I probably should have clicked the Debate-Free button...

Kindly note the title of this thread. I don't use a rest myself, so I know next-to nothing about them. Don't need to be told the benefits of shooting off of the shelf and don't want to get into a discussion of what is/is not considered "Traditional".

Just trying to help get BIL set up for shooting in the back yard, and I'm thinking an elevated rest would simplify getting him tuned up.

This guy has a pretty utilitarian outlook on a lot of things, so I don't know that he'll want to spend a lot of time fussing with bare-shaft tuning, etc. to find the right arrow, so the objective is just to get him tuned to where he can shoot a broadhead accurately to 20 yards or so with a minimum of muss & fuss...

Likeliest bow for him is Samick Journey or equivalent, #35 or #40... He asked for #40, but I think since he's 6' 2", he should go #35 and net out at #40-ish so as not to get overbowed.

That riser has a hole for a Berger Button, so thinking maybe he should go with an elevated rest and possibly add the plunger at some point.

This is not at all about being Trad; he does want a recurve, but really, he just wants to shoot targets and maybe plunk one of the deer that have been browsing off of his landscaping for the past 20 years. Payback time!

So... Questions...

Does a rest actually make it easier to tune?

Would you go with a Hoyt Hunter? Bear Weatherrest? Some kind of a flipper?

Should he start off with a plunger button?

Anything else I should keep in mnd?

Keep it simple.

Easier to tune? Yes.

Which rest? I would try to find a Flipper II off ebay. If you want to use a pkunger you can. If not, some simple furniture felt dot pads will work to cushion the arrow on the sideplate.

Don't know if it makes it easier to tune, just different. Still have to find the correct arrow spine for the bow. In fact, the rest might actually hide tuning problems. Reduces, obscures the effect of a too low nocking point, for example.

If he's fairly utilitarian, he may not like an elevated rest. Just something to fall off or break.

I'd avoid the plunger. Another adjustment he might not want to mess with.

Any of the rests you mention will work fine.

Actually keeping it simple is using a plain stick on rest. I've been doing it since the 60's. A stick on Hoyt Super Rest for $2.50 from Lancaster Archery is what I usually use. Don't need a plunger at all. Stick it on just barely above the shelf, then set your nock set at 3/8" above horizontal and you will be near perfect to start with.

Yes, they are both easier to tune, and more adaptable to variable spines due to limited contact. And, elevated rests have been used since the lat 1940's so it's as traditional as anything else on the bow. Talk about simple....that is as simple as it gets.

I think so. I only have rest on a couple of bows,prefer the shelf for simplicity. I always shoot the bows with a rest better and they seem less finicky. I keep telling myself to put rests on all of them but just don't get around to it. Can't think of the name but the stick on plastic rest work as well as any thing. They are easily made from the little display clips from stores and look like the exact same material. Can send pictures by email. By the way no need for your BIL to concern himself or worry you with tuning,until he is consistently hitting the target. Just set him up near right. Plenty of time for tuning later. Trim the bottom to put the rest as low as possible. Yes I advised you different. You had years of experience.Good luck. >>>----> Ken

Another thing. I've never had a stick on rest fall off or break. You will get lots of folks who don't like them to dis them for one reason or another. To me, they are the first thing that goes on a recurve when I buy one. I don't think I've just been lucky for fifty couple years.

I really like brush and feather rest but they are not quite as simple to make or as cheap to buy.I also make them.>>>---->Ken

I will also add while were at it, you can still shoot the bow canted or vertical just like shooting off the shelf. Again, I've been doing it for a very long time.

Everything George said. I like the cheap plastic stick-on rests. The bows I have with them on came to me that way and I chose to leave them there because they seem more accurate. I have a Kodiak Special with premium sight that came with the brush style rest. It is not quite as easy to shoot off of- any twist or torque in the string upon drawing, and the arrow falls off.

What George said. The Hoyt pro rests or whatever they are called now are very good. I always mounted mine with the bottom of it right on the self. Never had one fall off either.

On bows of mine with elevated rests I use the Hoyt stick on flipper rest. Still shooting some that the old Hoyt rests have been on since the late 60's.

I have to undo that yes rests make tuning easier. It also allows you to run vanes pretty readily without a lot of fiddling. I prefer the bear weather rest myself. Cheap simple and tough.

To say* lol auto correct fail.

While on the subject of stick on rests, does anyone remember the stick on rests made by Chuck Saunders? I used to refer to them as a "star" rest because they had a little star embossed on the outside of the rest. If anyone had some still in the package or on a card with a bunch of them I would like to buy some.

Hoyt stick on rest works great. It not only makes tuning easier but its will also cover some slight form issues because of the limited contact. Make sure to clean the bow before you stick it on n its not going anywhere.

I shot a lot of rests over the years and if you have a plunger button hole I would get a NAP center flipper rest.

After a lot of fooling around I've settled on 3 approaches, all shooting 29.5" 600 carbons.

My old 38# Hoyt target bow is fine with wire flipper and plunger (plunger adjustment is important with skinny shafts).

My favorite 60# r/d longbow has sealskin over a lump, plus sealskin plate...surprisingly durable, much better than velcro. Beautiful, too.

My Groves recurve has a simple 1/8" wide bump of thick leather glued across the shelf, and no plate at all.

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