Howdy ... Just picking peoples brains ... some and spine chart query.... I have a bunch of GT Trad arrows ... and just got given a bunch more ... Soooooo..... my query

My specs - Black Widow Longbow- 64” 50#@29” ...

I have bareshafted a bunch of Easton FMJ 390’s cut at 30.5 tipped with 200gns - they pretty much hit fine of a little stiff at 15 yards - with feathers they throw the biggest broadheads I can find beautifully out to 50 yards ...

Threw the 3Rivers Calc they should be a tad stiff .

Now - these GT Trads are cut at 29 3/4 , spines at 500 ( Big Jim Blems) with 100gb adapters and 125 heads..... I haven’t bareshafted yet ... but with feathers and Broadheads ( as they are made up already , these are probably the most accurate arrows I have and they should be WAY underspined ... ( according to 3Rivers Calc ) they shoot just dandy and land where I want at most distances .... Now before I open these packs of new shafts and commit to buying them I thought I’d throw it out there to see if any had any ideas and if anyone had experience with shafts that are apparently way underspined ?

To be honest I just need to cut the feathers off and see how these made up arrows go ... but it kinda flew against everything I had been setting up .

I don't understand how they can be under spined. On my spine tester 500's show 62lbs.

28 (inches) divided by .500 (deflection) is 56 pounds.

Are you drawing 29"? I always prefer to start with arrows that are a bit weak with the point weight that i want so I can cut them back and tune to that point weight. I've heard that the BWs will handle a little wider range of spines because they are cut a little past center. I always bareshaft, but on the other hand the end goal is getting broadheads to fly where you look and with the arrow flying true for best penetration. Sounds like you are getting that so maybe skip the bareshafting and be happy with the accuracy you are getting. I know sometimes I overthink things. When something works as well as these seem to be working for you, I'd take it! PS---I don't use the calculators.

They are not under spine at all. Matter of fact they should be near perfect with a 125 head and 29 3/4" long. Either you're reading the chart wrong, or the chart is not correct. That would have been my first choice as a static spine to start with that bow and I would expect it to be near perfect at your setup.

What are total weight of both arrows? Isn’t that FMJ a heavier shaft before adding weight up front? Isn’t it a skinnier shaft as well? Maybe that is what causing some questions? Me, I would just shoot them to see if those GT act weird if you have a not so good release or can’t achieve your form.

Just bare-shaft ‘em and remove all doubt. It’s NOT hard; you just shoot at a line down the middle of your target and mark where the bare shafts hit. If you do t want to strip 2 arrows, just do one. It might take twice as long, but who’s in a hurry this time o’ year?

FWIW, there are those who will shout from the rooftops that the calculator has just about EVERYBODY hugely overspined, but only your results matter...

So go get some!

I must be missing something. If they are the most accurate arrows you have. What difference does it make what we think? Sorry if I am misreading something. Be thankful for the gift. I would if you sent some my way. ;^) >>>----> Ken

I think at times we get too hung up on what a spine chart says. I have a 53lb@28 Kanati that shoots a Goldtip Traditional XT .600 cut to 30 in, with 200 gr up front. That bow shoots those like a dart. According to a lot of spine charts that arrow should be too weak. Some bows shoot stiffer arrows better, some weaker. Just the way it is.

Me, I shoot arrows, not charts. Ymmv.

I’d note that the GT’s have the 100gn insert plus the 125gn point .

And yep- I sure can ( and will) strip some feathers off..... It’s still interesting though ....

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