I'm wanting to try aluminum arrows. I have a 50 at 28 inch bear SK and I draw 26 to 27 inches. I am real confused about the numbers on the arrows. In wanting to shoot 150 grain tips on them. Anybody have any suggestions?

2016's

everybody is a little different and bow/string type etc

but I shoot 2016 out of bows that weight (47-50 #'s) with 175 grain points and a 26" draw

I'd guess 2016 as well, leave them a touch long at first.

How do you gents cut them?

Tube cutter

1916 145-175 gr point

2016's 30" 185grains I draw 27'

On longbows I draw 26.5" right handed for my former 51 pound Robertson longbow a modern string, 1918s with one piece ferrules, 160 grain broadheads,cut to 27" bop, were the perfect arrow. The 2016 is slightly stiffer and the SK is slightly more center shot. You may need to cut a bit shorter than 28" and keep the total end weight down a little. I shoot 28" 1918s with 135 target points quite often. For arrows cut 27" bop I use 175 grain screw in target points. The one piece ferrule adapter is much lighter in total weight than the standard screw in insert plus adapter. Out my former SK that 57.5" at 27", I shot 2018s, 27" bop with 175 grain target points and 135 grain broadheads with the standard 40 grain screw adapter.

Sometimes cheap tube cutter, cut off saw if it's already set up from doing carbon.

How much do you want your finished arrow to weigh?

How important is durability to you?

And what about price?

The three most likely sizes are 2016, 1916 and 2013; I have a comparable DL to yours and shoot a 2016 from recurves marked #5 heavier.... using 125 grain points. Same arrow shoots pretty well from a #55 long is and a #50 Flatbow (basically just like a recurve, but a lot less hook in the limb form).

2016 are arguably too stiff for the latter two, but an aggressive fletching job can mask a variety of ills...

If you are planning to do careful bare-shaft tuning and are willing to mess with point weights, I’d get 4-6 shafts in each size that you want to test; if you just want a Close Enough solution, I'd go with 2016 and get large, helical fletchings on them.

If you want a fine-tuned system, you can try 1916s or 2013s; 2016 and 1916 can be had for less than $3/shaft, but the 2013s only come in Camo Hunters and Platinum series, which are costlier. And the wood-grain silk-screened Legacies only come with a XX16-wall tubing.

BTW, if nobody beat me to it...

Tubing sizes: first 2 numbers are the outside diameter of the tubing in 64ths of an inch; 20-series is 20/64 = 10/32 = 5/16”; 11/32” = a 22-series tube, it all of those are too stiff for your bow ( I know this because I’ve tried them all, and none of them worked right!).

If you decide to try 1916s, you’ll need some 9/32” nocks.

Keep asking questions as they come up!

I have a tube cutter for breaklines. Nice! Do you guys but brass inserts in them? My carbons have brass inserts in them

I have had a problem with aluminum. If you use the hardwear store tube cut, they work fine, but a round file to trim the bur they create on the inside is really helpful. All final arrow selections can vary depending on how crisp or fluffy your release is. On the Stu charts I can never go with what it says without adding 10 points to the personal number. I have other friends that need to subtract 5 to get accurate results from the dynamic chart. There is no harm in needing to adjust that number.

If you're using Dacron B50, you can probably go with 1916 or 2016. May have to add little weight to 2016 drawing 26-27 inches with B50 string.

I misread the original post, a 50 pound SK at 26" would require an arrow for a 45 pound bow.

If you mean total point weight of 150 grains and have a fast flight style string you will want to start with a 1916.

2016s are always a little stiff for me. I like 2013s cut to 29" with 175 gr. Points. That is not a very durable arrow, but man does it fly good! I shoot 45-50 lbs drawn somewhere around 27".

2114

Sorry I want to keep my broadheads i have now which are 150 grain. I draw lets say 26.5 inches and my SK is 50 pounds.

The 3 rivers chart has 28" 1916s with 150 grain points just slightly stiff with the 50 pound SK with a fast flight drawn to 26.5".

At your draw length with a 150g point & FF type string, I'd go with a 2016.

On the tube cutter....they work fantastic. Pick one up at almost any hardware store. When you start to cut, let the tube cutter take its time. Tighten VERY little at a time and make several rounds before tightening a VERY little more before making more rounds. if you over tighten with the cutter you can damage the shaft, essentially denting/crushing it. Let the cutter take its time and you'll get perfect cuts.

