From: DB
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Date: 26-Nov-17 |
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Kodiak special with a bottom limb that has about 8" on one side laminations separated, any cure for this ?
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From: SB
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Date: 26-Nov-17 |
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Inject the area with Locktite 420 and lightly clamp.
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From: fdp
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Date: 26-Nov-17 |
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Hard to say without seeing it. Depends on where the separation is located on the limb, what caused it etc.. Instinctively with that much separation, that's getting close to half the working length of that limb, I'd say no.
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 26-Nov-17 |
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What Frank said, and it's really difficult to get enough glue in there without leaving a small void. You could try is, but sounds iffy.
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From: twostrings
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Date: 26-Nov-17 |
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If you're gonna try iffy I would bind the glued limb and wear shooting glasses. Please let the fire know it goes.
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From: yorktown5
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Date: 27-Nov-17 |
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To echo Frank and George, WHERE makes a big difference IE no flex area vs. high flex spot on the limb. I would not follow SB's advice in this case. 420's effectiveness is in void filling on non-flex areas.
The two common follow up problems are:
1. Making the repair in a way that limits/alters how the fixed limb bends in relation to the other limb, and
2. The repair can be stronger than the original glue on the rest of the limb. Driving bending forces elsewhere and the most often encountered failure is that the repair held but the limb fails someplace else.
R.
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From: JamesV
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Date: 27-Nov-17 |
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If this is a flex area, super glue will not hold. If you can flex the limb backwards and open the delam a little, Use a hacksaw blade with the teeth ground off to force smooth-on into the crack. Then clamp until cured. If it doesn't hold, nothing lost. Be sure to tape up the limb to keep the glue off the finish
James
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From: DB
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Date: 27-Nov-17 |
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JamesV, what is smooth- on ?
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From: dean
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Date: 27-Nov-17 |
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A few years back I was brought a one piece Bingham bow, that was from the vintage when they made blanks, that was in three pieces. He had borrowed it to someone and they got in wrestling match trying get the string on it and lost. With a lot of creative gluing and clapping and wrapping I got it back together, but I had to completely re-tiller it. The bow is still shooting after a number of years. Refitting a bow that blew the limbs off of the riser is one thing, an eight separation in the working part of the limb is something much trickier. The crack could be more than the visible separation. I would suggest a new bow.
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From: Bowlim
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Date: 27-Nov-17 |
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Smooth on is the usual epoxy for bow building, and it is really thick, sorta like 5 minute often is, you put it on with a spatula, not a brush, hard stuff to get into hairline cracks.
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Delamination normally refers to failure in the glue lines. The problem there is you have glue in the crack, and it doesn't bond well to fresh epoxy. It will be a mechanical, not a chemical bond, and you won't be able to get in there and rough it up even. When you have a limb split in the wood, you have the potential of a repair that will be 100 percent, assuming the split is really shallow angle, any breaking across fibers and you have little chance of repairing it, just as you can't successfully butt joint laminations (you can in a handle, but that area doesn't bend much or at all.
Plus all the other problems others have indicated.
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From: raghorn
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Date: 27-Nov-17 |
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Do not use Lock tite. Smooth-o can be thinned by warming the glue. The delamination needs to be cleaned as well as possible- blow out with air, pick out loose but attached pieces. Hammer the end of a paper clip really, really flat- about the size of a pea. This little tool will help work the glue in to the area. Flex the limb or press and release the area to sorta pump/move the glue into all voids. Clamp lightly, not too tight or all the glue will be squeezed out creating a dry joint. Let set at room temp for a few days. Smooth-on is a slow set epoxy so you have time to work. I built a bow in 1985 that later delaminated at the fade out. I repaired as described above and it it is still shooting today
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From: DB
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Date: 28-Nov-17 |
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I found some Smooth on.. gonna give it a try, thank you to all who responded !!!
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From: nibler
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Date: 03-Dec-17 |
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nibler is a Stickbow.com Sponsor - Website |
use 4lb test monofilament fishing line passed through the split to work the smooth-on down into the tightest portions-gently opening and closing the gap in order to pump the adhesive into the repair---it works real well and will not snag on the fibers--good luck!
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From: bowhunt
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Date: 04-Dec-17 |
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Where do you guys like to get your smooth on?
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From: Randy
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Date: 04-Dec-17 |
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I purchased mine from Bingham Archery. I was able to get a smaller amount. I was not sure how much it would take for my project of splicing 2 billets together. I still have lots left.
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From: fdp
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Date: 04-Dec-17 |
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Doesn't matter where you buy it. You can get it from umpteen different places, including directly from the manufacturer.
IF I were going to try a repair like that *which I wouldn't) I would never choose Smooth -On unless I was going to heat it first to get it really thinn. It's too thick.
One of the thin System 3 products would be much better for that application.
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From: camodave
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Date: 04-Dec-17 |
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The only way I would try to repair a delaminated limb and continue shooting the bow is I knew exactly why it delaminated in the first place. And there is really no way to know why any limb delaminates.
DDave
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