Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


STRETCH carbon shafts ?

Messages posted to thread:
jk 14-Aug-17
jk 14-Aug-17
2 bears 14-Aug-17
M60gunner 14-Aug-17
jk 14-Aug-17
2 bears 14-Aug-17
jk 14-Aug-17
Snow Crow 14-Aug-17
StikBow 14-Aug-17
2 bears 14-Aug-17
Snow Crow 15-Aug-17
Jim B 15-Aug-17
jk 15-Aug-17
From: jk
Date: 14-Aug-17




I've accumulated (don't ask how) a half dozen GT 600 Blems.

Have cut them down and built nice 27.5" arrows..too short to aim down the shaft.

So...can some some aluminum shaft be cut and glued to turn these into 32" arrows?

From: jk
Date: 14-Aug-17




Meant to say, "accumulated a half dozen damaged GT 600 Blems."

From: 2 bears
Date: 14-Aug-17




How about splicing on a piece of carbon, reinforced with a piece of aluminium shaft, like footing one? Just thinking out loud. Point end only so it won't be drawn inside the bow.>>-->Ken

From: M60gunner
Date: 14-Aug-17




I think Ken has a better idea. That's a good 5" of shaft you want to add plus at least another inch for gluing preposes. I would think that will change your spine some. Nothing else it's goin add weight.

From: jk
Date: 14-Aug-17




Yes...but which aluminum shaft for GT 600 Blems...?

Don't mind changing spine, can probably fix that with point weight...

From: 2 bears
Date: 14-Aug-17




My 600 GT Entradas measure about .283 O.D. Not sure other GT's are the same. 2016 has an ID of .280 you would have to sand the 600 for a tight fit. A 2014 has an ID of .284 if you can fine one. Measure your 600 or fine the dimension and get back too me. I will help you out. That would put a tight splint on the outside of the 600's epoxied in place.>>>----> Ken

From: jk
Date: 14-Aug-17




Thanks Ken... I'll try to find my micrometer :-) After confirming Blem's diameter I'll dig thru my club's "found arra" bin for busted/bent 2016 and 2014.

From: Snow Crow
Date: 14-Aug-17




I use 1/4" dowel rod cut long enough to insert 1" into main shaft and the entire length of the added section right up to the back of the insert. Using hot melt on the dowel, the ends of both shafts are butted together. Then a footing is installed that runs from the the tip to 1" past the joint. The joined section is now reinforced internally by the dowel and externally by the footing.

These rehabbed shafts become disposable squirrel arrows.

From: StikBow
Date: 14-Aug-17




Did the opposite put carbon on the nock of a cedar so I could try alighted nock. Worked fine. Should be able to splice a 7 inch or so cedar into a carbon. Weight forward? Could us an oak dowl to overcome some spine problems just a thought

From: 2 bears
Date: 14-Aug-17




Snow Crow's fix would be bomb proof. You might could go to a lighter point to make up the difference in weight and be real close to where your other arrows are.I will file these thoughts away for such time they may be needed.>>>----> Ken

From: Snow Crow
Date: 15-Aug-17




2 bears, thanks for the reminder: yes, the repaired shafts do indeed act differently in spine from original due to weight added and the stiffening (no flex at all) of the internally footed front section. Reduce point weight to suit.

I fine tune weight of my screw in squirrel nutter heads by removing washers.

From: Jim B
Date: 15-Aug-17

Jim B's embedded Photo



2013 Platinums are available.Personally,I would buy new shafts instead.

From: jk
Date: 15-Aug-17




I do replace damaged carbons when necessary...of course. But when a few accumulate it's tempting to consider alternatives. For example, maybe ultra stiff splices would be an excuse to get a way-past-center riser :-)





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