Might also take a look at the NASP 1820 shafts, they should be a touch weaker then the 2016 and you can find them everywhere.

I'd probably go with 1916s although you could make 2016s work too.

1820's and leave them 28" long.

2114a cut to 28 or 2016s to 30.

God bless, steve

Sorry going to be a b50 string if that makes any difference

I draw 27" and all my 50lb bows shoot a 29.5" 2016 perfectly. I shoot 145 to 160 grain points. Stock inserts. They fly like darts.

It does.

2114s are too stiff for me with a #55 Howatt Hunter, but YMMV..,

By the way - what length are your arrows/ what length do you want them to be?

Fish -

29" 1916s with a 125 - 145 grain head. If you form is good, they will be slightly over spined.

Viper out.

Brad, I just bought an 1820 to test out. Gotta fletch it up.

I've shot a lot of different spine Al thru the years but I've never tried the Genesis 1820. It spines at 592, in between a 2016 and 1916. It weighs about the same as a 2018 grain wise.

No brass inserts that I have seen. But maybe the ones from 5/16 carbons would fit? If you want weight forward you goin need heavy broadheads or inserts you can add weight on back end of. Think GT carbons weight system. I would also suggest a test kit. Whenever your draw is under or over 28” and your wanting a certain weight IMO it’s best to start with a kit.

I must be real old school. I had a shop/lanes from 1964 thru 1982.. The biggest selling arrow for draw lengths of 27 thru 30 & 45 to 60#s was a 2117 & 125 thru 150 gr heads (traditional & compound). 1916s were used in the 40# range if memory serves me right.. I currently draw just under 28" 50# Longbow & use a 2117 cut 29" with 125gr head. They shoot great. Not disputing anyone as I haven't looked at a chart in years. I also have 1913s, cut 29", 125 gr head I shoot out of a 60# compound for "target" shooting up to & including 80 yds. I do this shaft to get the distance. I use a 2216 or 2219 out of the same Compound to hunt with as I want a heavy arrow. They ALL shoot great.

My arrows now are 28 long.

To answer the brass insert question, only if you need the weight to adjust for the weight heads you are using. I don't like to go under .016 wall they bend too easy.Good luck, >>>----> Ken

I find it interesting that folks never mention 1820's in these situations. They are inexpensive, easy to get your hands on, small diameter, tougher than all get out, spine 53lbs., and are plenty heavy for a hunting arrow in the 45 to 55lb. or a little more range.

Old habits I guess......

Sky's sight window is cut pretty deep. You shouldn't have any problems with 1916 and ur 150 points.

Spell screwup, spell check is the wrong name,lol. That's not sky but SK's

Ur bows gonna be 46 lbs if the marked weight right you should be fine with ur 150gns

2016 fly Great for me, 28 inch

I'm anxious to try the 1820 shaft I bought. Just have to fletch it up, it weighs about the same as a 2018 grain wise.

I have shot aluminum arrows for 42 yrs, like fdp said,can't believe I haven't tried the 1820. Sliped by me I guess.

With all of these numbers I could go with any of them lol I'm going to tally them up and see what number pops up the most. Might look up the 1820s too

Fish - you can tally all the #'s you want a 2016 spines 60#'s @28 and you are not close. I would listen to Viper with the 1916.

Guys -

When Easton brought back the 1820s as Genesis arrows, no mention was made about components (heads) other than the supplied one piece heads.

3 Rivers had something that was usable, but haven't kept up with them. Are inserts now available?

Viper out.

T - 3rivers has 1820 inserts available.

Yes, 3 Rivers has inserts. I just recieved a dz.

3rivers does, also recently bought a couple dozen on ebay much cheper for the 1820.

I've got my first sub 50# in the works, hoping it will like the 1820s or 2016s I've been putting back for this occasion. I've never been able to get a 2016 to shoot off a #50+ bow, but I like skinny strings and high performance bows, and need about a 29" arrow guess thats why.

Viper is spot on as usual. I have a 50@28 SK, I draw 28 and a 29 inch 1916 with 125 point works well.

Lot depends on if the bow is cut to center, low stretch or b50 string, archers release and how the bow performs.

2016,2016,2016

Listen to Viper...my draw length is an inch longer than yours and I use 1916's with 135 grain heads with the shaft cut to 28"...this works on a dozen recurves including a SK that was 50#.

The 1820 would be OK but the 1916 would be flatter trajectory.

A 2016 is too stiff and a 2114 is simply off the charts!

