Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


Still relevant and still Viable

Messages posted to thread:
Mo0se 25-Dec-17
Sawtooth (Original) 25-Dec-17
Andy Man 25-Dec-17
George D. Stout 25-Dec-17
Pdiddly 25-Dec-17
Mpdh 25-Dec-17
DarrinG 25-Dec-17
RonG 25-Dec-17
Greencb 25-Dec-17
rare breed 26-Dec-17
Big Dog 26-Dec-17
Bob Rowlands 26-Dec-17
Tree 26-Dec-17
GF 26-Dec-17
Pdiddly 26-Dec-17
Pdiddly 26-Dec-17
George D. Stout 26-Dec-17
dean 26-Dec-17
Hal9000 26-Dec-17
Bob Rowlands 26-Dec-17
From: Mo0se
Date: 25-Dec-17

Mo0se's embedded Photo



I stumbled across these the other day in my basement, and just had to smile. I have so many good memories with Aluminum arrows. I remember the time when X7's were king, and every bowhunter had the classic camo XX75 or Autumn Orange XX75. I also can't forget the XX78 Super slams. Yes Aluminum arrows bend, yes they are prone to make noise if bumped against hard things in the quiver. But I do know firsthand that these arrows exhibit great qualities as well. First off, it seems they absorb energy even better than wood, and make for a quiet shot. I know the specs, and tolerances of these arrows, ".002" straightness, and unmatched spine tolerance compared to "most" of todays carbons. Due to the manufacturing and control process, these arrows are far more consistent than "most" carbon.

Take for example my Easton Axis Traditional arrows, there was a 25 gr weight difference in one arrow out of 6. Could have been an oversight, but since they are machine sorted and printed with a lot number on the shaft, the machine clearly failed. This is not a bash carbon arrows thread, but rather a look at an alternative hunting shaft. Most people wanting to build a hunting weight arrow should know that these Legacy arrows are far easier to do this with. No heavy brass inserts, no obscene point weights etc. These 1916 weigh 10 grains per inch. a perfect platform to throw a 125gr broadhead on and be done with it. These are easy to cut and trim with a simple pipe cutter as well.

I ordered some Easton 1916 inserts, some AAE 9/32 Plastinock glue ons, some Ozark Eagle tip feathers and some 125gr heads for these classics. I will need to trim them about an inch and by the time they are assembled I'm looking at a 455 gr arrow that is super quiet out of a longbow. OUt of curiosity, I checked to see if Easton still offered the Legacy, and they do. At $5 a shaft, you won't find a carbon with the consistency and straightness at that price point. Since I have 21 already, I'm not sure I need any but I will be ordering some more just to have around. I will also be sharing some of these with my buddy Cody, as his longbow and mine are identical in weight and length etc. If you're on a budget or if you want spine and straightness tolerances through the roof compared to carbon at this price point, look no further, these are perfect.

From: Sawtooth (Original) Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 25-Dec-17




Absolutely nothing wrong with aluminum. I love them. I have a ton of them- they are perfect for all the reasons that you mentioned and then some.

From: Andy Man
Date: 25-Dec-17




Yep! nice arrows-you are correct on all points

shoot aluminum along with my wood

tried carbons , and let them go at that

From: George D. Stout Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 25-Dec-17




This will be my 52nd year of using aluminum arrows. Never got the urge for carbons, but do have a few old Microflite fiberglass. 2016's have been my go-to shaft for forty years.

From: Pdiddly
Date: 25-Dec-17




You echoed my thoughts on why I use aluminium arrows exclusively...a predictable outcome without, for me, an enormous amount of monkeying around. I shoot 1916's in a lot of different bows.

From: Mpdh
Date: 25-Dec-17




I still have 6 Easton Classics. These were the original wood grain shafts that came before the Legacy. They look the same, but don’t have the footing on the end.

MP

From: DarrinG
Date: 25-Dec-17




I also shoot aluminums exclusively. Currently shooting 1816's and 2016's out of three different recurves. Got plenty of 1916's too, which covers most bows in the weight ranges I prefer.

However, I'm leaning towards trying some wood again, maybe this coming summer...just for fun.

From: RonG
Date: 25-Dec-17




I like aluminum and wood, carbon make great plant stakes.

