Hello all, I finally shot a carbon arrow- Goldtip Entrada 600 cut at 28" bop. My bow was a 42 # @ 26" SF longbow . I fletched with 3" feathers (shield cut) I tested it out to 10 -15 yards . First shot, boom! Right smack in the bullseye. Subsequent shots were not bad either . However I saw an noticeable nock left On the target . That is ,the nock end was angled in to the target not dramatically but to the left of the impact point. Overall the arrows were closer together in a 20" circle. Overspined, right? So I want to get a couple more test arrows same spine 600 cut to 28 1/2 & 29 inches bop. Also some points weighing 150 grains 25 more gr than I was shooting. I really like carbons as they have a smaller diameter which puts them closer to centershot. They are very quick and reportedly less prone to bending as with aluminum. I never thought I'd ever shoot carbons -not traditional. But man ,the flight and hitting the center is very pretty. Lancaster Archery was very good in loading the order and they appear to have their shit together albeit hi tech.

I would appreciate feedback from those of you who shoot carbons . Should I go to 700's ?150 gr points ok? I do not want an arrow that overhangs too much . 29 inches would be the limit(?) Thanks!

If you are shooting right handed a nock left would indicate a weak arrow reaction. As others will tell you watch more so where the arrow impacts. Set a vertical line up down your target and shoot that line with fletched and bareshafts---if you bareshafts are impacting to the right of your fletched shafts your arrows are showing weak (again this for right handed shooters). Ken Beck video on youtube is great video on bareshaft tuning. Before you buy any shafts I would really work to see what is going on. Sent you a PM.

Pm sent.

Correction :my arrows were hitting inside a 10 inch circle not 20inch . Lol.

Don’t take this the wrong way, but to be honest, IMHO - and in this case the H is for humblED - if you’re not grouping well inside of 10” at 10-15 yards, the bare- shafting exercise will likely produce more frustration than insight.

It can be pretty humbling (hence my earlier aside)...

You’ve really got to know exactly where that arrow is pointed when you let it go, so JMO, if you don’t have a fully conscious aiming system, you’re really wasting your time.

So my advice is to not sweat it too much until you’re accurate enough that you’re seriously willing to believe that it might be a spine problem holding you back.

I would have someone stand behind you with their phone in slow-mo video mode and record a few shots over your shoulder. If you see the nock end consistently kicking to one side, then diagnose from there if it’s a major event, but if the arrow straightens up quickly, you’re probably plenty close enough for the time being...

And FWIW, I just happen to own a high-performance LB which I’m shooting at comparable poundage, and a 28” BOP Entrada 600 tipped with 125 grains will bare-shaft right down the middle. Degree of centershot on your riser definitely figures in, but I’m going to guess that you are more than close enough unless you’re talking about a Hill-style/ASL.

So take that for what it’s worth.

The nock angled away from the bow (nock left) indicates a stiff spine. The impact left, right thing works fine if you have a mechanical aiming method, but if you are an instinctive shooter, the nock angle is a better indicator. I also use the GT Entrada 600 in my 41# at 28" draw recurve. Mine are cut 28.5" (shaft length). I have used the GT weight system. Screwing weights into the insert has worked great for me, and with 50g behind the insert and a 150g point makes my arrows about 400g total weight and gives perfect flight.

Try 3 full length arrows and a tip test kit and work from there. I prefer 125 grain tips so i tune my arrow accordingly for the broadheads and judos that i already have on hand. Whatever you have do do to achieve the weight/ arriw length you prefer to work with that shoots well for you.

my full lenth gt 600 is 30.5" 5" helicle shoot well with all my bows and my friends with longer draws and more pounds. just by changing point wte. when I go for shorter arrows I drop to 800s and load up the front. my dl is shorter than yours...ron

Just remember - Your Mileage May Vary.

I’m shooting bullets at essentially the same draw weight, using 28” with 125 up front.... and Shawn says you'll have to go 1/2” longer and nearly double the point weight.

Hmmmmm....

What was that Brian was saying about full-length shafts and a test kit?

Yeah , and the way I understand it is nocks left from An RH shooter means an over spined arrow . Correct? In which case I go up in overall length and /or Load with more weight .. just my understanding . I am new to carbons

You've already been told nock left is too stiff and too weak. So.... who do you believe? :^)

Nock left would tend to indicate a weak arrow for a RH shooter. Having said that, I NEVER trust nock orientation for tuning. I always arrow and bare shaft group tune. I take care of the up/down first, then work on spine.

That's why I posted the chart. Bare shaft and arrow group tuning is quick, easy and you get immediate feedback. Even a grossly stiff or weak arrow will fly down the middle.

Nice at15 yds .. need to order more to make sure But many times the arrow would zip in the target this way. Some didn't due to aiming / concentration . As always I will be getting a couple more arrows and over here he next month or so I will hopefully get a clearer picture. Thanks

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