I know this should be looked on a case by case basis but what are generally the drawbacks? I would guess that excessive noise at the shot might be a problem but I've never owned a bow tillered 3-under.

It makes very little difference in a laminated bow, to my notion. I don't think a bow can be tillerd for a particular way of shooting unless that shooter is right there when it's tillered and checked by the bowyer.

All bows have tiller; it usually ranges from 3/8" positive to 1/8" negative. I've said a zillion times, just tune the bow and shoot it. Others have different opinions and that's fine. I just don't pay much attention to it.

MB -

It can be done, but it gets tricky. First, it's illegal in 37 states, and frowned upon in polite society. Then you have to get permission from the US-Trad council(TRAD-USA.Org), which can take up to a six months and $$$ via a debit card or Paypal and then there's the character witness thing (in triplicate).

Or you could just adjust the nocking point, which opens a hole 'nother can o' worms ...

Seriously, unless the bowyer really messed up, just move the nocking point.

Viper out.

I've never owned a bow tillered three-under, that I'm aware of, but I have 3 lefties and 2 righties that shoot quite well three under. they range from a 60" recurve to a 66" longbow.

Lol :^) I thought bows tillered 3-under were basically even tiler, both top & bottom limb?

MB -

Usually, but depends on what the bowyer thinks it should be. Just remember that besides native tiller, nocking point, bow hand position, string grip and probably a few other things affect the "dynamic" tiller.

Again seriously, unless the bowyer really messed up, the only time it can be a factor is on VERY short bows, but they usually have so many other quirks that tiller is pretty low on the list of things to worry about.

Viper out.

I shoot split and purchased a set of limbs from a friend who shoots 3 under. Upon release the bow sounds like an open D string on a bass fiddle, and no amount of working with silencing material or placement will stop it. I plan to contact the bowyer to see about re-tillering.

David, did you measure the tiller when you put them on the bow? I've had bows from even to 3/8th positive, even had one 3/8th negative one time and they all shot fine with a nock set properly. Three under from split is only a finger diameter difference.

David Mc,

Curious... how long is the bow and what's the current tiller?

I'm not sure anyone but an Olympic archer can really benefit or notice slight tiller changes. I know I can't. Nock changes can solve it

The importance of tiller is blown WAY out proportion when it comes to glass bows. First, as someone already said, you can't custom tiller a bow for ANY shooting style unless the person is in the shop with you. Too many things come in to play. How you grip the bow, how you grip the string, how high the arrow in on the string above 90degrees to the rest. How big your hands are, and on and on.

Just tune the bow and shoot it.

David,Swap the top and bottom limb and see if that helps, Medicinebow move your nocking point till it finds its happy place.

What Viper said (in fewer words) 8^)

Rick

Ha. I know of bowyers who send them out even no matter how you order them. Tune it for yourself. In ilf i use to play with if a lot but really not a deal breaker. Rooty

That too George. Its like whsn you go from shelf to elevated no big deal. Rooty

An then what does the tiller look like at full draw. Lots of things to drive a person into fiddle for nothing mode. Shoot it lots. Rooty

"First, as someone already said, you can't custom tiller a bow for ANY shooting style unless the person is in the shop with you."

That's not true. You can do it if you have enough accurate information. I've done it over the phone and through emails. Done it with glass bows, designed and tillered to suit their idioms as they relayed them to me(when in fact they did understand them) even tied nock points exactly where I figured they needed to be(because I tillered the bows relative to that precise predetermined spot), and they shoot great right out of the gate. Inherently tuned... or hey, could be I just keep getting lucky ;^)

That question "pops-up" rather regularly. The difference between a bow tillered for split-finger and one tillered for 3 under is approximately 1/8", hardly enough to tell the difference much less be concerned about it. Unless, of course you are an Olympic style archer.

One of the best shooting bows I have owned was a BW tilered 3 under. I shot it split..

Can't be done! Send it to me I shoot 3 under!

"... or hey, could be I just keep getting lucky..."

It might very well be that you're that good; it might well be you got lucky... or... it could be that it just doesn't make much difference.

:^)

I completely believe that Jeff has done that. That said, I don't know enough archers that have the level of consistency in hand placement on the bow, or the string, that could understand what I was asking.

As soon as you move the nock you change the dynamic tiller. I shoot 3 bows tiller for split 3under and they're whisper quiet. I have 1 hollered 3under my son shoots split and I shoot 3under. It's whisper quiet both ways.

Yep, as stated above,just adjust the tiller. I shot split for years but now shoot 3 under. I use almost the same nocking point. Some guys shooting split probably have to have a higher nocking point than I do because of where their finger pressure is on the string and their pressure point on the grip.

Just have to try different nocking points. Also, the longer I shot 3 under the quieter my bow got, but your milage may vary, it was a longer transition to 3 under for me than some I know that switched. But, I did shoot split for 40 years.

I'll measure and play with those limbs after season ends. they are a light set for when I get old. Right now I'm only 60 and the 60# limbs are still working really well and hardly make a sound on the same riser. Flipping the limbs is possible and might be interesting, given the difference in sound between the two sets it is obvious that something is profoundly different. Rain here for the first time in 3 weeks and the woods are quiet again for a ground hunter, time to fill the freezer.

In many instances, 'tuning a bow' by moving the nock point can work to improve a dynamic imbalance, or mask the effects of it(not the same thing)... but whatever it's called or actually does in each instance, the need to do it is proof that relative limb strength makes a difference. I simply prefer to address it through design and construction, when possible, rather than try to correct it or mask it after.

The degree of imbalance varies and matters as well. Bows whose dynamic balance is spot on for the archer's 3 under hold can be shot split finger by him without adjustment or ill effect, and vice versa, but adjustments may need made after the switch if they were barely getting along prior. Moving even farther from optimum, sometimes balance cannot be adequately addressed no matter how far we raise the nock point. I've seen it here many times, and bows are sold or collect dust because of it. Tell THOSE guys it doesn't make much difference.

Tillered, not hollered. Not sure why its called spell check when the corrections are worse than my spelling.

It's called "Auto-Incorrect" Gary ;)

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