Ok I traded my compound and going traditional. I picked up Palmer recurve 50 pounds at 28 inches. What spine and length arrow do I need and what weight field points. I’m a 27.5 in draw on compound. Thanks

Start with some full length 500’s. Don’t worry about tuning right now. Get a feel for it. Until you can group arrows, tuning will only frustrate you. Good luck, welcome to the classy side!

First off... Congrats on going traditional!!! As far as arrows go, do you want aluminum, carbon fiber, or wood? Each has its benefits and drawbacks.

some lose draw lenth going trad some don't. measure your d.l. n get back to us for more informed guiss :)

Carbon

JMO....

Depends on a lot of things, such as whether you have access to a cut-off saw, and what you have for a target/backstop... in addition to the make, model & year of your bow and what kind of string you have on it, etc.

Also depends whether you want to have arrows that are close to your DL or if you’re comfortable with some overhang out front.

First question: what do you have lying around? And do you have a fletching jig? To be honest, you can get away with some pretty loose tolerances, especially if you go big on the fletchings.

If you have a big, soft backstop, some 2016 aluminum would probably be right in there; in GameGetters, those are rated as 500s, and you can get them very reasonably, or you can get the Tributes, which run about $3/shaft, plus nocks and inserts.

Otherwise, 500 full-length carbons are probably as good a place to start as any.

500 spine or 600 spine will be tune. Depending on what tip weight you would like.

I already have 200 grain tips and heads a buddy gave me

If the bow is 50lbs. at 28" just figure 50lbs. at your draw length. That will be close enough. That bow likely has a low stretch material string on it, and I believe that Palmers are cut 1/8" past center. If you want to shoot 200 grain heads, get some .500 spine carbon and leave them 29" long and go shoot.

he first thing you are going to have o do is block out all of the ideas that you hear about how shooting a compound, and shooting a recurve are so different as it pertains to form. They aren't. There's going to be a HUGE difference in the way the shot feels when you hit full draw. You are going to be holding 30lbs. and not 20. And yes, it makes a difference. The shot cycle or draw is going to feel considerably different. There is no suddent stack of weight just before the cams or wheels beak over. Instead, the weight will increase for as far as you want to draw the bow. Only shoot enough shots at a time that you can come to full draw, with proper form, hold the bow at full draw, and execute a good release. Any more than that, and you will be doing more harm then good. One way to build up to the 50lbs. a little quicker, is to shoot 60lbs. And you can do that with the bow you have. Just take an exercise band, wrap it around the string, and hold the loose ends in your bow hand. Practice drawing the bow that way. Now, you won't need a heavy band to increase the weight. Get a 10lb. band if you can find it, if not go to the hardware store and buy a piece of surgical tubing. Don't worry about tuning, other than to keep the arrows on the target, don't worry about hitting anything except the backstop. If you do, you will be headed down a path that will likely cause you musch frustration, and delay your learning by many months, if not years. After you develop a feel for the how the bow draws, what your sight picture looks like, etc., then come back and ask about sighting methods.

500's with the 200grn points. I have the same draw length as you and cut my arrows to 29"s. Not telling you how long you should cut them, just letting you know what works for me.

Robbo -

Doesn't matter, seeing as you're over bowed by at least 15-20#.

Viper out.

Do you want to learn by trial and error or shorten the learning curve and get a coach?

The first thing a coach is going to tell you is, "here, try this 30 pound bow".

Right now, you may have fun shooting, but frustration will eventually set in. My opinion is that with trial and error you'd lucky to feel confident to take a 20 yard shot at a deer. With a coach you'll kill it.

Don't know of a coach in your area? Go to USA Archery and find them near you. PM me if you want to know which to weed out. Not all coaches fit what we do. But even those are better than trail and error.

Bowmania

Definitely agree with the expert/coaches, getting a 30 to 35 pound bow also would be your best for you. As far as arrows for your training bow, 700 spine black eagle outlaw shafts with 125 grain points will do well.

That is a very heavy bow to start with but 500's should be in the ballpark. I don't think you will need near that heavy a point weight with full length shafts though. As has been said when you are grouping under about 12" and are confident enough to start moving back you can get into tuning. Have fun.>>>----> Ken

Thanks guys, this is my first bow I’ve owned, but been shooting a friends 60 pound longbow off and on for a couple years. He let me borrow it on and off but didn’t want to sell. I actually harvested a doe with it but now I’m going traditional only and not sure how to set one up

Kginrick, If this guys really really strong and learning to play the piano, would he need a bigger piano?

(I can't take credit for that. It's Vipers. Not an exact quote.)

Robbo, I wouldn't cut arrows until I started the tuning process. Get a different bunch of point weights. 3Rivers has a deal of two each of 4 or 5 different weights. Even if you think you're not going to use 300 grains they're still nice to have. If you're working with a stiff arrow it's nice to put on 300 and get weak. Then you know you're headed in the right direction.

Here's the problem with cutting arrows to what you THINK you'll need. You may end up with an arrow so tip heavy it doesn't meet your needs or you won't be able to tune it at all. THe former is just annoying and the latter is expensive.

Learn this for tuning www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html click on 'download printable version'.

The best advise I can give I already gave. GET A COACH. I shot for 30 years and killed probably 40 animals before I got one. And not getting one when I was young was the biggest mistake in my archery career. I'm betting that others (who have had a coach) will agree. BUT there are guys who strive for perfection and others ... "As my pappy used to say" 'Perfect is good enough' ". THe first quote is from Maverick and the second from my father.

Bowmania

"Over bowed for one guy does not mean over bowed for all guys . Some people are stronger than others"

X2

The "over bowed" analogy has 2 meanings.

One, that the person using the bow has to struggle to draw that bow.

Two, that using a lighter bow will absolutely make it easier to learn proper anchor, expansion, and alignment, release etc..

Even if you can "draw" 100lbs, number two still dominates for a beginner.

But the ting is,if you are having difficulty getting a clean release with a lighter bow, it's because your release is bad to begin with. The heavier bow covers up the flaws.

"I still stand by my point that over bowed for one does not equal over bowed for another"

I agree with that.

Over bowed for one is PROBABLY over bowed for another. Strength is not the issue.

Strength is the issue for power lifting. Strength is not the issue for archery. You need muscles for powerlifting, and you don't need them for archery. In fact, when the discussion of beautiful releases comes up Park Sung-Hyun a woman is often mentioned. You need more of an endurance muscle for archery, rather than a strength muscle.

One of the key form issues with archery is alignment. Very hard to find proper alignment with heavy poundage. If I was coaching Arne (not Moe, maybe I should have said Arnold) I'd still have him at 35 pounds.

Bowmania

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