Yesterday I was checking the tune on my Toelke Whip 42# (I draw 26 so about 38) and Heritage 75 full length. I had been shooting 125s and found them and 148 field points to bareshaft right on the money. When I switched to a 90 grain field tip trying to get a flatter trajectory the arrow went to the left showing weak (I shoot left handed). Has anyone else gotten a false weak reading like this and can someone explain it?

Yes, I have. A stiff arrow will bounce/kick off the riser and cause it to show weak.

Often, a very stiff arrow will make a "click" sound too.

You're saying it's nock right, correct?

Yes--it is nock right with the arrow flying to the left of point of aim.

If you tune by 'nock kick' it's a regular occurrence.

It's the reason you should bare shaft plane (bad name) or group tune or impact tune. www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html click on 'download printable version'.

Bowmania

Well switching to 90 grains to get more speed is stiffening the shaft anyway to where it is not likely spined correctly. The false reading should be obvious then, especially when you are getting proper tune with points 35 grains heavier. You want more speed, you need to drop a spine for those 90 grain. That's just plain common sense tuning.

Again, for the majority of archers, trying to tune arrows using nock orientation and impact position is perhaps the least reliable method that you can use. Nock orientation is affected by target medium to a huge degree.

Are those shafts 33" long?

I am paying close attention to where bareshaft impacts the target in relation to fletched shafts. I back up to 30 yds as i go... I understand the unreliability of looking at nock position. Shafts are 30.5" and spine is supposed to be .670. i have found i need a very weak arrow for my set up and draw length, which limits my choices for a sturdy arrow. Thanks for the replies!

https://vimeo.com/70422708 watch this vidio it may help it covers bare shaft tuning shaft length and adjusting "spine" by changing strike plates thicker/thinner harder/softer vs point weight

There are certain setups that are easier to to get perfect arrow flight with wood shafts than with carbon. Short draws and light poundage bows are easy to get a nice 27" bop wood arrow to fly as perfect as most can shoot. 26" @ 38 pounds, that is exactly the specs of my wife with her 38@26 Lost Creek NAT. 1816s with 145 and 160 with point and adapter work nice as well, but that is a 445 to 460 grain arrow. She much prefers wood arrows that come in 430 to 440 grains. I tried to get her to play with the full length carbons, she hated them, by the time that I got them to NOT be touchy to the slightest shooting variances, they were over 500 grains.

also you can try a thinner strike plate and/or raising your brace hight

I agree that if you REALLY want to lighten an arrow enough to improve trajectory, it would most likely require a different shaft/spine.

They're flying well with 125's and 145's. Okay, good starting point. Just for ha-has, try 175's.

After years of pondering and trying stuff, I've come to one conclusion - carbons can be just plain weird ;-)

Oh Yea, I have been through the frustration of a false weak tune. I kept going the wrong way until the shaft had rubbed off all of the Velcro on my side plate. What a dummy.

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