I am looking for arrow suggestions. I prefer carbon. I'm shooting a Big Jim's Desert Big Horn. 60in 54@28. I am currently trying GREAT TRADS 400's these are 30in bop 50gr inserts with 175gr tips. 534 total weight. These arrows bade shaft weak

Can you cut one any shorter or are you at your minimal length already?

Either reduce the point weight or cut the shaft shorter if you can. Bob

I would try a 125gr point. Lot of good 125gr broadheads out there.

You already have 50gr insert, 175gr point/BH is way too much. I don't know how much past centre is cut your bow, but try 125 points before cutting the arrow

Call Big Jim.

Shoot 500 spine and 125gr. Doubt you're showing weak,bet you're gripping weird

What makes you think they bare shaft weak? If you're right handed and they impact left of fletched, yea they're probably weak. I really doubt that they're weak.

Bowmania

Still crazy how you get busted sometimes when you think you got the wind, and another day you have three deer standing dead downwind and they act clue

What Todd said. If you're trying to determine spine by nock orientation in the target you're chasing your tail.

What is your draw length and the weight at that drawing 28 cut one if not your numbers need adjusting as to actual bow weight. I’ve met very few people who actually draw exactly 28 but apparently it’s the gold standard because no one ever mentions their actual draw length

When my arrow shafts leave the bow, they are flying Nock left. I am a right handed shooter, so this is week. My only issue with shorter shafts or lighter points is, I'm try to keep.the overall arrow weight up

Bare shafting a bit weak is fine. Fletching will give you what you want unless the shafts are tuning very weak. The cheapest fix would be reducing point weight until you get what you want. The arrow shooting straight trumps a bit of point weight.

its the right set up ... except shaft might be a little short.

might need a little more point weight. Vic, check your text, I acidentally erased it without getting your message. Move your nock back down to 1/2". For the heck of it, try putting a nock point under your shaft as well just because it won't hurt a thing.... but it might explain something.

That second nock point deal for those wondering... Acording to High speed photogrophy and videos, split finger shooters can also benefit from a secon nock point...we already new that all three under shooters could.

Upon release, the arrow wants to return to the center of the string apparently and without the second nock point, the arrow will slide down the shaft until it finds balance.

If you tuned your nock properly, your nock point is positioned where it is because your bow told you that this is the spot that when "you" personally..not some one else, release the string, your limbs are in time. BigJim

https://youtu.be/BSJ6-HjPMTM

Let me get this straight, YOU RESIST CUTTING THE SHAFT SHORTER OR REDUCING THE POINT WEIGHT, BECAUSE YOUR TRYING TO KEEP THE ARROW WEIGHT UP! What is more important arrow weight or getting an arrow that spins on its axis and hits the mark. I think you have your priorities out of wack!

Bob

If you do feel they are weak, and you don't want to change point weight or overall length (although I agree with aromakr here) then build out the side plate 1/16" at a time. If they are weak, Big Jim says they may be so I believe him, they will stiffen up and fly correctly.

Bob, I've been doing this for a little while. This is the first time having issues. There is a way to get the right spine and the arrow weight I want. I just haven't found it yet.

Build out the side plate. The you have the right spine and arrow weight.

Just call Paul Jalon at elite arrows or Cliff at cas and get some darn woods! besides, you won't like the tase of carbon fibers in your meat or blood stream! haha!

fdp:

I was wondering how long it would take for someone to suggest "Build out the strike plate" That's tuning 101. It shouldn't take much, do a 1/16" at a time.

Bob

Cutting the shaft off 1" only loses a few grains. A stiffer shaft will handle a heavier head. Work with it. >>>----> Ken

if your really weak? add weight to the nock end it will stiffen shaft and drop tip weight. if over spine to much you can get a false reading of weak spine because arrow is not flexing around riser and forcing tail left as it passes riser. to save time and money drop tip weight to see what happens? if it does not get better than add more weight to tip to see what it does. you can get inserts to add nock end weights.

Big Jim says the shaft may be a little SHORT or the OP might try a little MORE point weight.

What part of that suggests that Jim thinks that these arrows are weak???

I’m still trying to figure all of this stuff out for myself, but at this stage I am a big fan of the paper bag test. You can do all of the regular testing and tweaking you want, and there’s no need to look at anything while it’s in motion, which can screw up your form, which can give a false read, which can keep you going in circles indefinitely.

And of course, there is no accounting for individual variability. Right or wrong, some people do things in a unique way that means that they will arrive at a unique solution which will not work for anyone else on the planet. But if it really does work for them… well… Who am I to argue?

One thing that I am a advocate of is getting used to a bow before fine tuning.

What I mean is .... A guy gets a new ..or new to him bow and the first thing he/she wants to do is get down to the nitty gritty and make up a perfect arrow before they even sweat in the grip good.

Every bow is slightly different. It may not take a day or two for you to get used to one, but then it might take a week or more. Find some arrows that fly pretty well. Get them to shoot where you are looking and get to shooting and enjoying the bow.

Once you have settled in, fine tune it. Oh, if it needs a little help along the way, make an adjustment or two. but don't get hung up on things until you feel good about it.

Now when it comes to "TUNING" time, don't go to the bag to "tune", you go to shoot and read the arrows and tune the bow/arrows acoringly. Too many guys will subconciosly adjust their shooting while tunig trying to shoot just right so that they can get their bow perfectly tuned....been there done that. BigJim

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