I know its. Been asked many times but here goes. Ive got my knocking point at 5/8 above square. My arrow nkck is higher than the point of the arrow by maybe 2 in. The arrow is flying straight to the target just tsil high. So is it to high a nock point? Shooting 3 under.This is bare shaft.

Maybe, maybe not. Just move it down and see.

I usually start at 1/2". Generally end up at 3/8" high, unless I'm using a crawl.

Yup^^^^

Thanks

Maybe a tad high. Mine is t 7/16 right now. You just have to find your sweet spot.

Maybe its my form and release, but all my recurves have ended up at 5/8" above for best tune. I shoot split finger.

Maybe this doesn't apply to you at all, Crow. But... It's been my observation that a lot of folks shoot arrows that are too stiff and they end up having to raise their nocking point to eleveate some contact so the arrows will fly true with no "kick.'

Whenever I hear guys talking about 3/4" or 7/8" high nocking points, the first thing I think is--too stiff... way too stiff.

Not that it's always a bad thing, especially with carbon arrows. Sometimes it's good to shoot a stiffer arrow to beef up the weight (for hunting). The main thing is, no matter the nocking point height, is to have good arrow flight.

All mine are 5/8 above. Any lower and the arrow loudly slaps the rest and even knocks the bottom feather off if I shoot it like that very much.Three under.

What Jim Casto said.

Are you putting the arrow above or below the string nock?

So given what Jim said, this would be another thing one could work out easily with an investment in a half dozen or so Al arrows of appropriate spine, covering a wide range of possible spines.

I believe a root cause for many folks is that the tiller is off, specifically, too strong on the bottom limb. This causes the arrow's nock end to be drawn down toward the bottom limb during the draw because it doesn't travel as far as the top limb. Upon release the aft end of the arrow is coming out low and strikes the shelf... and folks keep raising the nock point until it doesn't. Not a full cure or an optimum setup, but sometimes their options are limited.

I always had to shoot a higher than normal for most nock point. Shooting three under or split. If your bow is tillered for split and you shoot three under most of the time you will need a slightly high nock point. I think Jim C. Is right about the arrow may be a little stiff. Try adding 10-20 grains and see what happens. I have been working with vanes and on my about perfect bareshaft arrows I needed to weaken them a bit to stop the fletched arrows from kicking up using the same 5/8 nock height. Just for s----and grins raise your brace height about 1/8 and see what happens.

All my bows end up around 5/8. They all work well at this setting, so I don't care what the actual number happens to be.

First off no one can tell you what your nock point should be, it is too dependent on several form factors; i.e. how you grip the bow, how you grip the string and where you grip the string, and the position of your elbow at full draw.

And spine has nothing to do with nock point location, the only thing nock point location does find that point on the string where both limbs return to battery in unison upon release.

Bob

It can. Though I'm not convinced it actually does that as readily or effectively as some folks believe.

aromakr X2.

A simple thing to try. If you have your cock fletch out turn it in and see if that helps. It may surprise you. DANNY

I agree w/aromakr and George. No one can tell you. I've been told repeatedly by a well-meaning "pro" archer to move my nock point up to 3/4 to 7/8"... or else I would never shoot well. Just doesn't work for me. I had to trust my experience which was difficult to get to since I'm really a beginner.

Other factors that I think affect nock height include the type of rest and size of fingers. I use a feather rest on most of my bows and I think it works better with a slightly lower nock. A hard rest might be different... or an elevated rest.

Everyone's fingers are different widths, which is also affected by the thickness of gloves used. 2 or 3 of my fingers might be 1/4 to 1/2" or more different width than 2 or 3 of your fingers. Everyone seems to know that 3 under changes nock height and tiller compared to split, but different finger widths has a similar effect. Wider fingers pulls on the string further down from the arrow nock, and vice versa. Personally I just use 2 fingers, after finding that 3 fingers didn't line up on the string well and I kept pulling the string left or right. I though about just using two fingers and made the change after seeing a photo of Glenn St. Charles shooting split. His ring finger wasn't really touching the string. So in effect he was shooting 2 fingers. So I tried it and have not gone back. But it requires a slightly lower nock.

The percent of pressure applied to each finger may also affect nock height. Are all 3 fingers pulling equally, or is the first or middle finger doing most of the work? We are all different.

No one said spine had anything to do with the nocking point height. What "I" said was, that sometimes if a guy is shooting too stiff an arrow, he will sometimes have to raise his nocking point to alleviate some contact to make his arrows fly better.

There certainly are a lot factors that determine the proper nock set height for you and your bow. You just need to tune to find out what it is.

The tiller of the limbs can be an issue on this.

Tiller isn't just a possible issue, it's the root cause.

Moving the nock point up or down is done to move the string hand fulcrum up or down the string, which is a corrective action needed only when the dynamic tiller is off/unbalanced.

You can tweak the nock position a bit by moving string silencers. I like to set silencers close to the lift point of the string. Then move one silencer towards the center an inch at a time and see if the arrow flight changes.

I have a set of limbs that came at 1/4" positive tiller so my nock is at 3/4" high. The other set is barely 1/8" positive so nock point is 5/8" high. Shoot what it takes....

So Jeff what you are saying is that to be able to shoot a lower nock point you need to lessen the positive tiller,did I say that right?

Do you have 2 nock points on your string? Arrow can slide down string on release, just place a string nock below your arrow nock. Good Luck!!!

Put it where it works best. Use an adjustable nocking point where you can move the nock as needed. Check out Rick Barbee video on how to put an adjustable nock on your string. I use two on my strings.

westrayer:

I think you have that backwards. The more positive the tiller the lower the nock point location will be.

Bob

If you have already registered, please

sign in now

For new registrations

Click Here