Hi men! in reference to selecting carbon arrows. How accurate is the calculator to getting you close to where you want? Sorry.... maybe dumb repetitive questions but I'm a life long woody shooter wanting to try some carbon.

Works great if you enter all of the information correctly!

Stu never meant the calculator to be all things to all people. It is just one tool we can use to help us get to where we wish to be. Stu used to post here a lot and I have to believe he just got tired of folks not appreciating all of his hard work.

DDave

it will get you close but you'll probably have to tweak a little

I agree with DDave about the abuse that Stu received after trying to help us. I like to use the calculator to try various things before I actually build my arrows and head to the target butt.

Grouse

People that can't do basic math are the ones that do all the bitching!

It helps me. I did have it come out dead nuts on a few times.

Its results are only as good as the information you input. It’s a great tool for me, it gets me darn close, if not dead on.

It will get you close enough so that tuning from there is fairly easy because you are close.

One good trick is this: Once you have fine tuned your arrow, enter all of the final information into the spine calculator and see what the dynamic spine turns out to be. Then write that down. If you change any components you can enter that information into the calculator and if you get the same dynamic spine you are extra close to being tuned.

For example: Let's say you shoot a souped-up, fast bow that is 46# at 29" -- and once you are done bare-shaft tuning and testing you have an arrow with a dynamic spine of 51#. Any other arrow with a calculated dynamic spine of 51# will also be very close to tuned for that same bow. And the remaining fine tune process will be easy.

Thanks men! That's encouraging. Sorry to hear Stu wasn't appreciated. I appreciate anyone putting in effort and work that helps others.

The downloadable (Excel) version is much better, and Rick Barbee has an on- line version with even more data in it.

I’ve had great success with it tuning with aluminum; turns out that my bows like 2016 (#55@28” recurves), 1916 (#55@28” mild R/D LB) and 1816 (#50@28” medium-hard RDLB). All drawn to about 27” AMO. Hoping my #40@28” Project recurve will be enough more centershot to use 18s or 19s...

Carbons seem to be trickier. YMMV. My biggest beef with carbons is that they’re hard to cut to length, but as Joe said, once you figure out your target weight, you should be able to plug in changes in length and point weight to dial in on your ideal arrow spec, and tune in from there.

Just don’t take the calculator’s word for it - I’d experiment until bare-shafting says I’ve got it, plug in the observed spec and let the calculator deliver the data on the shaft that actually WORKS.

I’m just not sure how readily you can apply the numbers from a GT to a Beman to an Easton, etc... So I’m sticking to aluminum while I learn about wood..

It works very well but folks still have a hard time using it. The most common mistake is the +- center shot. Make sure you go the right way and get the correct weights for you components. Be positive of your draw length. Good luck. >>>----> Ken

Chad, if you will provide the specs of your bow, type of string, and the point weight & type of fletching you prefer to use, I'll run the calculations for you on Stu's actual calculator.

Here's a link to Stu's version online.

http://www.taylortel.net/~rickbarb/dynamic_spine_calculator.html

I'll post the results I get, you can review them, and go back to the calculator to play with and make any changes you might want.

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One note about the online calculator:

There may be red error indicators sometimes when selecting some items even though the calculations are correct/accurate. Just ignore the errors, and continue. We're still trying to figure out why this HTML online version shows the errors, but the actual Excel desktop version does not.

Rick

Will get you pretty close

I don't know jack about carbon arrows, so no help there. I've used the updated (~ 2011 maybe?) Stus calculator on my wood arrows and find it to be spot on. Once again, credit and a BIG thanks to Stu Miller for his >FREE< calculator.

Thanks Stu! TLM

http://www.shootingthestickbow.com/ArrowGuide.html

OK, some prefacing here.

Note, that I have entered the shafts actual specs taken from the manufacturers website.

These are Carbon Express Heritage 150's, but they error on the online calculator.

To avoid any error in the results, I simply manually entered the shaft specs. I do this for all my shafts whether there are errors or not, and recommend others do so as well.

Chad said he wanted to use from 145 to 160 grain heads. I went for the middle with 150's

The bow is supposedly cut -1/16 (1/16 past center), and has a 1/16" strike plate material. This places the strike plate position at 0 (zero)

When using these calculators you should "ALWAYS" start with your arrows at least 1" longer than the calculator results indicate, and then cut/tune them down from there if needed.

This is a darn close match for you Chad.

Rick

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