Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall

Wood arrow recommendations

Messages posted to thread:
timex 13-Mar-18
2 bears 13-Mar-18
Jim 13-Mar-18
timex 13-Mar-18
rraming 13-Mar-18
bigdog21 13-Mar-18
meatCKR 14-Mar-18
ny yankee 14-Mar-18
Matt B 14-Mar-18
Bowguy 14-Mar-18
From: timex
Date: 13-Mar-18

Got a new longbow bow on order & want to try wood arrows with it bow is 64" & 38@26 plan on hunting with 175 or 200 gr grizzly instincts. Been doing my own aluminum & carbon's for 37 years but have no experience with wood shafts- arrows. I need recommendations for shafts. nock & point taper tool. and how to seal & finish the shafts. I can figure the spine & already do my own fletching. I know I'm probably better off buying some premade but I like doing my own & would still need the taper tool for tuneing anyway Thanks Todd

Date: 13-Mar-18

Missing a few details, but nothing crazy. Id start with a 28" 45-48# shaft, POC or Douglas fir are safe bets, several others have their qualities as well. I prefer the TruCenter V2 tool for tapers, the plastic style is cheap and flimsy, but nice for field repairs if need be. You can seal shafts in many ways depending on cash flow, space or air quality. The easiest, cheapest and quite effective way is to wipe on at least 4-5 coats of Tru Oil. Use Duco cement for gluing the feathers and nocks on.

From: 2 bears
Date: 13-Mar-18

If your draw as well as your bow is 26" I agree great starting place. Wood arrows are fun. Enjoy. >>>---> Ken

From: Jim Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 13-Mar-18

You didn’t mention what type of longbow you are getting as shelf it will make a difference.

From: timex
Date: 13-Mar-18

Decided on a 64" foward handle Ryan Benoit longbow. Yes my draw is 26" not sure how the shelf will be cut he asked what arrows I shot & I told him about planning on trying wood with this bow but also shot carbon. & again thanks for the help

From: rraming Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 13-Mar-18

Don't use heavy points on wood shafts with low poundage bows. That arrow will drop steep at 15 yards but what do I know!

From: bigdog21
Date: 13-Mar-18

Surewood test kit. To start

From: meatCKR
Date: 14-Mar-18

Wapiti Cedars. Very straight grain with little to no run out. The best I have found. I light sand (very lightly) and stain. Then 3 coats of minwax wipe on poly to seal. Turns out very nice.

Have fun with it.

From: ny yankee
Date: 14-Mar-18

Despite what many will say here, Port Orford Cedar is still a viable arrow wood and still available from several suppliers. It makes great arrows, can be tapered easily with hand tools, and smells great while doing it. Not sure what the popular type of stain is for POC but the alcohol stains come in several colors and should work well for you.

I like Minwax Polyurethane in the gloss finish. I just brush it on with a sponge brush. No odor, no cleanup, cheap and easy to do. PM me if you would like an explanation. I think Cedar is good for novice fletchers but other woods like Surewood's Douglas Fir is great too, if not a tad tougher to work with. They make great arrow shafts. Later on, you may like to experiment with Ash or Hickory but they are very heavy and tough arrows. Good stumping and big game arrows.

From: Matt B
Date: 14-Mar-18

If you use any wood except cedar, the hand taper tools will be a problem. A Wood Chuck taper tool is awfully expensive for a first timer, so use the trutaper V2 with Port Orford Cedar shafts and it will work fine. Fast drying polyurethane thinned a bit with low odor mineral spirits makes a good sealer. Lacquer is the old classic, but it welds to 3d targets badly, and will give you brain damage if you use it inside your house. You can also use acrylic hobby paint for crests and crown dip with poly, and clear coat over the top of them. Can't really do that with lacquer. I should have read NY Yankee's post and I wouldn't have had to say anything. Good advice right there.

From: Bowguy Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 14-Mar-18

I’ll second the Wapiti shafts

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