OK - helping my big sis with some elfing duties and I’m out of my depth...

We’re most likely looking at a Samick Journey (same riser as Sage) or equivalent for BIL (I had assumed this was for my nephew, but either way...). Shooter is 6’2”.

We do have a #40 minimum for deer here, but not sure that he will get into it; so I think we should order #35 and let his DL make up the difference - not that he’d ever get checked...

Seems that most folks’ draw length is about 40% of their height, which would put him at 29.5”-30”.

I ran all of the numbers through Stu’s calculator and about blew a perfectly good sip of IPA all over the monitor - looks like his best bet would be a 2117. REALLY???

I know adding >10% to the length of a shaft will weaken it a bunch, but I’m just getting used to the idea of shooting anything as light as a 2016 from my #55@28” Hunter...

The other alternative is that I have a dozen 31” ICS Hunter 500s.... 2018 and up are out of range for Tributes, so that kind of blows my ideas about shafts for under $40/dozen right out of the water...

What are you long-draw/low-poundage guys using??

A gift certificate looks pretty good until you find out his draw length. 2117 is .400 and I'd think that may be pretty stiff for 29, maybe even for 31,

Bowmania

I use 500 spine with 100gr up front with full lengths maxima 150's

400 spine with 200gr up front.

I draw 32"

The 500 spined carbons will work the 2117 are heavy and over spined I shoot them at 53@30 A 500 spine with 145 tip and standard insert for a Samick with low stretch string.

You really need to know the archers draw length. Reason is 35#@28" will increase aprox. 2# per inch as draw increases past 28"(will also need to know how much the bow stacks). If you have arrows to try, I would start there.

Thanks, guys...

I know there’s no substitute for accurate input, but trying to incorporate SOME level of surprise here....

I think I got the 2117 when I was assuming a 31” DL... Calculator has a built-in draw force curve that adjusts for the DL you plug in, so if it was looking to match a few pounds heavier and an inch longer, that’d probably do it....

I find most follow 3 pounds per inch up to 5 depending on draw. I have gorilla arms.

2016 and 600 carbons Good luck. >>>-----> Ken

2016 and 600 carbons with a 29 1/2' draw usually end up cut about 30 1/2 Good luck. >>>-----> Ken

A lot is going to depend where he anchors for his draw length and his arm length. I am 6ft and have an honest 30 inch draw to where I anchor. Shooting a tab, 35# Journey limbs, my draw length, High Performance string, full length Easton Jazz 2016 shafts, 5 inch fletching, and 145gr points equals perfect flight for me. DANNY

Great feedback, Gents! 2016s would be perfect, because if they don’t work for him I can use them myself! LOL

Most arrows are only 32" long so with a 31" draw length you need 321/2 in to back of point so on a wood arrow you have t add 3/4 of an inch for point taper which puts you at 33"1/4 long arrow to start with.

Every bow I own is measured draw length to the shelf where it begins on the back a 32” shaft works for my 31” draw. Maybe I’m measuring wrong but they match the marked weight at 31 when drawn to the back of a point

Pretty sure that’s the AMO Standard, and why the same person will have a shorter AMO DL with LB than recurve...

Strictly speaking, I think AMO Standard for recurves is VON to deepest point of the grip +1.5”, and 1.5” from pivot to back of the bow is definitely in the ballpark for 3 or the 4 recurves on my rack. Oddly enough the ‘90 Howatt Hunter seems more than that, while a couple of pre-AMO designs are right in there...

Sounds like hookman might measure differently... probably not counting the last inch and a half...

Hey the Gold Tip Traditional Classics come in like 33" in a 500 spine. Thats what I would go with. you get some length to tune with and built in weight forward. How could you go wrong with that?

Lol, I shoot 31 inch draw with longbows and 32 with recurves. My arrows are 1/2 inch past the draw length. Now aluminums only come 32 so my recurve arrows are 32" long and I draw the broadhead to the shelf. Its working fine. If the bow you buy is 35lbs the weight could vary a bit. You're looking at about 41-44 lbs at 30" depending on bows actual weight. If you cut the arrow at 31 1/2" I would try a 2114 or 2213. I can't see needing 2117's tho.

Glad you posted that, Gary!

I realized that I had put an #8 correction into the calculator for my "personal form", and that was what pushed it to a 2117...

2213 looks dead nuts, according to Stu. Decent speed, almost 500 grains, and reasonable FOC...

This guy's not likely to go stumping, so the thin walls shouldn't be a deal-breaker......

So 2016s it is. Leave them full length to start and get a selection of field point weights from 100 grains on up. They should be tuneable for both of you and it is a good hunting shaft. - lbg

Sage risers are cut 3/16's past center. They will shoot several different spines very well.

You guys are killin’ me, but making sense, too!

Anybody know the weight of those little, glue-in nib points they use in the Jazz target arrows? Just thinking those would definitely let the shaft act a lot stiffer, and FOC is NBD for target work, right?

I shoot at 64" Samick Journey. My draw length is 30".

I use xx75 aluminum 2016 Easton Tribute shafts-full length, with 175 grain Saunders combo point, aluminum insert, 3 x 4" parabolic feather fletching.

Dead on. Works great.

I've also used Gold Tip xx500xx (blems) carbon shafts (full length), with 175 grain tips, aluminum insert. Works fine for weak/stiff.prints about 1" higher @ 20 yards than the 2016 set up above.

Gamegetter 500 shafts (full length) were a bit stiff, but not much-maybe 1.5" at 20 yards. I could've used a thinner strike plate probably to get it over a bit (I'm right handed), but the the 2016 Tribures and Gold Tip 500 arrows worked better-so I didn't bother.

Full length Easton xx75 1916 with 125-150 grain tips worked well too, just printed about 2-3" higher than the 2016 set up.

None of the above were "bad", just different. I'm actually pretty happy with the performance with all of them. All would make a softball-sized group at 20 yards in an aggregate.

I like the heavier shafts and points, because it has less gap at 20 yards. I can set the arrow impact at 20 yards to the top of my strike plate (1" above the arrow, so it is legal in IBO 3d shoots). Helps for "aiming". Either the 2016/175 or xx500xx Gold Tips/175 perform very well for my 40# Journey and 30" draw. ( with fast flight string, and a nock point about 7/8" above center).

The 64' Samick Journey or Spyder XL (southwest archery) is a great selection.

Oops, forgot to add, my Samick Journey has both 35 and 40# limbs, and the arrow set ups mentioned work for both limb weights.

GF, as we all know, selecting shafts no matter who built the calculator is a shot in the dark.

I don't know why but I seem to require a stiffer shaft than the average shooter but do know others that have the same issue as I do.

I have a BW PSA that I've been hunting with this year that is 43# at my 28" draw. I'm shooting 2117's at 29-5/8" long with standard inserts and 145 grain points. They bare shaft perfect, fly perfect and I got a pass through on a bull elk at 20 yards with that same arrow out of a BW that was 2# heavier. If I try Carbon express heritage 500's same length, point weight, they fly weak.

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