I am looking to have 20-30 dozen shafts ( POC and Lodgeple Pine) given a 10" nock taper.

11/32" - 5/16" for the POC 23/64" - 11/32" or 5/16" for the LPP

I am happy to trade a few dozens for the work, however I would like them to be done at a professional level.

Anyone up for the challenge?

going rate is about $8.00 a dozen to taper , 30 dozen would be around $240.00 to taper plus shipping, they would also need straightened somewhat to properly taper, all that for a few dozen shafts , good luck

Also you could taper them your self with very little equipment.Using hand tools.But takes a lot of time and work.Ive done a couple of dozen and for all the labour ,not sure it's really worth it.But you will end up with better flying arrows.Just my opinion.

Tyler, I sent you a PM.

Terry at the Footed Shaft will probably do them for a fee, but it’s not realistic to think anyone is going to grind 20-30 dozen in trade for a couple dozen. It would cost you closer to 40% of your shafts and that’s if they are of high enough quality.

Thanks for the input guys.... I wasn't trying to say just a few dozen... I'm happy to pay whatever the going rate is.

This is not that hard to do yourself, if you are up to the challenge! You don't have to do the whole pile at one time, just do the dozen you are making up at the moment. Shipping was not quoted above and it would be a lot.

Its real easy to set up a drum sander and do it yourself if you have a 12 inch drum. You could probably get one cheap at harbor freight and have it forever.

i use a belt sander, is a drum sander better? how do you use it ?

Terry doesn't do them....Jim Curlee used to ,but got out of it.

Off topic, but related.

Tapering is actually very easy to do. I spin taper mine on my belt sander using a high speed drill. I call that spin sanding.

I get the nock, and a target point or blunt installed. I mark the shaft where I want the taper to start, in my case 9" up from the nock. With belt sander clamped in my bench vise, platen facing up, and 220 grit, I just sand in the taper from the nock up to the mark. Make a few repeate passes on the nock end to just one pass at the mark. Just eyeball the taper. Finish with 220 grit by spin sanding with paper in a gloved hand and the point in a drill. You can feel the taper, it should be nice and even from the nock to where you stopped sanding.

Oh forgot to mention, I use the nock as a reference point for arrow diameter. Sounds tough to do but actually it is very easy. I've made hundreds of tapered shafts using that technique. ALOT of work but worth the labor.

I think addictive archery

I just wish we had a good source of compressed shafts. Best woods that I ever shot were compressed and tapered.

I do them like Bob does and use a well worn 220 belt to make sure I cut slowly. I also use a block of wood with a vee notch cut in it to put a little pressure on the shaft while it is on the sander.

I misspoke. I meant a disc sander. I clamp a wood block on the table of the sander at an angle. I just push the shaft in and your angle you set cuts the shaft perfectly. I can send a picture if you need me to.

Dang Bode that sounds like a great way to taper.

You can also use a table saw set up the way Bode describes with a sanding disc on an old saw blade.

I know old fella's that has tapered shafts like that for nearly 50 years.

He also tapers the laminations for his bows essentially the same way.

I just talk to Terry about tapered shafts Saturday said he was taking them home to hsvecready to ship on Monday

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