Wondering if anyone can provide any information regarding my Dad's bow, purchased new in the mid 1950s in western Pennsylvania. 66 inches long.

I can't find any maker information on it, but that may have been covered over when my Dad camouflaged it in the '50s.

When I removed the leather on the handle there is a "B' stamped into the wood, and a "55" printed in ink. I had thought that my Dad had told me that it was a 50 pound bow, but my memory may be faulty after some 60 years, so I wonder if the "55" means it is a 55 pound bow.

The other side of the handle has what could be a "116" or a "#6", or even an "H6".

Would greatly appreciate any insight as to the maker, the poundage, the possible type of wood, or anything else.

Thanks.

Bill

Other side of the handle.

It's probably a Ben Pearson hickory bow at 55#. The hard walnut arrow strike dowel was characteristic of Pearson's. The #116 could mean anything and I don't know what the "B" could be for either. I've refinished and shot some of these bows but you have to work into it carefully and slowly. Is it a longbow or does it have recurves on the tips? Lance

Thanks very much Lance. Recurve. Have had trouble tryin to post a picture of the whole bow, but trying again here. I think maybe my picture size was too large.

It should shoot pretty good. Mine are slow because of the moisture here in Western WA, but they hit hard with a heavy arrow . Mine are 50# at 28" but I draw 27" with a longbow.Your Dad's bow looks like it's in good shape. Are you going to refinish it? I used Tru-oil and took my time. Lance.

Unfortunately it's coming apart at the handle!

Yes, am planning to refinish it, and also to try to address the starting delamination. Someone had posted somewhere on here that they thought Loctite 420 was best to use for that, as it seeps very well into the open areas.

Lance - What was the purpose of the walnut arrow strike dowel? Was it to reinforce the side of the bow against wear from the arrow flight?

I had one like that too. Glued and clamped and still in one piece, but I haven't shot it in a year or so to give a more current report. Lance

Cool!

Thanks.

That, and to indicate constant arrow placement because these bows were shot off the hand. Lance

Thanks again!

I hadn't realized they were shot off the hand, but that makes sense.

The dowel on my Dad's bow is on the left hand side, for a right hand draw, but he had a plastic arrow rest on the right hand side, as he was left-handed, so he must have added that sometime after he bought the bow, probably when he camouflaged it.

I used epoxy that worked with wood to fill the crack in the handle area of my bow. I spread it on both sides of some thin typing paper and sandwiched it inbetween the gap before I clamped it. Don't overtighten, you want soma glue left in there. This was before I learned about syringes to use with glue. Lance

Thanks. Some good ideas!

What type glue did you use, and do you know anything about te Loctite 420?

Had a number of Ben Pearson bows. Fixed handle delaminations with the West System. Finished with Truoil. Salvaged leather on some and used as pattern on new leather on others. Great shooters. John

What Stoner said. The only difference being that I use System 3 T-88.

Loctite 420 is fine for a crack that is just barely visible. For a wider separation like that there would be other products that would be better. Loctite 420 flows so well it is easy to get it where you do not want it. I once almost glued a limb to my leg with it by not being careful enough. There is a reason it is called a wicking glue.

DDave

I believe. Just google Loctite products and you should be able to find one that is better for your use.

Looks like a Pearson Deerslayer. Like said above, 55# hickory semi-recurve. The delam of the glued up riser was common. Reminds me, I've got one in the basement to repair.

Thanks very much to all for the info! Greatly appreciate all that information!

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