Got a pair that Id like to keep waterproof Part leather , part nylon.

any recommendations appreciated

Try the Obenhauf boot line. You can type that into Google and it comes up. They make it here in my home town of Peck Idaho. Great family. The guy started logging here 40 years ago. He would use deer tallow and linseed oil to make his own boot oils. Well, after he retired he branched out. Got products for suede, full grain, etc. Even has spray on oils too. I use this now and my full grain leathers do not crack when dry out. You use other products and your leathers will crack. This stuff is top notch. That's why Cabelas carries it. Idaho_Hunter out.

Second the Obenhuaf. Don't know about the nylon on your boots, I would guess that part was meant to breathe.

Montana Pitchblend. Works on shooting gloves, quivers, tabs, boots, etc. RKK

Snow Seal. Works Great.

Doug

If you want something that is cheap and works great, get some gasket wax that you use for toilets. Really

I’ve had great success with Montana Pitchblend. I use on my boots, Quivers, tabs, and dress shoes.

Ding, ding, ding...we have a "traditional" winner....Panzer gets the "old school" award! Actually, I finally had to resole my beloved old Danner Frontiers. The boot repair dude new I was a hunter and "did me a favor" by waterproofing them for me with some kind of thick wipe-on silicone treatment. I had to act grateful, but they smelled more perfumey than a French cathouse. I used the toilet ring wax treatment that I was going to do it with to knock that smell down! the method of tanning the leather also plays a role in the best waterproofing. I don't remember that rule of thumb, but it's good to know so you don't turn your footwear rancid. Suede type leathers/nylon on my hiking boots just get spray silicone, but it's smell is mild, dissipates quickly and I don't hunt in them.

Montana Pitch fan here Terry

Snow seal, heat gun.

X2 Shawn, great stuff.

Snow Seal for the leather, just rub it in good. I never use hot air dryers on leather boots, it dehydrates too quickly in my opinion. The Seal will penetrate easily as the boots sit and dry. I use silicone spray on the nylon parts.

Just remember if you use these products on Goretex etc they ill no longer breath.

Gortex is a liner, not something in the leather. Snow Seal doesn't keep leather from breathing but does make it water resistant...it will still breathe.

I use snow seal on the leather and the nylon or cordura or what ever it is.

I used mink oil for years and went to the silicone sprays a while back. I use it on leather and nylon alike.

Sno-Seal. I warm the boot to a temperature where the boot can still be easily touched with a hair dryer. That won't hurt the boot in my experience. Heated leather allows deep penetration of successive applications. In fact it's possible to effectively waterproof them with several applications. The downside is your feet will not breathe, and that is a real big deal if you are in those boots all day long.

This is why I like goretex boots. Dry even though the leather can get soaked through.

Another Sno-Seal fan for leather.

Depending on what you use, be sure to treat and condition the leather prior to adding the water repellant.

Not all water repelling agents do any treatment at all. They simply lay on the surface of the leather.

Sno-Seal. Throw the boots on a boot dryer to warm up the leather and wipe it on. Let it soak in and repeat.

All that rub on stuff is fine for the leather but it's useless where seams are and water will start coming in sooner or later. So get some shoe goo and a rubber glove. Get a dab on your finger tip and smear it on the seams from the inside. Keep it thin and it dries quickly. Add a second coat if needed. Works great and Truly makes your boots waterproof

Goretex in boots lasts for a couple of years at best if you put on much mileage. I avoid it except for Sox. Some say silicone is bad in the long run.

Shoe goo is ok for seams, but not truly ply able and will fail in hi flex areas. Best thing for seams is aquaseal seam grip, *but none of these adheasives will work if boot has been previously treated with any wax based product...also, bone are trule uv proof and yellow/dry out over time.....

Snow seal will cause cracks in your top grain leathers after it dries out. That was my go to brand until I lost a $400 pair of White's boots. Obenhauf's does not do this.

Obenhauf has worked well for me,,,, check out FNT trapping supply I think they sell a real good one too,,,,

I also heat my boots up with a hair dryer and work it in,,, I take real good care of my upland boots, they get more use than average and last for many years

I use mink oil, hand rub it in on warm dry boots...repeat periodically. Sandy

used ground hog fat when i was young, worked good but stunk so bad that my mom made me keep my shoes outside

Rubber for me is like wearing Frigidaire brand boots. I have some nice Bean boots but under 40 degrees I opt for my leather/nylon hiking boots.

As for cracking leather, that usually comes from drying in an environment of very low humidity...like a heated home in winter. Good quality leather that is not chemically tanned will last for a lot of years if treated with a good leather treatment. I've used Sno Seal since the 1970's, and recently some Mink Oil when Sno Seal started disappearing off local store shelves. Everyone has their favorites and I'm sure a lot of them work very well. Untreated boots will dry and crack long before treated ones do. At least that is my experience. YMMV.

To keep from hurting the leather I heat what ever dubbin I am using with the heat gun then apply.

I have always subscribed to the theory that you could not mix silicone treatments with oil/grease treatments. Has that changed?

Don't step in water

Dubin

Check out KIWI BOOTH Protector. It repels water and stains, is breathable, and is safe for all materials and colors.

Wear rubbers.

I always used Nor-V-Gen boot grease. Slathered on extra thick on stitching seams...then in the oven on low heat until it all wicked in.Then another light coat and good to go. Worked fine in Northern Mn. winters on the trapline.

I truly believe the silicone junk dont remember the name,I put on my last pair of hunting boots is what caused them to crack right where they bend at the toes.my first time useing the stuff and the last.The pair I had before them lasted 4 times as long and they were the same name and style boot.guess I'll go back to sno seal ifn i can find it.

KIWI Mink oil, contains mink oil, silicone, and lanolin.

Feibings Aussie Leather conditioner,It has worked better than Sno Seal and Danner Boot dressing that I have used.I use it on all my leather products,from back quiver to sheaths.

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