Planning on purchasing some Truoil to refinish a bow I have. I wanted to get used to using it by applying it as a finish to a dozen cedar arrows. Any tips, such as what stain is best to use under it, etc. would be appreciated. I have used polyurethane on a few sets of arrows and it has worked fine. Just want to try the Truoil out.

Thanks

Ken

Ken, I think you will find "Tru-oil" will be superior as a shaft finish, but just a might expensive. My experience is Oil based finishes are harder, last longer. If your going to stain, either water based or Alcohol based stains will be the most compatible.

Bob

Thank you, Bob. I was hoping you would reply. Have a good weekend.

Yes Bob, thank you for that info, I was wondering the same.

I have finished several arrows with TruOil. The best arrow finish imo. I rub on a coat, let dry, and hit with wool. Three coats is good. It is more expensive than other finishes and certainly takes some time and work. But the result is totally worth it.

All that said I have been using polycrylic lately, and in the past used wb poly. Both suck in comparison to TruOil.

Guess I didn't mention the fact I am out of truoil or I'd be using it.

I have used tru oil for arrows as well. I just used a cloth rag to apply thin coats. I used 0000 steel wool between coats. BUT I could not buy it in CA. anymore so had to move on. I even tried to order from manufacturer but they would not ship to CA. I did find a woodworker on line supplier that would ship but the size bottle was about a pint. That's enough for a life time. It also hardness up after opening. Haven't looked here in AZ. yet but this state is not as anal about oil based products. I also used it to finish the bamboo fly rods I make. It's great stuff if you can get it.

It's great on arrows. Rooty

That is what I have been using Bob is Polycrylic. I have not had a lot of problem with Polycrylic. Someone gave me some advice to keep cae wax on the shafts to help ward off target burn. Sounds like I am going to like Tru oil. Thanks, Ken

"Car" not "cae"

I use also Tru Oil on my arrow shafts and stain them with liquid black shoe polish. This will show the wood grain very nice after applying the Tru Oil. Some shooters claim that I am shooting carbon arrows.

I use also rid dye in alcohol or a water based stain followed by polyacrylic.. I sometimes I skip the stain. Jawge

I tried boiled linseed oil after Truoil was banned. Seemed to work OK but took awhile to dry. Really cheap compared to Truoil.

osage: Try tung oil with a drier, much harder than linseed oil and I believe it sets up sooner.

Bob

Banned?

I was told by the hardware store guy that it can't be sold in Calif any more. Of course heroin can be purchased with no problem. Thanks for the input on Tung oil. Saw some and wondered if it would work OK. Just finished putting Tru Oil on a longbow riser and slopped a bit on the fiberglass. It set up on the glass the same as on wood. Any of you guys done a whole bow with a Truoil sealer?

Why is Tru-Oil banned?

I use 5 or 6 coats of truoil on my selfbows, but have never used it as an arrow finish. I would think it would make an excellent arrow finish though.

Bob, can I just apply my fletching with Duco to the Tru oil finish

TO is a superb arrow finish. Polycrylic is good too, but target burns like polyurethane. I don't shoot targets all thatmuch, so it really is no big deal. Man sometimes you really have to muscle them out of foam with two handed grip and a knee against the target. Or, just let your son pop em right out. lol

Banned in California, Hmmmm............John

have used tunge oil in the past worked well

California keeps banning things I like and not banning things I think they should. But it is still a wonderful state once you get away from the coastal cities. I don't mind a trip to Reno now and then to get things you cannot hereabouts, like oil based enamel paint and good shower heads. Naybe Barge Cement for leather work.

Tung oil is a fine alternative to TruOil and much cheaper if you make a lot of arrows. If the batch you get is slow to dry cut it with paint thinner, and maybe acetone. Rub it on with a rag or steel wool and prop the shafts out on the porch to dry. - lbg

Yes duco for gluing feathers on shafts finished with tru oil works great.

Birchwood Casey True-Oil! ????????????

Dip arrows in dipping tube. Thinned with30/70 mineral spirits/true oil.

Great for bows too!

I've finished several bows and a bunch of gunstocks with truoil and like most finishes more very thin coats is superior to a few thick ones. I put it on with fingers and use it very sparingly. When it's applied as I described it's not costly at all.

I've never done arrows with it but I'm pretty sure I could finish well over 100 arrows and more likely over two hundred with one of the little bottles.

If you plan to use it, don't remove the foil under the cap. Put a small hole through it about 1/8" or so. When done, put the cap back on tight and store it upside down. If it does thicken it can be recovered with mineral spirits.

I second everything Longcruise said here!

J

I appreciate all the tips, very good info on this thread. Like I said, I want to use it on a older recurve I have and figured it would be a good idea to "practice" on some arrows first.If my bow turns out as well as yours Jason I will be very satisfied with the finish.

Tiny pin hole in the foil! Squeeze out what you need. Put the cap on tight!

FYI, CA. Is trying to ban all petroleum based finishes and pretty much succeeded. Even car paint is waterbased now and has been for some years. I though about a side career of "bootlegging" car finishes into CA. for car guys I know.

I use carnauba floor paste wax after assembling my arrows. Nice and slick, very waterproof.

Another really good arrow and or bow finish is a mixture of Boiled Linseed oil and shellac. Mix it 50/50. I learned about itfrom Jay Massey years ago and it works very well.

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