I have decided to try aluminum arrows for reasons too long to go into here. I shoot a 68 inch Bighorn Ramhunter longbow, 45@30 and my draw length is 30 inches. I currently use cedar arrows spined 55-60 lbs and tip my arrows with 125 grain field points and 125 grain Magnus 2 blade broad heads. I shoot 3 under using Fixed Crawl method although my bow is tillered for split finger.

I referenced the 3 Rivers Archery spine chart and the recommended aluminum shaft is either 1916 or 2013. I can buy a test kit but before I go that route I would like advice based on your experiences as to which of these shafts might be best for my set up.

Thanks.

Either one should work, the 1916 will take more abuse than the 2013, thicker wall.

Bob

I would go with a 1916.

This might help:

http://www.shootingthestickbow.com/ArrowGuide.html

1916 is a very forgiving arrow, in my experience.

i would go 1916 out of these choices. I would also consider testing a 2016

At that draw length 2016's may work.

With that DL I would try the 2013 first. I have a 28" DL and I would start at 1916 for a #45 bow. Some have said 2016 and I think that would be my 2nd starting choice with that DL/DW combination. Know anyone you can borrow a 1916 off of?

I agree with Bob. The 1916 will take more abuse. Years ago, I used a 2413 arrow in a wheelie bow setup I had. 13 mil aluminum doesn't take much abuse very well.

1916 or 2016

either should work but 16s take more abuse. I shoot a 2117 out of 50#s 29", 125 gr head 68" Longbow when I don't use my woods. I also shoot a 1913 cut 30" out of my 60# Compound for targets & heavy 2216 out of same set up hunting. I've found you can pretty much shoot several size Aluminums that fly great to achieve what you want. Target I want a lighter, faster arrow & hunting I want heavy for the punch power.

Since your draw is 30 as well, you may want to try 2016 at 31 or 32" before buying the 1916. I think the 1916 may be borderline soft and the 2016 may be a better arrow.

Since your draw is 30 as well, you may want to try 2016 at 31 or 32" before buying the 1916. I think the 1916 may be borderline soft and the 2016 may be a better arrow.

George x2

I shoot 2016's out of my 45" @ 30" bows cut to 31" BOP, but I think I am running 145 (could be 175) grain points on them. I normally shoot 1916's out of my 40# and under bows. At a 30" draw length, they are right on the edge of being weak on the 45# bows, unless I go to a really light point. That is leaving them full length, right at 31.25" BOP

"George x2"

Yeah, well, I guess he beat you to it!

FWIW, Lancaster sells arrows/shafts individually, so you could get 2-3 of each size. And since you'll be shooting them pretty much full-length, you should have no trouble trading off whichever size(s) aren't quite right...

I'm pretty sure that a 28" 1916 is dead-nuts out of my #55@28" RER Vortex (drawn to about 27"), but so much depends on your centershot... #55@28" Howatt Hunter & Bighorn TD both like a 2016. 125s up front in all cases... I also have a #50@28" Bamboo Viper that will probably end up shooting 1816s when all of the dust settles.

You wanna hear Silly? I would rather shoot the 20XX shaft size because glue-on nocks fit better. Besides - I just plain LIKE fatter shafts... 22-23 32nds look really good to me.

Less silly is that, given a choice between a lighter shaft with a heavier point vs the opposite, I'd rather hunt with the lighter shaft, because while the two will flex "equally" at launch (dynamic spine), the lighter shaft will flex less upon impact, so it should penetrate better.

But the thicker wall sure is your friend when you're out stumping!

I have a Bear mini-mag modified to the DASS system with Black Max glass/wood long limbs 45@29 (my draw ) i use 2016s cut to 30.125 "with 186 grns total up front (head,adapter,insert)they shoot great for me,but may not for you.

2016 at 31.5 perfect

Personally I would look hard at 1820's myself. Small diameter and VERY tough due to the .020 thick walls. And plenty of weight to boot.

I'm with George

2016 very likely a better choice, at least that is where I would start

2014 might be a good choice too. Depends on your intended use.

1916 - .623 deflection - 10 gpp

2013 - .610 - 9 gpp

1820 - .592 - 12.2 gpp

2014 - .579 - 9.6 gpp

2016 - .531 - 10.6 gpp

Opos dang, those should read GPI not GPP. Morning brain...

I find that for a 45# at your DW I would try 2016.

Thanks Dana. Anything on that chart could be tuned to work by varying point weight and shaft length. The heavier two might best match the weight you are used to with your wooden arrows. I might first try the 1820s for toughness and best penetration if large bone is struck. - lbg

Thanks for the help everybody. Based on your input and discussions with a couple trad shops via phone, I'm going to try 2016s.

I'll report back on results for anyone interested.

They make arrows out of metal now?

:^)

Glad you are going with 2016's at your draw length. 1916's and 2016's are my go to shafts for 48-57# bows. I draw just over 27" and cut my shafts to 28". 2016's will give you some wiggle room. 1916's would have been light. I keep 2113's and 2114's in the quiver as well. If they shoot well I build out the sight window for the narrower 2016 and 1916 shafts.

First shots with my new 2016s. Excellent flight from my 45#@30" longbow with both 125 grain field points and 125 grain Bear 2 Blade and 125 gran Magnus 2 blade. Crown is flo orange marking paint, with flo orange and flo yellow fletching. I'm going to add some Nocturnal lighted nocks.

Bow and arrow combinations can be very idiosyncratic, but there are a couple of aluminunm sizes that seem to work for a pretty wide range of bow weights. 2016 is one of them. 2117 is the other. The other good news is that they are widely available in a variety of price ranges. So if you tinker with the length of the shaft, and the weight of the point and FOC, you will have a deadly combination I do believe.

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