Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


Poi/poa

Messages posted to thread:
Daryl Pelfrey 11-Nov-17
Daryl Pelfrey 11-Nov-17
George D. Stout 11-Nov-17
Daryl Pelfrey 11-Nov-17
Daryl Pelfrey 11-Nov-17
GF 11-Nov-17
Daryl Pelfrey 11-Nov-17
The Whittler 11-Nov-17
Viper 11-Nov-17
2 bears 11-Nov-17
GF 11-Nov-17
Hal9000 11-Nov-17
Jim Casto Jr 12-Nov-17
Jim Casto Jr 12-Nov-17
Bill C 12-Nov-17
From: Daryl Pelfrey
Date: 11-Nov-17




With a target rig or any bow really.If the arrow is hitting about 2 in left of center would reccommend increasing point weight or moving the rest closer to the riser?Am i righ in thinking if i add tip weight the spine will react weaker there fore hit more to the right? Or maybe I should go to aluminums instead of carbons for target since they should be easier to change spine by length or weight changes. What ya say Viper

From: Daryl Pelfrey
Date: 11-Nov-17




With a target rig or any bow really.If the arrow is hitting about 2 in left of center would reccommend increasing point weight or moving the rest closer to the riser?Am i righ in thinking if i add tip weight the spine will react weaker there fore hit more to the right? Or maybe I should go to aluminums instead of carbons for target since they should be easier to change spine by length or weight changes. What ya say Viper

From: George D. Stout Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 11-Nov-17




Adding tip weight weakens spine, it's part of the dynamic process, so yes...adding weight should bring it over to center.

From: Daryl Pelfrey
Date: 11-Nov-17




Thanks George. I question my way of thinkig sometimes.Really dont want to move the rest so thd tip weight is a good way to gosounds like.

From: Daryl Pelfrey
Date: 11-Nov-17




I tried 200 gr tips , made some difference. I did have to move the rest a fraction,mahbe 1/8 closer to riser.Now the diam of the shaft sets just to the left of the string. I also took the limb bolts back in 5 turns. Its almost perfect with bareshaft gt,s and the 200 gr tips. Looks like I maybe shooting the 200,s for indoor 20 t ard target. I could go to 700 instead of 600 gt,s and go to 145 heads probably but I feel like the 200gr tips on 600 gt,s are quiter and hit with a good solid thump and they fly really well.

From: GF
Date: 11-Nov-17




Just a thought....

I was just outside bare-shafting a nice, tapered cedar that was starting to look like it was a bit stiff. So I took one more step back; missed the block entirely, and snapped in half.

It had been looking like it was just about right out to 15 yards, but at 18, all hell broke loose and it ain't no more.

If you're hitting 2 feet left at 20 yards and about a foot and a half at 15 and 1 foot at 10....I would adjust the rest.

If you're hitting 2 feet left at 20 yards and right down the middle out to 12 or 15 or so, THEN I would add point weight.

You can't fix much if you don't know what's broken.

From: Daryl Pelfrey
Date: 11-Nov-17




Thanks GF

From: The Whittler
Date: 11-Nov-17




Right hand shooter maybe raise your brace height.

From: Viper
Date: 11-Nov-17




Daryl -

Sorry, been out all day.

Honest answer, the quick and dirty method is to simply bring the arrow slightly closer to center shot. Since you're talking 2", I have to assume you're looking at indoor, 20 yards stuff. Bringing the arrow closer to center. may make it act slightly weaker, but not usually enough to affect group size.

(If you're bow has a plunger, than I's just slightly weaken the spring.)

Viper out.

From: 2 bears
Date: 11-Nov-17




Daryl it sounds like you have a good handle on things and have got very good advise here. GF I believe he said 2" but you are absolutely right It takes a little distance to see problems clearly. I often shoot indoors at 10 Yards and don't even bother to change tips for bows that are a little over 10 pounds different in draw weight. >>>----> Ken

From: GF
Date: 11-Nov-17




Joke’s on me - he said inches and my brain went straight to feet because of the arrow I had just snapped, I guess....

I was just outside in the dark and shot really poorly... right now 2” out wouldn’t bother me too much....

I guess the question, then, is just whether the bare shafts hit in that same 2” Left grouping. If yes, then no sense in de-tuning the arrow when you can fine-tune the rest instead....

From: Hal9000
Date: 11-Nov-17




Move the rest in. Bob Gordon, the original Warf Master was a great shot and told me he had bows that shot their best with the tip of the arrow inside center.

From: Jim Casto Jr
Date: 12-Nov-17

Jim Casto Jr's embedded Photo



I don’t think you’re right—necessarily. Even a grossly out of spine arrow can fly down the middle. Your alignment could be making the arrows fly right. The first thing I’d probably do is check impact with bare shafts. That would tell me in short- order if I was dealing with a spine or alignment issue.

From: Jim Casto Jr
Date: 12-Nov-17




Should have said, "...make your arrows fly left."

btw... if it's not an alignment issue, moving your arrow in would probably be the easiest/quckest.

From: Bill C
Date: 12-Nov-17




Try twisting your bowstring to bring down brace height a bit. That is always the first thing I do and it usually is all I have to do.





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