Im using the green magnus hwads nd sharpen them myself. Been thinking about diff broadhead. Do any of you use/ like the dirt knap 125 gr head with the bleeder blades. Cabelas sells them.

Heads and. Not hwads nd.sorry

About twelve bucks a piece is not my cup of tea for something that doesn't do anything more than Ace or Zwickey for about half that price.

Yeafh i like the price on the zwickeys. I sharpen them to where they will shave the arm hair with a light drag down the arm.I hope that is good enough.I guess i was thinking factkry bkade/equal razor sharp and would beat mine.

Daryl, my experience is that if they shave hair from your arm, they will cut arteries and veins plenty well. Never had one not bleed when hit well with a file sharpened head.

Thanks George, looks like i will just keep using tbe 3 for $12.99 Zwickeys

I've wanted to try them for awhile now. Great looking heads.

PURDY COLORS....What else do they have going for them? Need the back story since THEY are kinda pricy. Just askin'

Very sharp, also sharpened all the way around.

Great design imo.

Here's their turkey head, called the Shred Head.

Stay with your current broadheads. Sharp and accurate is all that is required.

They look weak in the extra threads.

I used em for awhile but put what I had in the st Jude auction this year

I have looked over quite a few broadheads that were advertised as razor sharp out of the package. Few were sharp enough to hunt with without some touch up.

I like that Turkey head maybe I'll get some I forgot all about these heads. Thanks for showing us again.

I agree with George and I dislike the name.

"I've wanted to try them for awhile now. Great looking heads."

I will never understand the fascination with tough-guy sounding names and cosmetics. I mean... Yeah, I get it.. I just ... don't... Get It.

All a head needs to do is fly straight, be sharp, and not get bent so badly that it won't penetrate in a straight line. Pretty simple tool, until we start complicating things in pursuit of a Cool Factor. JMO, the only reason to pay (a reasonable amount) more for something like that is that a factory CAN save you the time that it takes to get a really fine edge, and I recall back when NAP was able to document that the replaceable blades on the old Thunderheads were machine-honed to a level that as sharper than humanly possible. So if you question your ability to get a blade "shaving sharp"... yeah, maybe the wiser choice is a GOOD factory edge. I have some Magnus 4-blades for that very reason - I figured I could sharpen the mains to the best of my ability and use the bleeders for insurance.

"I have looked over quite a few broadheads that were advertised as razor sharp out of the package. Few were sharp enough to hunt with without some touch up."

Not going to dispute that for a moment, but Magnus Stingers are (IMO) well beyond "sharp enough" - I cut the tip of my left index finger about 1/8" deep with one and that sucker bled for DAYS. Finally stopped after I super-glued the wound shut.

Which brings up one more item which may or may not be a consideration for any given bowhunter... the reason I got myself on that Stinger was the sharpened trailing edge on that blade. NOT Cat-Quiver compatible, and I would expect that they would result in LOT of needless wear and tear on your favorite leather back-quiver. Probably not really safe with any style other than a bow-mounted model.

Lucky for me, it was my bow-hand that I cut; probably would have shut down my shooting for the whole week had it been on my draw-side.

GF, I'm not 'fascinated' with tough guy sounding names, I'm fascinated by good bowhunting gear. You got a problem with that?

Your post reeks of a bitter condescending old man that thinks he knows everything. A lot of that going on around here.

Buying undies that fit a bit more loosely is a good start to an open mind.

Pearl Drums has the best and only post that matters so far. Get any of them sharp and practice with them. Geeezzzz it not that difficult.

60Cowboy

Wow did I do that.lol

The aside on the fascination with such things was more of a general observation on the state of the sport (including/especially the high-tech side). Dirt Nap. DRT. Rage. Grim Reaper. Schwacker. KillZone. HellRazor. DeadMeat. Freak Nasty. Malice. Sounds like the titles to a string of cheaper slasher movies.

I bear the deer no Malice.

But hey... Suit yourself - your money.

I agree with GF except I like the name "HellRazor" and have shot them, and still use them with my "Black Ice" wheel bow. Also my undies are not too tight, bunched up, or in a wad.

Hey I'm not crazy about the name either, but it ain't gonna dissuade me from buying something that is potentially better.

The sharpened rear of the blade is an obvious improvement over a standard head. It has to be. More cutting if the head remains in the body.

Plus they look cool. I shoot Bear greenies now and am happy, but I like this head. Sue me. LOL

Strongly recommend Duluth Armachillos...

"HellRazors" - yeah, I bought a pack when they were going in clearance and because I had such faith in the old Thunderheads... figured they knew what they were doing.

Was not hugely impressed; when I did my job right, they were every bit as good as you could ask for, but when I hit solid bone, the head ended up squeezing through a gap and got pretty deformed. NOT a shot that you'd ever repeat and possibly not even indicative of what would happen if you were to hit an upper leg bone, but just structurally - there's no way that empty space can be as strong as solid steel.

"The sharpened rear of the blade is an obvious improvement over a standard head. It has to be. More cutting if the head remains in the body."

That's what I thought when I got a pack of Stingers, but then I cut myself with one while stowing an arrow in my CatQuiver and decided it was an "improvement" that I could live without.

But you think about it... "if the head remains in the body". Sounds so entirely reasonable, doesn't it?

I'm trying to think under what conditions that might occur, and for any of my bows (out of which I get at least #45 or more, probably into the low #50s) I can't imagine a scenario in which the head would remain in the body cavity, or in the body at all if the head didn't get lodged in bone. And if it's stuck in bone, I'd expect it's there to stay. If the head lodges in muscle, then yeah, things could keep cutting, but on non-vital tissues, so the crippling effect would be much worse... Might turn a bad wound into a lethal injury if the chopped meat turned to pus...

I have used them with success. They fly straight,quiet and sharpen very easy. I would recommend.

Did you feel guilty or maybe even "dirty" as you were pulling it from the mud after it passed through with ease? Be honest, Peter! Fred might be listening.

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