From: robbartley
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 28-Jul-17 |
|
Looking to build an arrow for my new Black Widow 45@28", drawing 28. Ran a couple through the spine calculator and came up with the following. Which is best choice for hunting? Why? 500 400 Length 30 30 Point Wt125 200 Fletch 3-5" 3-5" Arrow wt416.6 512.6 GPP 9.3 11.4 FOC 14% 18.70% FT/Sec 190.6 172.4 FT/lbs 33.6 33.8 Arrow Sp58.1 57.6
|
|
From: fdp
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 28-Jul-17 |
|
Completely subjective question, that's going to get 50 different answers.
Regardless of what arrow you choose, it's all about having it flying as straight and true as possible with the sharpest broadhead you can get, put in the right spot.
Outside of that they are all the same.
|
|
From: Orion
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 28-Jul-17 |
|
If you're trying to decide between a 500 spine and a 400 spine the 400 will be too stiff unless you put a pile of weight on the end, something like 300-350 grains.
|
|
From: JustSomeDude
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 28-Jul-17 |
|
600 will likely be easier
|
|
From: GF
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 28-Jul-17 |
|
Carbon shafts are so much lighter than wood or aluminum that I don't believe you need to concern yourself in the slightest with matters such as FOC, etc. Not unless you're planning on hunting for something much larger than a #45 bow would suggest.
Any broadhead that gets your arrow up to a reasonable weight will be plenty, so grab one that you like and let your bow choose the shaft - bare-shafting will get you there.
|
|
From: Bob Rowlands
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 29-Jul-17 |
|
IMO the reason carbon arrows wear these incredibly heavy heads is because they need weight to bend. Like graphite fishing rods, they are stiff as a poker. You have to muscle the rod to get it to bend. Same deal. I dislike graphite fly rods. I like old school fiberglass, it easily loads for casting up close, at twenty feet, where I like to fish.
|
|
From: 2 bears
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 29-Jul-17 |
|
If you are sure of your numbers. I would go with the heavier GPP and front of center,for quietness and penetration. How ever that sounds a little stiff off hand. Either will be fine which ever shoots the best for you. Good Luck.>>>----> Ken
|
|
From: deerme
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 29-Jul-17 |
|
Worthy question Rob. So according to the spine calculator, it gives you a match for your bow inputs identifying a 400 spine and a 500 spine (loaded heavy on the front) as having the same amount of flex. I would think the 400 would oscillate less after the riser clearance and recover itself quicker thus giving better penetration at close range. Of course being heavier would help penetration also. In the end though I agree with fdp, sharp broadhead on target with either one. Maybe you just need to decide which camp you want to be in; heavy arrow/light arrow...try them both for your self good luck and have fun.
|
|
From: Shifty
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 29-Jul-17 |
|
I think it will be easier for you to get the 500 to fly true than the 400,but depending on your form and what not it could be the 600 would be best.I find that i need a weaker spine than the Calcs say,i guess my form is not so good. I shoot 45@29 and use a 2016-30.125" with 180grns total up front.Good luck and have fun.
|
|
From: Babbling Bob
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 29-Jul-17 |
|
As said, bet you will find your best combination is not going to be 400's but somewhere between a 500 or even a 600 (with less weight up front). However, a survey from this forum may not get you the best set up.
I made a mistake of going too heavy the first time to a 500 for 45lb, but I have a short draw. This was from advice from a shop which specializes in compounds. They later got a new manager who also shot traditional, so after my 500 arrows flu everyway but loose, he put me on some 600's and they worked fine. Two folks I worked with also had 45lb recurves and longbows and shot 600's with similar draw lengths.
Go to Stu's Spine calculator for a rough idea and call 3 Rivers, a sponser here and they can provide the right help, or go to a shop which is a really large dealer with a huge amount of trad experience and talk to someone there who shoots trad. Don't look for cheap discount store deals until you have the right size but instead, get some shafts from a dealer who knows trad sizes and can help you with your particular situation.
|
|
From: Bernie P.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 29-Jul-17 |
|
I would go with the 500 and as much weight up front as will work.Toward that end try your arrow with a broadhead.Start with the arrow a couple inches longer and cut off a 1/4" at a time until it shoots right down the middle.
|
|
From: robbartley
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 01-Aug-17 |
|
Thanks everyone. Borrowed some made-up 500s from a friend and they shoot well. Short for my draw so I will need to be a little longer and lower on the point weight. Total weight up front on his arrows is 200 including insert. Will bareshaft with different weight upfront and she what it settles on. Thanks again.
|
|
From: Therifleman
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 01-Aug-17 |
|
Im not surprised the 500s shoot well. While i usually recommend something like 600s, black widows are cut a bit deeper and i think you'll find it to work with a bit stiffer arrow--- only way to know for sure is to tune ( i always bareshaft unless shooting wood).
|
|
From: Bowmania
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 01-Aug-17 |
|
www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html click on 'download printable version'.
Good suggestions here. Most people don't know how to bare shaft.
Bowmania
|
|
If you have already registered, please sign in now
For new registrations Click Here
|
|
|