Nobody mentioned 2014's. Not common but they might be the thing.

2016's *if* left long and heavy up front. Have to take center shot & side plate thickness into account also.

Bottom line is, there are several shafts that would work well, depending on what you're willing to do to *make* them work.

I'll be the odd man out. Bear Grizzly 50# drawn to 26". I shoot 1816s full legth with 145 grain Zwickeys.

Guys -

Thanks for the info. The 1820s, and 1918s, 1718s, etc, where std offerings from Easton in the past, as were xx16 shafts in X7 grade. They stopped making those, and I can only guess due to a lack of interest in shafts that heavy.

2013 and 2014s are stiffer, but could be tune-able However, you're dealing with a thinner wall and 2014s are only available in X7s.

Viper out.

Availability is probably why I settled on the 2016. Shooting heavier points makes it work for most of my bows and you can find them in several different price ranges and grades of shaft from more suppliers.

2016's with 145 on front that's what I like.

Same as RymanCat!

My experience has been that the 2114 is more versatile than the "charts" indicate. Lots of options though, eh?

I shoot a 68" longbow, 50# @ 28" My draw length is 30" and I use 125 gr Magnus 2 blade broadheads. I use 2117s with great success.

Jack Howard use to say that the 2114 Easton Aluminum arrow was the most versatile arrow on the market. They work great in my 42 to 50 pound bows at my 28 inch draw, cut to 29". My next choice would be 2016's. Good luck and good shooting.

I am using 2114 arrows cut to 29” with 125 grain points from my 48# recurve that is cut to center. It does have acarbon back and I am using FF string material. Only complaint is combo is a little noisy.

Thanks fellas I'm going to go with viper and try the 1916s with a 150 grain head should put me right around Where I need to be if the arrow is 29 inches. Thanks a bunch now I just need to try to find them

Looking at arrows on Lancaster websight and they have black game better arrows for a little cheaper than the xx75 camo hunters they have a 500 spine arrow will these work as well at the 1916s or should i just go with the camo 1916s?

There is also the eastion tribute for 3 bucks an arrow it doesn't include nocks or inserts not sure if these would be a good deal if I bought the nocks and inserts seperetly

Usually getting nocks and inserts included is more affordable. I still say 2016 with 145 grain screw in heads will be perfect. I shoot them ( my draw is also 27") from 50#@28" recurves and longbows all the time, fly like darts for me. I have killed a number of deer with them as well, great penetration.

Fishgut the black GG 500's are 2016's

Jack Howard's famous quote notwithstanding, 2114's may be versatile but with .510 deflection they are between and 2016 and 2018 in spine which is way, way too heavy for 45# draw. That's just physics.

I love 2114's but use them on mid to high 50's (54-59) draw weight recurves with my 27" draw and the arrows cut to 28". Heads are 145 grains. That's a set-up where 2114's sing.

Heavier spined arrows that some recommend can be made to work in a mediocre fashion but the fletch is often covering up tuning issues and even then these defects show up at ranges over 20 metres.

As one poster said, "...an aggressive fletching job can mask a variety of ills."

it shouldn't.

Bareshaft some of these recommendations and the arrows would be hitting the target sideways!

The tributes will shoot great in your bow and save you some money.

I ordered a set of 1916s to try. Going to start them long and one down until I get it shooting a 150 grain tip. I figured im only crawling 46 or so pounds so we will see thanks for all the suggestions. If these don't fly well I will order some 2016s to try out.

The shafts are one component but you have other tools. If the 1916s turn out a bit weak you can replace the sideplate with something thicker. It takes a little experimenting but that will work just fine. Fred Bear used to tune his bow to the arrow he wanted to use in this way.

It’ll depend on the cut of the shelf, but if you have any trouble tuning into the 1916, you might try 125-grain points and trade off your broadheads....

I know you said you wanted to use what you have, but by the time you’ve increased to a 2016 AND a 150, that’s going to be a pretty hefty arrow for #46.... If you’re committed to keeping your shots to 10-15, I suppose it doesn’t matter too much, but if you are comfortable at 20-ish, it’s nice to keep them on s tighter string.....

Think I’m going to end up with 1816s for my #46-ish longbow... Wouldn’t surprise me if you could shoot an 1816 with a 100-125 point and stay pretty close to 400 gr all-up... Bows in this class are why they invented the Eskilite and the Ace high- speed....

X2 what Phil said. The 1916's will be tuneable...and there are many ways to do so.

2016 or 2117.

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