, what’s a guy to conclude?

Before I do anything, I’m going to put a new piece of leather on the shelf, dial in the height of my nocking point (I didn’t measure, but I suspect it has migrated up the string a bit) and give the bare shafts another go at the longer distances. As mentioned earlier, the 1916s had been flying pretty as a picture at 15 in the back yard, but either 15 yards is just not quite enough time for the weakness to show, or some dynamic has changed a bit.

Interestingly enough, 1916 are 10 GPI and 2114 are 9.9, so @28”, my arrows would really only change by the point weight.

Makes me wonder about 2013s to split the difference between 1916 and 2016, but I suspect those would have a pretty short life expectancy on a 3D course... at least with me shooting them!

Good thing that enough fletching can mask a lot of excess spine....

I'm still baffled that 1916's fly well from a short drawn 35# bow. Maybe if the arrows are 4' long.

I have the same bow, Black Hunter, 45# @ 28". I'm drawing 27". My 28" BOP 1916's w/125gr pts. fly decently. But a 1816 flys perfectly.

First thing I'd do before buying arrows would be to step back further than 15 yards and really see what's happening. Shoot 40 yards or so to get a good view of the flight. Things happen too fast at only 15yd.

Red that is good advice,,, but I did shoot the 1816' and they kicked a little compared to the 1916's...... 20 yards and in is okay for me, I do not shoot deer, rarely beyond my 15 yard comfort zone......

I have not missed much in the last 5 years, keeping my distance close, and they were all buried to the fletch or a pass thru,,,,,,

so beyond 15 or so yards I don't care really,,,, My low poundage limits me, and I recognize that,,,,, shooting beyond 15 the deer get a walk..........................

I know what your are saying, by view of flight at 40, that is true, sure enough, but if you do not shoot deer, that far, what is the difference.......

My weakness is my shooting, I have to practice all the time, I am a fair shooter, my strength, is knowing how to set up on deer, and most of my spots are dead on, and the shot is close

What's the difference? The difference is a perfectly straight flying arrow vs an arrow that is kicking sideways in flight. The distance you plan to take a hunting shot is meaningless.

You will always get better penetration when all the arrows energy is moving forward.

Good luck.

Okay, that is a good point,,,, thanks Red

I agree on the 1816 being better suited. I use 1916's on 48-52# bows and draw 27". Need to get the best arrow flight possible, even at 15 yards.

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