Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


What the....????? Nocks poppin’ off!

Messages posted to thread:
GF 29-Dec-17
Jeff Durnell 29-Dec-17
r-man 29-Dec-17
Therifleman 29-Dec-17
GF 29-Dec-17
1sthound 29-Dec-17
George D. Stout 29-Dec-17
Glynn 29-Dec-17
Treeman 29-Dec-17
MStyles 29-Dec-17
Riverwolf 29-Dec-17
Andy Man 29-Dec-17
Elderly OCR 29-Dec-17
hawkeye in PA 29-Dec-17
2 bears 29-Dec-17
Mpdh 29-Dec-17
DarrinG 29-Dec-17
GF 29-Dec-17
Therifleman 29-Dec-17
2 bears 29-Dec-17
From: GF
Date: 29-Dec-17




Didn’t want to give away the surprise as to what this thread is about, but if people don’t know or don’t care, there is no sense in putting out Clickbait.

So this afternoon I went out into the cold with a couple of new arrows that I put together last night; I used a dab of Loc-tite GO-2 and made sure I had smeared it around under the nock as I wiggled and twisted them onto brand-new 1816s for the Viper.

After fewer than a dozen shots, the bare shaft underwent a virtual dry-fire at the release. No nock to be found. Wrote it off as a freak event.

After fewer than a dozen more, same thing happened with the fletched shaft.

Scared the crap outta me both times!

Was it my prep, maybe? Cold temps, perhaps? Poor fit of nock to the string?

Just would like to be able to bare-shaft these babies without fear of further incidents!

From: Jeff Durnell Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 29-Dec-17




Years ago I was given a dozen arrows and after about twenty shots I had lost two or three nocks with virtual dry fires as the result. I quit shooting them and they're still in a box in the garage and I never did figure out the problem. Didn't care because they weren't my cup of tea to begin with, but I'm guessing it was the relationship between the glue and paint they used... and/or maybe the tapers didn't match between the nock and shaft.

From: r-man
Date: 29-Dec-17




switch glue , the teens type cold will test your equipment

From: Therifleman
Date: 29-Dec-17




Sounds like an adhesive compatability issue possibly compounded by the cold--- metal contracts in cold. Ive never had an issue with duco.

From: GF
Date: 29-Dec-17




“Ive never had an issue with duco.”

Really? I fletched some aluminum arrows with Duco and my back yard looked like somebody had sent an RPG through a turkey truck...

Just don’t want to ever find myself with a semi-dry-fire incident while using a broadhead. Just seems like a bad idea...

From: 1sthound
Date: 29-Dec-17




Had the same thing happen to me last week with brand new factory arrows. 3 nocks out of 6, took them home and broke off the nocks and replaced with after market ones. Never had that happen before it was in the 40s with aluminum shafts.

From: George D. Stout Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 29-Dec-17




Duco is not compatible with aluminum, unless you dip the shaft with acrylic lacquer first. It works great on wood. I use the same glue on my nocks as on my fletch. Duco with wood, Saunders NPV with aluminum. Hard to tell though what your issue may have been.

From: Glynn
Date: 29-Dec-17




Happened to me with dipped aluminum shafts with swaged nock ends.

Yeah, after about 3 of those exploding dry fires you get a bad flinch.

From: Treeman
Date: 29-Dec-17




I have had the same thing on the 1816 arrows I got from 3 rivers. A nock popped off on release making it a dry fire. Out of a dozen arrows I have to replace almost all of them and the ones that don't fall off break. Maybe the string is too thick for them? The 2016 arrows I have have never had a problem

From: MStyles
Date: 29-Dec-17




I had that same experience with that locktite go 2, on wood shafts. After 3 nocks popped off, I changed nocks and glue. I’m sure that stuff is a good adhesive for something, but not for nocks.

From: Riverwolf
Date: 29-Dec-17




I "like many" love aluminum , and have absolute trust in the gorilla superglue "Blue cap" ....in "all" temps ;)

....for glue on nocks , always double check you have the correct size for that shaft . The gorilla blue cap stays slightly flexible , thus not getting brittle like regular hard drying super glues .. You probably already know this , just adding for those that might not ;)

From: Andy Man
Date: 29-Dec-17




Saunders NVP feathers and nock on aluminum-scrub aluminum with dutch cleanser and rinse and wipe dry

Nock on Wood- no failures

From: Elderly OCR
Date: 29-Dec-17




Different coefficient of thermal expansion between materials coupled with a material that really doesn't bond well unless better steps are taken to prep the surface.

The guys who have success either deliberately or accidentally prep the two materials better.

From: hawkeye in PA
Date: 29-Dec-17




I've had cold weather problems with nocks on aluminum also. Use to replace nocks after cleaning nock taper well. And I would have been using the original fletchtite.

From: 2 bears
Date: 29-Dec-17




WRONG GLUE 1. Not for use on painted or varnished surfaces 2.Not for use Non ferrous metal 3.Not for use on non porous surface. Terrible nock glue. Any plastic hobby glue will work fine. You can't get a nock off without busting it. >>>----> Ken

From: Mpdh
Date: 29-Dec-17




Same problem, same glue. But I had happen when it was still warm outside, months ago. The nock taper still had glue firmly attached, so it must not be compatible with the plastic the nocks are made of. I will not use it again.

MP

From: DarrinG
Date: 29-Dec-17




As stated, metal (aluminum) will slightly contract in really cold air. A more pliable type glue should perform better in really cold climate. And..another reason I prefer uni-bushings and super nocks!

From: GF
Date: 29-Dec-17




Hmmmmm.... Marco BJs + Tributes

So.... plain old superglue?

Or maybe a guy just oughtta stick to woodies when it gets good & cold out?

How much you wanna bet that B&C bucks are attracted like Magic to the sound of nocks popping off and landing in the leaf litter....

From: Therifleman
Date: 29-Dec-17




Ive used duco for years to glue nocks on aluminums and have never had one fail.

From: 2 bears
Date: 29-Dec-17




Duco or any plastic model cement works well. See above post. The instructions on that glue say it don't work. >>>---> Ken





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