Greetings All,

Havin some string building issues and need a little help.

My strings always seem to come out long...I made a string board from specs I got from either here a another trad site, or maybe a trad magazine. ..cannot remember.

I even lengthened the tag ends where I start twisting and once the string stretches in, I have to twist until it almost wants to twist onto itself when unstrung...

How much twist is too much? Im half tempted to shorten the string by moving my length peg an inch shorter and giving it a shot.

Any suggestions?

Thnx, Jason

I had the same problem so now I measure about a half inch shorter than the desired length when I do the second loop. I figure there is quite a bit of slack in the string that will pull out under tension. I am a newbie at Flemish twist and can make some pretty ugly strings that shoot well.

I have found that all string boards throw a little different length string.

I had to find the setting for mine to make a consistent string that fits every time. I make the top loop with 7 1/2" of string bundles, the bottom with 7" and set my peg 1/2" shorter then the marking on the board would suggest. Instead of the usual 1" peg hole spacing I drilled more holes to give me 1/2" hole spacing.

Use a different peg hole, 15 twists are about optimum when making a string. If you have one you have to twist up 40 or 50 times to fit your bow it will stretch forever after you put it on your bow.

Thanks guys,

I dropped an inch of length and am much closer...all else being the same...a little fine tuning and some good notes and I'll be in business.

Thanks again and happy hunting, Jason

It's probably your technique. If you had someone else make a string using your jig and your same measurement, it would end up with a different finished length. I have the same issue. Almost always have to untwist the second loop and redo.

MP

Rigs, make the string 1" shorter than you want the finished string to be. Then when you stretch the string (in the beginning your strings are going to creep and move, they really stretch very litle) you will be able to twist it to the length you want with a minimal number of twists.

The problem is, the string board manufacture probably twist differently than you do, either tighter or more loose. That will effect length. Modify the board to accommodate how you twist the string. Then write down all the spec's i.e. length of bundles, length of pigtails, number of twist in each loop. for each string you make. I make my loops differently for each bows limb width. I don't want my top loop sliding down the limb and want my lower loop to just slide over the limb tip.

Bob

Rigs,when you are twisting the second loop, double it back and measure the string. You can vary the length to what you need by adjusting how much you braid back into the main body. Allow for stretch. Only you can determine how much stretch you get by the material you use and the tightness of your twists. Measuring saves me from guess work and having to redo them. Hope that make sense. It is easier to do than explain.Good luck.>>>----> Ken

Thanks Ken,

That thought had crossed my mind over coffee this am... I'm going to give it a go.

Happy hunting, Jason

Yep move one hole shorter. That will help. Also the bigger your loops, makes your overall length longer. So remember to shorten a little more when making recurve strings. Write down what you do. JF

Rigs, the first string I made,I had to redo it several times. I relabeled the jig to fit my twisting and started measuring ever one. I just made one for a Bear yesterday and it came out spot on. You will get it. Another tip, after the first loop is twisted smooth out the strands and make sure they are the exact same length. If one bundle is slack twist it or even it up. You want to end up with the same load on each strand. Holler if you have any more questions.>>>----> Ken

Sorry you are having problems Jason. But the answer is obvious from your question, shorten the peg layout so it comes out OK. Assuming you have enough at the ends to make a safe string.

As someone who is not building commercially, I find the jigs useless for two reasons. One being, the ones I have used don't get me closer than the string length plus 20 inches formula. Second reason is that while I was resistant at the outset, I now find the method where one doesn't pre-trim the ends better in pretty much every way. So if the jig doesn't get it right, and one doesn't care about the ends, there isn't any point to it.

When I do a string I just drive two drywall screws or nails, at string plus 20 (is that bow length plus 17); Then I twist up the ends, mount it on the bow to do the serving, and if it isn't right at that point, I just re-twist an end loop, rather than over or under winding the string.

Go to a shorter peg hole. Jawge

Rick's Flemish String Jig Plans:

Link to file - CLICK HERE

I have to give credit to Doahead (Tony Krier).
Mine is a Modified version of of his Flemish String Jig Plans.
Link to Daohead's file - CLICK HERE

Rick

Pay attention to the notes in my plans.

For it to be accurate, you have to burn 9" each end for the loops,

AND

The lengths are finished string before stretching, so you need to take into account how much stretch you get, and deduct that for the jig setting. EXAMPLE - If you get 2" of stretch when finsishing off the string, and you want a 62" finished length, then you need to set the jig at 60", build the string there, then stretch it to 62"

Hope that is understandable.

Rick

All is not lost when a string is too long or short. Just undo one of the loops and redo it making the string longer or shorter as needed. My early attempts seemed to be an inch long, so if I was starting with 9" to start a loop, use 10" instead. As mentioned, I later relabeled my nails so I was right on.

Rick what do you mean by "burn 9" each end for the loops"?

Everyone twists differently,some tighter that others. You have to work out a formula that works for you. Remember your goal is to build a string thats your length when a hundred pound weight is hanging from it.

[[[ Bernie P.: "Rick what do you mean by "burn 9" each end for the loops"?" ]]]

Bernie, what I call "BURN" is the distance from the very end of the bundles, that you measure back to start the twisting of the loops at.

Rick

Rick

There are several things, that will impact the length of a string after twist up.

(1) Size of loops

(2) Size in diameter of bundles

(3) Tightness (or lack there of) in twisting

That said - use that jig, and follow the instructions, and it will get you at the very least a serviceable string, and once you really get the twisting part down it will get you are pretty accurate length every time.

Rick

I think I got it.You are saying you use the same 9" back from the ends for both loops.Just make the upper loop a little larger right?

Thanks for all the help Gents!

I did make a couple good strings after shortening my starting working length. After doing that, I don't have to twist the daylights out of them once they finished stretching...

I did get a little variance in length just by my twisting...I'll work on it.

Thanks for the board jig blueprint Rick! I'll compare it to mine and probably build one to see if I might have better luck!

How many twists are in your strings when finished and stretched in Rick?

Happy hunting, Jason

Now this is a good post what i like to see!

Bernie, yep. It's a good "root" length burn.

BUT, you can adjust that length a little to customize for your particular idiosyncrasies if needed.

Rick

Jason, not counting the twists of the loop splices - my strings will have 1/2 twist per inch of the overall length of the string.

Example: my 60" strings will have 30 twists placed in them once I get the loops twisted up.

Rick

Thanks Rick.

My 61" string ended up at 38 at the correct brace...I did compare my string board to yours and will be putting a new board together this afternoon and seein what I can do.

Thanks for the help up Gents!

Happy hunting, Jason

Solved that problem, just tie one loop and tie a bowyers knot for the other end.

No need to build a new board--just re-number the one you have now that you have it "calibrated."

Bumping this.

Going to make a jig. I have one, but like this layout better.

Thanks Rick.

Here's mine

Whole thing

Made my first string on the jig, Rick. Came out perfectly with casual twist at proper brace. Even if it stretches some more, it worked perfectly for the twists I wanted. I don't like barber pole twist, I prefer candy cane twist. Translated, that's about 1 twist in 1.5"

Thank you.

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