I have a '92 Howatt Hunter that wants a super high nock point. Like, 1.25-1.5 inches. Anything lower than that and the tip porpoises up. I've tried it off the shelf and with a Bear weatherest. Tried it three under and split. It's just not happy unless the nock is that high. Is this normal or is there something wrong? (I'm shooting 400 spine carbons with 200 grain tips.)

Without more information it’s hard to say. What poundage at your draw what arrow length what string material. More than likely you are shooting an arrow that is to stiff and is giving you a false reading by bouncing off the shelf or window.

And how do you nock the arrow? Are you nocking above, or below the nock on the string?

That makes no sense to me with an elevated rest. I've set up dozens of bows and they all took about 3/8th to 1/2" above horizontal, nocking under it. Something is amiss. Are you using a bow square to measure?

Check the limb tiller. My bet is that is the issue.

I was also thinking limb tiller.

Before I checked limb tiller, I would completely rule out operator and equipment (arrow spine, finger pressure, nock tightness etc) error. Limb tiller would have to be waaaaay off, like easily visible with the naked eye to have that much impact on the nock location.

The first thing I would think is too stiff an arrow...last would be a defect in the bow. What's the bow's draw weight and your draw length? What do you have for shelf material or a rest? What is the bow braced at?

All -

I'm fairly confident on the arrow stiffness. I bare shaft tuned it and it wanted 400's. Anything stiffer or weaker and it shot nock right or left.

It's braced pretty high - up around nine (don't remember exactly). Maybe I'll walk the brace height back down and see what happens.

Limb tiller doesn't look to be off. Maybe an inch stronger on top. I'll have to check more precisely when I get time.

Last thing is the finish is starting to crack. Maybe that's affecting the strength of one of the limbs? Probably time for a refinish anyway.

Hi: It would be helpful to know the bow's draw weight and your draw length. That's almost essential in this type of discussion.

Nine inch brace is quite high for a Hunter. Mine like 7.25-7.75.

How your bareshaft's impacted is going to be affected by that.

Top limb is stronger than the bottom.

Nah, don't look at the tiller yet. That should be the LAST thing ya look at ;^) lol

1" negative tiller? That might have something to do with it.

Also, if the tiller has changed, and the timing seems to have coincided with the 'finish cracking', study that area well. Isolated areas of finish cracking and tiller change can be indicators of glass fatigue, damage, delamination, and possible impending failure. In the glass bows I've seen fail, it was first noticed in the finish, then as the glass continued to break down, that limb got weaker.

If it appears to still be safe to draw, could you take a picture of it at full draw for us?

9" brace height? Something is wrong there, but without knowing the poundage @ draw length is just guess work.

You should have 1/4 to 3/8 positive tiller.

My guess is string torque. With a lot of torque, the nocking point at the split second the release moves not only forward, but down. The rear of the arrow hits the shelf and kicks up.

I would also check nocks for tighness.

Matt, get some string the diameter of a bow string - maybe a 72ish inch boot lace. Put the tab on you your string finger and put the two free ends of the string in you bow hand between a circle created by your thumb and forefinger. Now draw the string like it was a bow, letting the string slide between your thumb and forefinger. At full draw tie an over hand knot at your thumb and forefinger.

Now you have a loop approximately twice the length of your draw length. Draw it back again with the loop riding on the life line of you bow hand and look down at anchor with you dominant eye. Is the string coming off you ring finger in the same plane as the string coming off you forefinger? If it is your free to call me an idiot. We all torque to some extent.

Bowmania

This may be a dumb question. Do you have the proper length string?

Yeah 1" difference in tiller is a lot. The Only bows I've seen like that have a hinge in the limb.

Hopefully we'll get to se a photo.

Recommended brace height for that bow is 7.5 to 8 inches. Another possibility is are you putting a lot of heel pressure (Lower part of the hand) when at draw? DANNY

How many strands in your string? (nock tightness issue?)

Tiller only takes a second to check and eliminate a problem. That is not normal at all. Your tiller measurement is not even in the ballpark. If something is not cracked or broke it can probably be fixed but you will lose draw weight. Be careful something could be about to fail. good luck. >>>----> Ken

Howat Hunters have a fairly close to 1/4". My friend has his brace at 7&5/8". That 'looks like' one inch tiller is not good. If the limb is checking in the same area, I would predict either lams are cracking up or the glue line failed.

What is your draw length? How long are your arrows?

Nock left or right is meaningless where the arrow impacts in relationship to fletched shafts can tell you something. Several things aren’t adding up first you say tiller doesn’t look bad but it’s maybe an inch stronger at top. If that’s true then something has changed since the factory as it wouldn’t have been shipped like that. Second your brace height is really high for that bow. Thirdly no one on this thread has enough information to do more than toss guesses into the wind.

Seems to have been a brace height issue. Dropped it back to 7 3/4" and the arrows fly straight again. Might need a bit of adjusting from there, but minimal. Why brace height would affect nock point is beyond me, but that's part of learning.

Thanks fellas.

Brace height affects many things including how and when the limbs unload...too high is as bad as too low.

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