About a month ago i purchased my first longbow from a gentleman in the classified section of bowsite. It is a Northern Mist Whisper 64 in 48#. My draw is 28 in. I've shot 55 to 60# recurves for about 15 years but some shoulder and elbow issues have forced me to purchase a lighter bow. Ive always wanted to hunt with a longbow hence my new purchace. The problem is I'm having some issues getting good arrow flight. The previous owner told me he shot poc 55-60# spine with 125 heads. I had some already made but they were slapping the self/sight window. I added weight up front, up to 300 grains. It help some but still not good. I also had some carbon express 150s with 235 grains up front they also smacked the riser. I added 50grn and then 100grn brass inserts up front. The 335 total up front seemed to help a little but still not good. I was thinking about buying the c.e. 90's and giving them a try. Also, I'm getting inconsistent results bare shaft tuning but its mostly showing stiff. Any advice on a starting point for a carbon arrow or wood would be appreciated.

29" 45/50# spine wood with 125 to 145 tips. You are no where near center shot with that bow. Carbons, 30" 600 with 150 to 175 out front.

try some gold tip 600 full length you will not need to cut them start with 150 up front then work up from there you will most likely get them to tune good about 200 grains maybe 250 try some 45 to 50 lbs cedars as well your cx 150's are too stiff being 500 spine

George we must have posted at the same time lol

Did you verify your brace height? Maybe try upping that a little bit to see what happens.

BTW, I had a Whisper a few years back. I wish I had never sold that one. They are a very pleasant bow to shoot.

You have great advice from both men. I would have suggested the 600 spine GT full length to start with. I like using brass so 100 grain brass and 145 grain tips. This is just my suggestion. I also agree with the 45-50 POC with 125 grn points.

-Bones

Thank you gentlemen, ill be ordering some arrows tomorrow.

Lefty4, i did check the brace height. If i remember correctly it is 7.25. Not sure what is recommended

Before you order arrows I suggest a little more experimentation.

First, I would try lower brace heights, down to about 6.5".

Second, try some different tabs or gloves.

Third, have another good archer shoot it a few times.

Fourth, take the best arrows you have found by then and then just do some casual archery to try to bond with your bow. Shoot at a blank bale from 6 feet away. Then do a walk back from there, one arrow every 6 or 7 yards. Get some judo or blunt points and do some roving. Shoot stumps, pine cones, dandelions. Work on your form. Feel your bow work. You may bond well enough with this your first longbow to figure out more about the issues.

And- welcome to our merry band of longbowmen. - lbg

Longbowguy, i like your suggestion i will try what you said. I will admit the bow feels foreign in my hands but i am determined to learn how to shoot it.(some call me stubborn) Two questions; you suggest a decrease in brace height, why? And why the new tab or glove?

45-50 cedars with 125 grain heads 28'75"bop or 50-55 cedars with 160 grain heads same length. That bow likes to have the whole hand contact the grip. Don't play g ramma jamma games with the bow arm with the low grip and lock everything up tight. Easy on the grip and let the bow arm and shoulder work without locking things up. You may lose an inch of draw. 6.5" brace may be a bit low for a reverse longbow. 7"+ would be more correct. 55-60s with 200 grains should have been correct enough, so I am guessing something else is happening. I assume you are shooting split finger and the string is running down the center of the limbs and you are canting the bow a bit. The Whisper is one of the easiest longbows to shoot and forgiving of most things other than extreme torquing.

ditto George's suggestion...slapping may come from short brace height (try 7"-7.5"). Forget bare shaft etc until you get reasonably good flight and accuracy without that slapping. Not a loose grip, not a choke grip...grip position (heel of hand) is important.

My suggestion is; Call Steve Turray ask him what his suggested brace height should be. start from there.'

Bob

Like longbowguy said,see what arrows fly the best.Then go roving.Dont be overly concerned about perfect arrow flight.Just ha e fun with your new bow.And it should come all together for you.All the advice from these guys is rock solid.

Well...you could just buy some .700's (which would be the proper spine for 48lbs.) cut them 29" to the back of the point and be done with it. That is if you want to use carbon.

ANd as was said earlier, if you want to use wood, then 45-49lbs. would be the ticket.

Buuuuut, the real question is do you have the entire arrow pointed at the target from string to point when you shoot? 'cause if you don't you're never going to find the right spine. And what is the right spine today, won't be the right spine next week.

fdp, im not sure i follow you. What do you mean by having the entire arrow pointed at the target? I assume i am buuuut how do i know for sure?

I went to visit Steve Turay at his shop 3 weeks ago. I walked out with a 64 baraga, but while there Steve showed me how he knocks the arrow over the nocking point. I shoot split finger and I have switched to nocking the arrow above my knocking point and I have never shot arrows that good. They are flying like darts. If you shoot split finger just for kicks adjust your knocking point down and nock the arrow above the knocking point and see what happens.

I will try the knocking point advice. Thanks,Dan. Thanks everyone for the help. I now have a great starting point.

You may want to call Big Jim. He sometimes has blemished/seconds for Gold Tips for a really good price...

Brad, just now having a chance to get back with you.

To see if you are pointing the entire arrow at the target do this. When you come to anchor, look from the string/nock all the way down the arro. Ensure that the ENTIRE arrow is in a stright line. If the point is on the target, and the nock is to the left, the arrows will impact right. If the nock is pointed at the target and the point is to the left, you will shoot left.If the nock is aligned iwtht he target, and the point of the arrow isn't, the arrow will follow the point. The arrow flies in a straight line from the string/nock through the length of the shaft, to the point.

It's not going to hurt anything for you to put 2 nock points on the string. However, based on the description of you gave, my guess is that you don't have the entire arrow lined up.

You aim the enire arrow, not the center of the bow.

Sounds simple, but you'd be amazed how many people just don't get that.

fdp, thanks for replying i will check it out tomorrow. But im going to ask a dumb question, if its not lined up what do i do to correct it.? Move my bow are i guess. Or change anchor or grip?

You might want to look at the Beman Centershot arrows. slightly smaller than the GT's and the best deal in wood grain carbon right now. I have them for $69.99 and that is not a sale price.

The smaller shaft will move your arrow closer to center and with a bow that's not cut to center, you can use all the help you can get.

Like George, I would say full length 600's. I too like the 175's or the 200's for that, but I wouldn't go any heavier than 200 up front just because your arrows will be very lethargic with a ton of front weight.

BigJim

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