How about a stick on rest. Lots of them on lancaster’s Web site. Some will get you close to the side of the riser. They are relatively inexpensive too.

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If I'm understanding you're question you've had to back the springy all the way out until it's against the riser and think it needs to go more? I'm not familiar with "fancy target bows" but I've not seen a metal riser that wasn't cut well past center and most use a plunger to laterally align the arrow. In my wheelie days I used a simple device call a center shot gauge which was basically a heavy duty wire 'L' to do what you're doing with the carpenter's square and it works well as long the riser reference surface itself is square. I'm further assuming when you refer to "center shot" you're still aligning to the inside edge of shaft tip for finger release and not center of shaft as you would a mechanically release compound? What little I've played with springy's, it's width was such that I also had it flush against the riser to get the aligned string/limbs/riser with the inside edge of shaft tip, so I wouldn't consider that unusual, but everybody's got their own form, arrow spine and diameter, etc. that factor into the equation.

nothing wrong with shooting off the shelf.

Nothing wrong with either. Danny, Many of the old compounds were cut at center or just past, not like those new things that you can put your arrow inside of center. I shoot my old 70's bows with a stick on rest of my own making. The bow takes a wider variety of spines with that setup too and it sets the arrow about half it's diameter off center. And as mentioned, you can set it up for shelf shooting but you will still have to bring the shelf up with something under the rug....or something else to get a high spot.

Dan you seem to have a good handle on things. I am not sure there is a question here. Your new arrows will tell it all. Good luck with them. >>>----> Ken

Sounds good so far....so with the springy all the way in you're there or you'd need more adjustment to get there, but don't have it?

That's the way I do it Dan! Line the string up with the center of the limbs,and the arrow tip should be just on the left side of the string.

Not sure if this is something you would do to a fancy riser, but you could drill a counter sink hole on inside of riser to allow springy to move in more.

....or shoot a weaker spined arrow!

Dan, are the new arrows that you have ordered the same diameter as the arrows you've been using?

Centershot gets a little blown out of proportion these days. There's lots of ways to set a bow like that up without shooting off the shelf. That is unless you want to shoot off the shelf.

You may even be able to use the springy. Just move it all the in to the point there is only enough for the arrow to sit on when you draw it, depending on the type you have.

I shot my B.B. Warf with a springy at first. If I recall we weight it at 47#. I had the rest turned in almost all the way. I moved that springy to my Rambo riser and shot the BB off the shelf. My riser had a radiused shelf. Not usual for a compound riser. For me it shot great and I am not an “off the shelf” recurve guy.

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