Got my aluminum shafts in the mail today. I always shot carbons. I think I may already be regretting the decision. These feel like they will bed very easily. Inly one way to find out i guess

I have aluminum arrows that are older than my oldest son and he is 24. So there's that.

What size did you get? What’s your bow? What spine carbons are you replacing?

Personally, I’m rediscovering all that there is to like about ‘luminum now that I’m using the right size.

I got 1916s shot out of a SK at 50 pounds at 28. I only draw 26 to 27 at the most. I like to shoot at a lot of dumb stuff and stump shooting so we will see how long they last

Fishgut, for stumping and shooting at "dumb stuff' I do that too by the way, I've said before and still say you aren't going to find anything in that spine range tougher than an 1820. The small diameter and .020 wall make one tough little shaft. The 1916's will serve you well however.

The tolerance in the production are far easier to control with Aluminum. The straightness...grain weight and spine are more precise and consistent. Although the carbons have come light years from what they were before.

There is nothing wrong with aluminum. They do bend some but that's part of the game. Keep your eyes open for an arrow staightener in the classifieds. I have killed a bunch of game with aluminum and still do when I take a notion. I shoot mainly woodies anymore though.

John

Aluminum arrows have many good things going for them.Not the least of which is they're the safest to shoot.Just get one of those 3 point hand straighteners a small tube cutter and you'll be good to go.

Well frankly they will make you get more accurate more quickly, so you don't shoot at dumb stuff. And, you are drawing closer to 46 or 47 pound and that shouldn't be so damaging to quality aluminum like the XX75 material. I've shot my aluminum in to stumps and had to dig them out and they were still straight.

The worst thing for any alloy, or even composite shafts is a glancing hit off a tree or other object where the side is struck. That is what will bend aluminum and crush a carbon or fiberglass shaft. A little common sense is good when out stumping. If all you have is rough country, and you can't hit your shots well, then carry a couple arrows that are already slightly bent, or get yourself some rubber blunts like the old black HTM.

My only composite arrows are older Microflite fiberglass, otherwise I shoot aluminum. And as fdp said, the thicker walls will help also but you need to make sure you have the right tune.

I use aluminum and wood I like the aluminum for 3-D (tolerances and ease of pulling out of foam) the wood (Douglas Fir (Sherwood shafts) )hold up better for shooting "Dumb" stuff; which I shoot alot of -

I like aluminum just fine. Some spine/diameter combos bends easier than others, but if they are tuned and fly straight (read hit straight on), they are plenty tough. I've had 2018s take a serious beating without being damaged. Tolerances are beyond our shooting abilities, they are relatively inexpensive and you have tons of spine/weight options.

I have done a ton of stumping with 1916's and sustained very little arrow damage, despite hitting green stumps and gravel banks. Tin arrows are tougher than you think.

Be sure and get some judo points for stumping. I have been using the same 2016 arrows for years stumping and rarely ever bend one. The spring loaded arms on the judos help a lot.

Like anything else, aluminum shafts have a lot of advantages and some disadvantages. Also, like anything else, you have to use them wisely. Don't go shooting them into a live tree or a hard stump because they will bend. Shoot softer targets like rotten stumps, 3d deer, block targets, hay bales etc. Blow a shot and hit a rock, angle iron or 4x4, yes, you might ruin an arrow. Replacing arrows is part of the game and aluminum arrows are the easiest to build. All you need to do is have a few shafts and some parts on hand and you can make more. If you don't like that, dont buy them.

Aluminums can take a lot of abuse but they do bend when hitting rocks and such. Part “of the game” years ago before carbons was learning to straighten aluminum arrows to be shootable agian. I have one of those fancy dial straighteners like in another post here. But did 99% of my straighting with the pliers type straighteners and my hands. It’s not rocket science but does take some patience. If they work out for stumping I would keep a lookout for used arrows. Deals can be had from guys clearing out their arrow boxes.

I just went back to aluminum from carbon and just like them better in every way. Like you I have a short draw and they allow me to cut them down and still keep the weight where I want them. Lots more spine choices too.

Foot them and they are really tough. I added an indicator to the straightener and if they are not kinked or severely dented they straighten up good as new.>>>---> Ken

What size to foot 18, 19 & 20? Looks like a 2114 is pretty close for a skinny carbon....

How are you footing aluminum? Another piece of aluminum over the front will just give it a spot to bend behind the foot. I could see using inserts of carbon behind the inserts to resist bending versus a short piece on the outside.

Incidentally, there's a dead white oak about fifty yards deep in my woods behind the house. I have shot 2016 into it many times with no ill effect. Hits that are dead on are not so much an issue, even on hard woods. It's just not a smart idea to do it all the time when there are softer targets out there.

The same as carbon. Just to beef up the area that is penetrating. It beefs up the area where you are working it out of the stump. You are right it just moves the weak point farther to the rear. Can't say how much it helps but I haven't busted one. I would never do better target arrows or hunters just knock around arrows. The .016 &.018 wall arrows are pretty tough. the .020 even better. I don't buy arrows for stumping though. All the old patched up shafts find there way to the knock about quiver. I have a couple of patched up stumpers in the quiver now if I can make a picture work. I even increase the length some on arrows that may be a little short.Dowel inside piece of shaft outside. Picture not working I will keep trying. Good luck,>>>----> Ken

Let's see if this works.

Finally. Notice battered points. Be sure to chamfer both ends of footing for entrance and extraction. Hope that helps.>>>--->Ken

Thanks Ken.

Thanks fellas what's the next closest spine to the 1916s I have that are thicker walled? 2016s?

No, those are the same wall thickness. First 2 numbers are the diameter in inches. Next 2 numbers are the wall thickness in thousands. Example--- 1916 is 19/64 19 divided by 64= .2968 diameter/19/64 16 is .016 thousands thick. If you want to know the inside diameter of any shaft double the wall thickness and subtract it from the Diameter. 1916 - - .016x2 = .032 .296 - .032 is .264 the size of the I.D. .264=17/64 It is really easier than it sounds. Just hard to explain. They should write it 19/64--.016 instead of 1916 If you are more confused PM me so we won't have to bug every one with the formulas.Take Care, >>>----> Ken

Sorry I had that spaced out like math problems and it lumped it all together. I know that makes it even more confusing.>>>----> Ken

Sorry I had that spaced out like math problems and it lumped it all together. I know that makes it even more confusing.>>>----> Ken

The next closest aluminum arrow to the 1916 is the 1820. The 1916 is 51lbs, and the 1820 is 53lbs. 2016 as mentioned has the same wall thickness as a 1916, therefore isn't a bit more durable.

"Keep your eyes open for an arrow straightener in the classifieds."

IMHO, the only straightener worth money is Straight-n-arrow. When the rush began for carbons, I started searching for aluminum straighteners. Of course, they are getting scarce by now. I've thought about collecting them as items of a bygone era.

Been doing this longer then most. started at 7.Graduated to a bear Kod Maf @45. I shot Fiberglas as they were crap but I did not knoW it at the time.during my 8th grade I had to decide on a Bear take down @50. The wood or the death Ray magnisium. You know what this 14 yr old did. getting smarter I went to Alu and my world changed. Now here is the funny thing. I shot so good with those alu. How ever by luck i shot high/low on deer. swithed to those Sloth woods and killed deer. No explanation or reason. The trend continues and I am 60 now.

first Mule deer ever. sloth of a 650 grain doug fir. I intended to take my lazer 2216s and on targets I even impress myself.

I use aluminum for everything except shooting at "dumb stuff". That's when I break out the stumpers made from oak dowels.

If you have already registered, please

sign in now

For new registrations

Click Here