From: joel0711
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Date: 13-Apr-18 |
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Trying to tune my Kodiak Hunter 45# at 28"---I pull 27.5",,,,,,Using "A" size srf site. Should I sight in with nothing but bare shafts or mix some fletched in and would you handle "off" arrows by adjustinh the SRF sight or adjusting arrow/bow??? Me confused!!
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From: Jakeemt
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Date: 13-Apr-18 |
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Bare shaft tune as normal 3 fletch shafts 3 bareshafts. One you get them impacting together you are tuned absolutely do not move the sight. It doesn’t matter where on your target they impact so long as they are all in a tight cluster.When using a sight it can be tempting to move it around for a single arrow or two. What you should look for is consitent groups. If you can put all of your fletched shafts (once tuned) in a 3 inch circle at 20 yards you can start adjusting your sight to match. Your sight should follow good solid groups otherwise you just make yourself nuts. If your grouping 6inches right and 2 high that’s fine. Pull your arrows and see if you can do it again. If you can drop that same group In the same place 3 times over you’re good to begin adjusting the sight.
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From: fdp
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Date: 13-Apr-18 |
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What Jakeemt said.
Tuning and zeroing a sight are not the same thing. Get your arrows grouping well first. HOWEVER, you HAVE to be seeing the same sight picture every shot through the sight. Draw avertical line on the target top to bottom. Center the sight on the line and shoot. Use that same sight picture for every group of arrows.
Then as Jake said, when you get bare and fletched grouping togetjer (paying no attention to nock orientation at this point) you can adjust the sight.
Just remember, if you want to move the arrows to the right, you adjust the sight to the right, if you want to move them left, move the sight left. That can get confusing some times.
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From: jrh24
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Date: 13-Apr-18 |
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What fdp said. Put a narrow strip of duct tape on your target from top to bottom, that will get your left to right set. Then run the tape horizontal to set your up and down. Don't let one arrow dictate a move. John
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From: Bowmania
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Date: 14-Apr-18 |
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This is the most important thing said. "you HAVE to be seeing the same sight picture every shot through the sight."
So the tape idea is good, but for me too much bother. I put a golf ball in from of the target and shoot with the point of the arrow on the ball.
If you have a very small gap glue a tee on the ball.
It's the only use I could ever find for a golf ball, yet golf is my favorite sport. Add all those idiots to our sport and it would be worse than it is. More preference points, shorter seasons, and more leased land. Well, that's a bit of a tangent.
Bowmania
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From: fdp
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Date: 14-Apr-18 |
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You know Todd, I don't really think that most people understand how important that secondary reference/aiming point like golf ball is when you are trying to tune a bow, or set up a sighting system.
The fact that it virtually eliminates one variable that your brain has to worry about (the gap) and makes it nearly subconscious is a really big deal.
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From: Bob Rowlands
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Date: 14-Apr-18 |
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Hopefully you aren't looking at the sight the spot the sight the spot the sight the spot etc. Just look at the spot you want to hit and shoot it, arrow after arrow. The srf sight just frames your spot in your peripheral vision, like a buckhorn sight on a muzzleloader. If they are grouping left right relative to fletched that's the arrow. Elevation is on you. Have fun/
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From: trad47
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Date: 14-Apr-18 |
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Secondary aiming seems to be a compensation for the way arrow flies i.e. pick your spot and then move the aim over a click or two to a right and lower to second spot .Release. Your arrow will usually hit the first spot. Works for me as I have a wandering left eye and tend to over-expand on the draw sometimes.This results in left hits. Subconscious memory or brain mapping call what you want.
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