Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


How much weight loss with shorter draw

Messages posted to thread:
tagman 21-Nov-17
ground hunter 21-Nov-17
GF 21-Nov-17
Dkincaid 21-Nov-17
fdp 21-Nov-17
Valley Scout 21-Nov-17
Tboughty 21-Nov-17
camodave 22-Nov-17
Pdiddly 22-Nov-17
tagman 22-Nov-17
GF 22-Nov-17
Bernie P. 22-Nov-17
George D. Stout 22-Nov-17
GF 22-Nov-17
bradsmith2010 22-Nov-17
bradsmith2010 22-Nov-17
Bowmania 22-Nov-17
Kodiak 22-Nov-17
From: tagman
Date: 21-Nov-17




How much weight loss would one expect with a 26" draw with a bow that is spec for 60# at a 28" draw? 5lbs, 10 lbs?

From: ground hunter
Date: 21-Nov-17




George or Bowmania would know, but I think you would be at about 56lbs with that set up

From: GF
Date: 21-Nov-17




Depends on the force draw curve for that bow (some are designed to stack quickly once you get past the intended DL) but the rule of thumb is 2-3 LBs/inch.

If you know your DL (accurately measured to AMO standard), Stu Miller’s calculator can be useful.... For my bows (all marked #50 or #55@28”), the calculator says I’m losing about #5 from marked weight with a 26.5” DL...

Anyway, I’d guess about 10%...

From: Dkincaid
Date: 21-Nov-17




Depending on design you’d lose 3# per inch ish

From: fdp
Date: 21-Nov-17




What DKincaid said.

As a rule, (and I've done force draw curves on dozens, and dozens of bows of all types) you can take 28" subtract the brace height, and divide the draw weight by that number.

For example, a 60lb.@28" bow with an 8" brace height actually moves the string 20". Divide 20 in to 60, and you get the 3lbs. per inch DKincaid mentioned.

It will work every time, on any draw weight, and as a general rule will hold true until you get over 30" in draw length. After that, it can get squirrely. There CAN be some exceptions with straight end bows as well, but not as much as many folks would lead you to believe.

That formula will get you so close to exact that you can easily choose arrows based onactuak centershot or lack of (that means measuring with the tickness of whatever you have on the side plate/sight window included, not how the bowyer built it) and string type.

From: Valley Scout
Date: 21-Nov-17




Yep, what they said. 2-3 pounds per inch depending on design of bow. A total loss of 5 pounds is probably a good guess, but no where near 10.

From: Tboughty
Date: 21-Nov-17




I've seen 5% per inch lost which seems about accurate for me. I also draw 26" and about 10% lost on 28" draw seems pretty accurate for me. At 40-60# weights this seems to run pretty true for me anyways.

fdp's formula seems like it would hold true as well.

From: camodave
Date: 22-Nov-17




Until an archer has absolutely repeatable form their draw length can easily vary by as much as an inch unless they are using a clicker. As people have said that inch can make a difference of as much as 3 pounds of draw weight. And even 3 pounds is not a lot to be concerned about. I have pretty consistent form and I doubt I can tell my actual draw weight on any given shot to within 2 pounds. A very wise bowyer friend who has shot a lot of arrows for a lot of years once told me "your draw length is whatever feels comfortable for you at the moment".

DDave

From: Pdiddly
Date: 22-Nov-17




It will be from 4-6#.

That being said, the best way to tell is buy a bow scale. It's an essential tool because you need to know what draw weight the bow actually is and it's often not what's printed on the riser.

First thing I do when I am setting up a bow is to check the draw weight, using the 1.75" from the pivot point rule. Many are not accurately scaled.

Once I know the correct draw weight I start selecting arrows.

From: tagman
Date: 22-Nov-17




Thanks everyone for the info. Much appreciated.

From: GF
Date: 22-Nov-17




ROFL....

I had thought about explaining my theory that you could divide the poundage (as marked) by the power stroke (as marked) and calculate the #/”.... but I thought surely I must be missing something....

From: Bernie P.
Date: 22-Nov-17




Around 3-4 lbs per inch.However the fps loss from the shorter draw will be significant.

From: George D. Stout Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 22-Nov-17




If you have a 26" draw and shoot a 60# bow, you will pull around 54/55 pounds. If you have a 28" draw and shoot a 54/55 pound bow, you will pull the same weight but have two more inches of power stroke (distance that the string applies force to the arrow), so you would get more performance over all from that longer power stroke. When you dismiss the gozintos though, you still have plenty of power for any game in this and many other countries.

From: GF
Date: 22-Nov-17




Two thoughts:

1) Your DL is your DL and there’s not much you can do about it; with a 26” arrow I can pull the head back onto the shelf, but at 5’ 4”, I’m pretty well maxed out.

2) Larry Hatfield has me questioning the payoff of a longer DL; he designed/built a single bow that set a flight record at #50 and also when “short drawn” to just #30.

Flight arrows allow limbs to get a lot closer to dry-fire speed a lot quicker than a hunting arrow, so that’s a consideration, I expect, but I believe that was in the broadhead class.

In any case, I think there are grounds for thoughtful skepticism on that whole “length = power” argument.... Just enough for me to be able to let go of worrying about anything about which I can do nothing anyway.,.,

From: bradsmith2010
Date: 22-Nov-17




you will loose about 5 as stated,,1 fps per pound,, so if the bow is shooting 180 now,, you can expect bout 175,,, enough to kill anything,, signifigant,,??? for me not a big deal,, you could make that up with a clean relaase etc etc etc,, try it on a deer ,, and let us know,,

From: bradsmith2010
Date: 22-Nov-17




well ok I stand corrected, would be a bit more, with shorter power stroke, ,my bad

From: Bowmania Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 22-Nov-17




55.2746 Pounds.

Bowmania

From: Kodiak
Date: 22-Nov-17




54.132667 pounds at 26"





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