Would 1816 or 2013 be suited for a 38 to 40 lb target recurve with 27 in draw and elevated rest? For 20 yard indoors only.

Seems like it.

1816 would be fine if you leave them long.

You could make either work. The 2013 would give you a wider diameter for those shots close to the line. ))

2013 my favorite

2013, very accurate arrow. My favorite as well.

If the poundage was more like 38 would 1913,s be a better choice. Icould always cut th e m down for a stiffer arrow. Im trying to move my poi to the right. The only way i can figure is to go with a weaker shaft than what i have.

FWIW, the 2013 is stiffer than a 1916, so if the debate is 1816 and you want lighter spine, 1816 would be the thing...

Stu’s calculator puts a 28” 1816 at #41.9, dynamic (145 up front); 2013 comes in at #56.5....

All else equal, a 1916 comes in at #53.1.

1914 - #50.0

1913 - #44.9

1813 - # 35.9

1716 - # 33.6

Add #10 to each of those for a 100 grain point; or about #5 for a 125

daryl, 1816's is all I use. I'm shooting a 68" Carrolls td 36@27". They fly perfect. At a informal practice last week I shot a 471/600 barebow.

DP -

29" 1816s /w NIBB points. Tune to taste.

I generally don't go below 14/1000" walls.

Viper out.

Thankyou guys. Im going to try the 1816 platinums

Unless you want to avoid carbons, i would recommend the cx predator ii. I usen them full length w 38 grain insert and 100 fp in my PIKA which i draw to about 37#s. Im really liking them so far.

Therifleman, Daryl specifically asked about two sizes of aluminum. If I was shooting indoor league, that's what I would be shooting as well. They are much more consistent in spine and weight than any other material.

Yes, i did read that he was looking at two different sizes of alum. Just thought he would be interested in available options ( forgot to mention the cxs are 800 spine). Please disregard and my apologies for going off topic-- i tend to do that sometimes. On the subject of alum. I needed 1716s full length to work in my bow described above.

If I had to redo my 45# hunting rig I'd change my 1916 to 1816 arrows. Lighten them up a bit to get 9 gpp. Speedier arrow helps in accuracy and consistency for me. Can only speak for myself on that matter.

Doesn't pertain to you exactly but I've always thought my 1916s felt to stall out at 30 yards, the shots don't feel as good and have to think about my shot harder. One reason why I heavily rely on a 65# and 2117, that 9 gpp is a magic number to me... makes me wonder how 7 gpp would be for target, probably launching a rocket.

GPH -

Ah, maybe. Agree that 9gpp is a pretty good number, but you didn't mention arrow length or head weight.

With a 29" arrow and nominal head weights and assuming a modern recurve, 1816s would be on the weak side. If you wanted more speed than the 1916s, go to 1914s. Same weight as the 1816s, but stiffer in spine. Only problem is that you'll pay more, since they are only available in X7s.

A 29" 1816/1914 with a target point (NIBB) would be about 7.78 gpp and yes, they will work nicely ;)

Viper out.

Not to jack the thread, but what size (glue-on) nock do you use for 18s and 19s?

GF -

1/4", 9/32", respectively. Yes, there's wiggle room.

Viper out.

Heres my 1816 Platinum 27 3/4. With a 70 gr nibb that I added approx. 25gr too. Total arrow wt. 405 on my old Martin scale. Three 3" parobolic left wing fletch and a clear four inch wrap.

Thanks, Tony!

Don’t know where I got this aversion that I have to skinny arrows, but boy, are there a lot of choices out there for a shorter-draw shooter pulling #45-low 50s....

As long as you don’t mind ‘em slim.

Oops, guess I didn't viper.

125 head and 29 3/4 length. They're about 475 grains i think. 10 1/2 gpp is definitely nothing to shake a stick at but I just can't get enough speed out of them to satisfy the performance I want out of them.

After shooting a 65# bow with 580 grain arrows: its hard for me to go back to something that I didn't fully like.

Definitely will look into my options though when it comes time to buy new arrows. But got to run out of the 1916s first. Granted they are a tough little bugger.

GPH - I can’t imagine an 1816 being stiff enough for that poundage at that length... I’m thinking 1816s (125) for my Viper, but at about 28”... It’s #50@28.

I did run the numbers on Stu’s calculator for an 1814; I should be able to swing that at 27 3/4” if I run a 100 up front and come out in the 325-350 range.

ZZZZIPPP!!

I'm shooting the 2013's. Love them. cut 29" and 125Gr up front. Simple and works. Fast and flat.

For indoor league, I shoot a Bear "A" Riser with #1 40lb limbs. The 2013 is my favorite arrow for this set-up.

2013

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