I got inspired by an idea on a thread about Stumping, and I had a few arrows that were the right sizes for the job at hand but otherwise too short and/or bent, so those became my donors.

I set them up - except for one - with one and a quarter inches of aluminum upfront, and the last half to 3/4 of an inch of the donor shaft at the rear So that I have an out- sett and a nock taper so that I can use the glue-on nocks that I have on hand.

The one at the bottom got 2 inches of aluminum because it was about 3/4 of an inch short to begin with… So that one is using the insert from the aluminum slipped over the insert that’s in the carbon - ought to be pretty beastly strong.

The shafts weren’t all exactly the same outside diameter, so I had to do a little experimenting with 2114 and 2117 shafts to get the fit just right… Or at least close enough for Jazz.

It’s a real mixed bag with a 250, a 600, a couple of 400s and a CE predator marked 4560, but I’ll put big fletchings on them and call it good enough.

Those beefed up arrows should do the trick, nice work.

James

Those will work perfect. You dont need target grade arrows. My stumpin arrows really catch hell.

Yeah....

I’ve been getting my stuff together with bare-shafting and what-not, and I can definitely see the difference that matched arrows can make when I’m shooting at 15-18 yards out back.... but on some of the high-risk 3D shots at the club, I really don’t imagine I’ll ever be able to blame a miss on an arrow.

It’ll be interesting, though, to see how well that 600 bare-shafts now that I’ve doctored it up a little.....

Hmmm.... 600 now noticeably weak for the #55@28” RER, drawn to about 27”. It was spot on for the #50 Howatt Bamboo Viper, so I guess that’s the next test...

Crazily enough, the CX Maxima Hunter 250 flies pretty much down the middle bare-shaft; it’s stiff, but not anything like I expected that it would be...

Hope to see some STUMPIN' shots!

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