I started another thread asking for form advice to start practicing to convert from compound to longbow...

Now I need advice on arrow selection. How do you go about finding the right wood shafts for your set-up? I figure I should have everything lined out with my equipment before I get too serious about shooting a lot.

I never see wood shafts in stores that I frequent. I doubt many clerks are going to have good advice.

Where do I start?

How do I pick?

That is an impossible question to answer. You ask "Where do I start?" you start with the bow. without that information, you can't be pointed in a correct direction.

Bob

give aromakr all you info like bow model what is wrote on the bow as for pounds and draw length. does it have fast flight string and what is your true draw with this bow. it will not be the same as your compound bows and the desired length of arrow usually 1" longer than true draw. and arrow tip weight you desire to use.

As for spine and length, yes, we need to know about you and your bow specs. For what kind of wood to buy, well, it's kind of up to you. Your basic choices are softwoods like Port Orford Cedar, Sitka Spruce, Chundoo (pine), and Douglas Fir. Then hardwoods like Ash, Hickory, Maple, and some exotic woods like Ipe. The hardwoods will generally be heavier but tougher. Cedar is "famous" for breaking more easily when hit hard but is a great classic arrow wood. Most seem to go with Douglas Fir and Spruce as they are both lighter and quite tough for wood arrows. You want to figure if you want a heavy arrow or lighter one when completed. Each type of wood has its differences that you will learn over time. My favorite is Hickory, but it has it's own characteristics that some don't like. I would suggest a set made from Fir to get started. They seem to be a great all-around shaft and fairly durable too.

Cat, when you get the bow, PM aromakr on what to get. He's the MAN when it comes to wood.

In fact, if your not building the arrows yourself, I'd get them form him!!!

Bowmania

there is a lot to learn about wood arrows I would suggest getting a book are dvd on arrow building three rivers should have one. but to get started aromakr will lead you in the write direction if you want to build your arrows i would suggest his hex pines they are good straight and tough arrows and beginner friendly (as you do not half to worry about grain and nock alignment and other factors in building good shootable wood arrows) go to his web site Whispering winds by Bob Burton.

When I get home tonight I'll post the specs on the bows I have, and my drawlength to go with it.

JMO, you may wish to go with Aluminum to start. I love a good wood arrow, but for consistency and straightness, you just can’t touch it at any remotely comparable price.

Talk to the folks at Wapiti arrows and tell them about your set up. They sent me 6 arrows in 3 diff spine ranges to try. Great folks. Surewood shafts are great too if you want heavier poc.

I might try aluminum out of ease (but it just doesn't feel right to not use wood for this project).

Wapiti sent you a sampler? Can you send back the one's that were wrong for your set-up? That would be one heck of a deal!

That chart seems spot on for my specs. Call SureWoods give them the actual specs and they will set you right. From then on order what you received that worked. Lots of luck. >>>----> Ken

Scratch -

Spine testing is kind of a destructive sampling affair! But yes, most suppliers will sell you a spine test kit so that you can experiment a bit. You can order them as raw shafts or finished arrows, and you can usually find a test kit for points as well.

Good news is that if you can provide accurate data on your bow, you’ll get a recommendation that will work for you; maybe you won’t have exactly the perfect spine, but you’ll be close enough to get yourself started. Not as if you’ll be bare- shafting right off the bat, so probably no reason to buy raw shafts unless you just want to get going with arrow-building...

pM sent.

I always suggest getting your draw length and release nailed down first. Some bows like my wife's Lost Creek NAT or my Sunset Hill will shoot a heavier spine than the dynamic charts recommend. Sometimes when switching to a modern string on a Hill one can jump ten pounds of spine over a B 50 string. When I make arrows for anyone, bow settings and shooting form tuning come before I have them shoot any test arrows. Without consistency, even test shooting arrows is a guess. However, when most bows are set up to specs and the draw and release of the individual is fairly consistent, most bows will shoot a pretty good range of spines and weights of wood arrows.

Here are the stats I found on my bows. No time tonight for measuring draw length, but I shot 27 inches with the compounds. Hope this helps.

Need true draw have someone mark arrow at the far side of shelf when you are at full draw and anchored.

I'll get a true draw length for you guys in a day or two. Pretty busy this week...

For those trying to help me out and patently waiting for me to post info... sorry this took so long. Life has a way of distracting me sometimes.

Anyway, here is what I've done; long arrow, full draw, marked on far side of shelf, measures 28inches from the end of the nock to the mark.

I've found an old set of Easton Aluminums in the closet that hasn't been cut yet. 2217 xx75's. Any chance I can use these to get me started or are they going to be over spined too much?

Thanks again guys!

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