Some here have commented on the use of hobby glue sticks for mounting points. So, I tried some but they did not hold very well. It would be nice to find something that would hold like fer l Tite at a more economical cost.

Any suggestions on which one to use?

Make sure you clean residual oil out of points before mounting. I use lacquer thinner. Roughing the inside of the point with sandpaper also helps.

Hobby glue sticks have worked very good for me for a long time. Just be sure to get the part the glue is being put on gets hot enough. I've tried most of the other glue products and they all work fine and all cost more than hobby glue. About 45 years ago I tried ferrell tite. It got brittle, no give to it. The other glues give a bit to help with the shock. Heat up the metal a bit more and it will work.

There is a stick that most of the dealers sell, it comes in a lump about 1 1/2-2" in diameter. I've not found anything better, its softer than ferrule-tite but not as soft and the hobby stuff.

Bob

I tried glue gun sticks, no good. I stocked up on Fer-l-tite when it went on sale here locally. Never have to buy it again.

Best Ive found is Big Jim's. There are lots of products that work, but I have found his to go in, stay in, and then come out with just a bit of heat. Very carbon friendly!

I use the cheapest that Walmart sells, clear to opaque white ones...low temp. I can shoot heads into a tree and go dig them out with no loss. Most people blame the glue and it's mostly using too much and creating air pockets. I just use a thin skin of glue and twist the head on. Heat it a little more and twist it to spread the glue and tighten. The low temp stays pliable but bonds just fine so don't blame the glue.

I got a HUGE stick from Steve Turry (Northern Mist longbows ) at a shoot , works good and its a lifetime supply

KimShaw archery also has a good hot melt but not as economical as the big thing I got from Turry

Turay

Big Jim sells the best I've ever used and I have used a bunch of them over the years

White sticks, amber sticks, clear sticks. We had all kinds where I used to work. They were used to glue corrugated packaging. I have used them all, and never had a problem with any of them. I have some POC arrows that are 30+yrs old and the points are fine.

MP

George, do you use the high temp or low temp?

Hobby lobby has both but I'm not sure which would hold up the best.

Big Jim hear also.

Low temp. I've found it seems more pliable yet still grips. It's typical glue gun sticks...almost transparent.

I use Big Jim’s glue. Have also used the sticks Black Widow sells. I also clean the points out with Acetone or Laq thinner. Lately I have been using the brush 3Rivers sells for cleaning out and roughing up the insides of points. My latest answer to points being loose is the Top Hat screw on system, no glue but not for the budget minded.

I have used the cheap clear and opaque with good results too.

Clean inside the shaft and the outside of the insert. Screw a field tip partially into the insert (to use as a handle).

Heat the insert (not too much). You should be able to hold the field tip without burning yourself.

Heat the glue and apply it to the insert. Heat the glue on the insert until soft and quickly insert it into the shaft. Set to the side and let cool or dip in cold water if you like.

Kindly

Guys -

While the idea of using "Walmart" type glue sticks used to bother me, I've come to grips with that fact that most "archery glues" (or anything else) are basically over priced hype.

That being said, I've seen first hand a lot of people complaining about loosing glued-in heads in targets etc.

About 100% of the time it's user error.

First, you need low temp glue. The low temp part is necessary to allow time to assemble the parts and necessary for future disassembly.

Most people heat the glue stick and rub some onto the shank of the head and push it into the shaft. Not going to work. The glue has cooled enough by the time the parts come together to render the bond useless.

Some cleaning of the head/insert shank and inside of the shaft may be helpful, but I don't go too nuts.

Holing the head or insert shank in a pair of pliers, heat it. Time depends on the heating method. About 10 seconds for a kitchen stove type (my method of choice) or a little less with a torch. Yes, you can melt the head or insert. With aluminum, you can also lightly heat the shaft as well, but it's not necessary.

Touch the head or insert shank to the glue stick, and if it liquefies on touch, it's good to go. Leave a small smear on the shank. If it doesn't liquefy, continue heating and repeat.

Immediately push it into the shaft while turning it for complete coverage. Press the head against a piece of wood or similar to get it in flush. And no, this technique won't damage a carbon or wood shaft. Just use common sense.

Air cool.

Remove any excess that flowed out and yes, there should be some. You can do this is a rag while hot or with your finger nail after it's cooled.

Viper out.

Those glue sticks are mass produced in very long segments and other companies by them from the same sources and cut them to their needs. Perhaps some larger orders can get some kind of a custom mix. The best I have found is the Stanley amber. It requires a little bit more heat, nothing that any alcohol or propane torch cannot handle. I do not like the softer compounds for summer heat and firm 3D targets. I have not lost a target point or broadhead in a firm target since going to the Stanley amber stick.

In actuality its not about whether the glue is high temp or low temp, pliable or brittle. Its about the climate in which that product is used. In the Southwest where temps can exceed 100 degrees the soft stuff can and does come loose, The brittle stuff Ferrule-tite works best, but when temperatures really drop ferrule-tite can fracture like glass. There all good products, just match to the climate.

Bob

gorilla glue sticks , In the sewing and crafts section at wal- mart is what I use and never had a field point or broadhead come off in any kind of target material.

I use the stuff from BigJim also which I believe is either very similar or the same stuff as Kimsha quick stick hot melt.

The process Viper describes is the way I was taught to use hot melt 40'ish years ago.

The more the surface area the better the glue will work.

I see a lot of 1/2 tapers 'cause the point pops off.

I use a full taper.

I use a good hardware store glue stick. Apply it to the tip.

I heat the point. No cleaning.

Put it on the tip. Rotate it slightly to make sure it is properly seated. Dip it in cold water.

That's it.

More on my site.

http://traditionalarchery101.com/simplearrow.html

Jawge

kimsha glue from Nocking Point if they still carry it best glue Ive ever used. looks like small candles..

I contacted a manufacturer/distributor of hot melt glue and told them what I was wanting to use it for. They sent me a bag full of glue slugs to test. Some didn't work very well and I discarded them. After narrowing it down to 3, I did some real testing and even thought I had to make sure everything was kept separate and keep track of the numbers, it was obvious they werern't created equal.

All three slugs looked exactly alike, but in the tests, 1 failed badly and the other two were pretty close. Even still, the final winner proved to surpass all the others on all chosen materials, carbon, steel, aluminum, and wood.

We have since purchased them in sticks for convenience.

BigJim

Big Jim's glue sticks, yesir.

I use Big Jims and have had no problems with it on wood aluminum and carbon.

Throw away the glue sticks and go with go with any 2 part epoxy !!! Can't go wrong !!!! Just my 2 cents !!!

Big Jim's glue. I clean the points, heat some glue (don't burn it!), dab that around the taper on the arrow. Then I heat the point (not sizzling hot)and press it onto the shaft with pliers. Hold it long enough so the glue isn't still expanding, and backing the point off. Or, hold the point on while running a bit of cold water over it to cool and set.

Use epoxy and you will never get to change heads on those arrows again. I have used Bohning Ferr L Tite for years and not had problems, other than availability. I like being able to buy my supplies locally if I can. I switched to the hardware store hot glue sticks and have had good luck with it. I don't need Bohning stuff anymore. It's all in how you apply it. Gotta burn the oil out of the points first. I used to dip hot heads in a can of water too. You can sometimes hear the glue crack when you do and I have pulled points off with my hand after dipping. I will never do that again. Let them air cool.

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