I want to shoot carbons. Can anybody tell me a good starting point ( test arrows ) for anASL string follow longbow 42#@26". I have been shooting Easton Legacies 1916 27"BOP. I shoot split fingered. I am confused about the myriad of specs ie length,point weights and spine# I am looking at 500 or 600GoldTips OR Carbon Express 3035(?). Been talking to Archery Tech at Lancaster Archery and he said that 600's were light 500 supposedly are too stiff. Thanks for reading.

Try easton st epics 600, full length with 125 up front. 3rivers has them on sale for $45/dz shafts. They are doing wy wife and i very well out of a 38lb dual shelf longbow. 500 or 600 is up to you, just adjust tip weight during tune.

You need to realize that carbons are much more responsive to changes in length than point weight. Start full length and trim in small stages to adjust spine.

G.T. Entrada 600s also. Wife shoots them with her 34lb Winn recurve.

An ASL, string follow will likely have little center shot capability. If you want carbons, and don't want them sticking out three or four inches past the bow, then you should look at 700 with 150'ish tips at 28". The tech was telling you the truth. I like arrows to fit my bow, so shooting 32" arrows with my 27" draw ain't gonna happen. Even with 700's, at 28" arrow, you may need more than 150 up front.

George, as far as Iknow the tips come in 125, 145 etc Are 150 tips available? Wouldn't a heavy weight point pull the arrow down trajectory wise? Fkoxter, exactly what I was thinking except I don't have a proper saw To cut the shafts . Sounds messy with carbon dust not being healthy to breathe. I have a harbor freight mini cut off saw that cuts wood arrows but not sure if the blade would be good for carbon.. Brian , x2 what George said. I don't want to shoot overly long arrows. Advice is good however.

I’ve got ONE Entrada 600 cut to 28”, and (with 125 up front), it bare-shafts right in with 1816/1916, so that should be close. Have to keep in mind your target GPP, though - depending on the shaft, you might want to use a heavier point just to make weight.

Will this work with carbons?

Chuck, 700's are relatively light mass so you shouldn't see much drop at all. Now if you wanted to use a stiffer shaft and weigh the ends down to get them to tune, then maybe so. I shoot 500 grain arrows from a 42# bow and can hit the 60 yard target.

Yes, that saw will work

Is there any abrasive saw blade on the market for Mini cut off? Thanks

Check the Norton blades on Fleabay.

I have 26" draw & shoot 28" gold tip traditional blemishes from big jim. I'm currently shooting a mcbroom asl 45@28 & .600's with 145gr points fly great

I have the attached spine chart will get you very much in the ballpark (whether you are looking for a target or hunting arrow).

Joe

I would try Stu Miller's spine calculator for a ball-park arrow configuration (it will be pretty close....) before investing in a bunch of different arrows with different spines. BUT -- Stu's calculator is only as good as the inputs you enter into it (errors in, errors out...)

trad47, Big Jim's sells the abrasive cut-off blades for that saw.

Also I've cut carbon's for 20 years with a tubing cutter & a tight fitting Phillips screw driver inside the shaft. Never had a problem

I would use the 600s or 700's. In Gold Tip, but the 600 in Beman centershot would likely do better than the GT unless you need 700' s.

Definitely not the 500's. I'm assuming that your bow isn't cut to center. If that is the case, I would look at a Gold tip 700. Might need that anyway even if the bow is cut to center.

At the very least, you need to shoot a longer 600 spine shaft. I know that a lot of guys shoot them for weights even below 40lbs, but unless your bow is cut past center, they bottom out at around 40 with full length shaft.

I have the centershots for $69.99 per dz. and they are a fantastic arrow. If you don't mind spending the money, look at the Easton axis 600's

The centershots are slightly smaller diameter than GT and will move the arrow closer to center. The Axis are smaller yet ... again the closer the center of the shaft moves twords center of the bow, the stiffer the arrow you can shoot.

BigJim

I like the Sitkas from grizzly sticks

What ever you go with use www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html click on 'download printable version' for tuning. It has the best broadhead tuning directions I've ever found. That's not true - it has the BEST tuning directions PERIOD.

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