Don't get upset folks, just my opinion of what I like.

From: Greencb
Date: 25-Dec-17




Looking forward to them. Like you after shooting woodies it is difficult to justify the cost of carbon.

From: rare breed
Date: 26-Dec-17




Been shooting 2215 and 2114 Easton Gamegetters and Autumn Oranges for the last 30-plus years. Never a problem, never a complaint. Sometimes "Old School" is the right school...

From: Big Dog
Date: 26-Dec-17




Having forrayed a few years into carbons....I am back to aluminum. It rocks for all the points you mention. Regards

From: Bob Rowlands
Date: 26-Dec-17




Regardless of what the arrow shaft is made from, it is the arrow mass that the bow propels. The heavier the arrow the more energy it absorbs. That's why old school commercial fish arrows were made from glass, not aluminum. The mass retains the bow energy penetrating through water.

From: Tree
Date: 26-Dec-17




I like and use both, carbon and aluminum. A bunch of tournaments have been won and game has been taken with aluminum. Shoot what you like and what fly's well.

From: GF
Date: 26-Dec-17




Nuts. I was hoping this was going to turn into a give-away. LOL

From: Pdiddly
Date: 26-Dec-17




I have the following arrow sizes all cut to 28".

1816,1916, 2016, 2113, 2114, 2115, 2018, 2117, 2213 and 2216.

Most of my bows are 45-60# @28".

With a new bow I just try one of the three shafts from a spine grouping appropriate for the draw weight of the bow.

So for a bow that is 57-63# I would try a 2018, 2115 and a 2213...all the same static spine but one will like the amount of centre cut on the bow best. Usually it is one of the first two. I can then tune with point weight.

For bows from 52-56" I'll try a 2016 and either a 2113 or 2114.

Some of the arrows are obsolete sizes (2113 and 2115) but bare shafts come up often on eBay as NOS or shafts that were fletched and may or may not need to be cleaned up. I fletch my own so no problems getting a bunch of arrows that are affordable.

Not hard for me to get an arrow to hit where I am looking doing this.

From: Pdiddly
Date: 26-Dec-17




Sixth paragraph should, of course, read 52-56#, not inches.

From: George D. Stout Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 26-Dec-17




You can pick up some aluminum arrows off the internet, maybe made in 1970, and they will be identical to the same alloy made today, and that applies to 360 degrees around the shaft. To get that in carbons you will likely have to go to the $150.00 a dozen shafts for a semblance of uniformity like that.

Mass is just weight, and aluminum has plenty for hunting without adding this or that to raise the mass. Shooting fish means penetrating maybe a foot of water before getting to the fish, hardly a job for hollow shafts of any kind. That said, a fish arrow weighs over 1000 grains without the points, so unless you are Monty Browning, shooting 90 pound bows, you likely should stick with the standard offerings.

Everyone has their favorites, and I'm of the school that if something is working, there is no reason to change it. Top that with being able to buy my shafts for about $40.00 a dozen, and sometimes even cheaper, it's a no-brainer for me. Yes, I break and bend some arrows occasionally, but seeing all the carbon shards laying on the ground at every target at the clut, I feel much better about it.

From: dean
Date: 26-Dec-17




When I shot heavy longbows, my go to aluminum was 2117s, When I dropped down to 64 pound bows it was 2018s, now I am shooting the poundage I always should been shooting, 50 to 58 and it is 1918s. I still shoot some fiberglass arrows. I do switch to wood as well when I feel like it. I found that my Surewoods and my 1918s are the same weight, have the same spine and shoot out of the same bows. I do tweak the tunings with the 1918s per individual bow a little, by doing things like using either the screw on adapters versus the one piece ferrules. They are just a little bit more sensitive to bow changes than the woods, but these are minor things to adjust to get that minor change in up front weight when using the same weight broadheads. It amounts to having a few more grains up front for bows that require a touch less spine when using the screw in adapters.

From: Hal9000
Date: 26-Dec-17




use cedar for hunting and aluminum out of my target recurve.. my carbons collect dust as that is their purpose :)

From: Bob Rowlands
Date: 26-Dec-17




"First off, it seems they absorb energy even better than wood,..." Should have referenced that at the start of my post.





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