I have a short draw -- 25 inches -- and want 26 inch wood arrows. I got cedar shafts that I'm getting set to start building. First step is straightening. I was thinking, maybe I should just cut the shafts (currently 32 inches long) to about 28 inches before I straighten. Save me some effort and they will be closer to their final length that way. Can anyone give me a reason not to do this?

I would probably straighten them full length before cutting them. That would give you some "wiggle room" if you have a really stubborn kink at one end that doesn't want to cooperate. It also isn't really any need to have to cut'em twice. Just my thoughts....

Cut off both ends not just one

Straighten before cutting. The extra length gives you some leverage. Say a shaft needs straitening one or two inches from the end if cut off, you now have 5" of leverage instead of only two.

Bob

If you don't mind me asking why cut from both ends?

A lot of times commercially made POC shaft will have a little kink 1-2" from either end. By cutting from both ends you can eliminate the need for straightening.

Bob

Sorry was on phone and typing is a pain. Bob knows his arrows I'd take what he says as gospel.

I see no reason to not straighten them at cut length. I regularly do that.

As an aside to this, I make shafts using a Veritas doweler. The initial length is about 38" after emerging from the doweler. I immediately eyeball the shaft, and the grain, and rough straighten the shaft to get an idea of how straight I think it will be, and then cut to length. Through the entire arrow making process regular straightening is necessary. Straighten the lasrt two inches can be a real trip though.

I buy work clothes on occasion from GoodWill. Those are freely donated, by the haves, not the have nots. The only way I can justify doing such is knowing there are people in there that need help, and the money I spend there helps them, in addition to me. "HAW!!! Lookee what I got for a nickle!" doesn't enter the picture.

lol Note: check thread title before hitting submit.

I always straighten them first full length and then made the straightest end the nock end and grind the nock taper.Then I would dip one coat of clear to seal the shaft,helps maintain the straightness and keep out moisture.Then I would do the rest of finishing out the arrows.

sprinke, just to make sure... You know that if you buy 50-55# arrows, they are spined for 28". You gain 5# for every inch under 28". Therefore, your arrows behave as if they are 65-70#. More info on my site. http://traditionalarchery101.com/simplearrow.html Jawge

I also make the straightest grain end the nock end. Rift that cross the shaft entirely get pitched. Doctors are expensive. lol

I always straighten the full length shaft. Then I cut out the straightest portion for my arrows. And restraighten as needed.

Straighten full length before shortening. You have more to hold onto when hand flexing. Cut both ends if needed to get the straightest portion. Best grain toward the nock.

Thanks, this is all very helpful.

Jawge, yup I'm aware of this. That's why I've got 25-30# spined shafts in my attempt to get short arrows for my 35# bow (yes, it's 35# at my 25 inch draw length).

Oh ok, sprinkle. Jawge

you might find things you would like to cut out as you straighten and if you have already cut them you can't do anything about imperfections. You might find the grain on on end or the other is more aesthetically pleasing.

I never consider cutting a shaft before its straightened. You might end up with difficulty's in the area you cut.

Unfortunately commercial shafts are not stress relieved.They come through the process as they were cut.Whilst cutting blanks you will have some come out with a pronounced bend in them.It does not matter if you pre planed a parallel edge to the grain it still happens.I would presume the worst ones would be discarded.Lots are still machined though.The wood in a shaft will find its most relaxed state and generally stay that way.I make my own shafts so I cut my blanks 1/2" X1/2" so the bent blanks can have two sides hand planed straight and true.Only then do I plane the blank 3/8" square That is the best way I know how to get stable straight shafts 90% of the time.It can and does depend on wood quality and a lesser extent wood specie.I rarely need to straighten shafts but if I do I will do it at full uncut length.You folk don't get a lot of choice but considdering shaft producers do a lot of shafts they do a great job.To be super careful in selecting and stress relieving shafts like I can would be cost prohibitive.You still get great shafts from most commercial producers but the restraints that exist in large scale production will always be there.Your environment has an affect on wood stability too.Humidity ,heat or cold.I also like moisture content no more than 10% and no lower than 4% and try to average it to 7%. OSR

I am having a difficult time visioning how you hand plane the two sides parallel to the grain and don't create run out. If a person planed the high side of the bent blank he would be cutting through the growth rings and creating run out. I have always called stressed wood, compression wood and I don't bother with it because it can be straightened but will need straightened again and again. you can sometimes tell compression wood before you ever create blanks, by looking at the rounds cut from the tree too much width variation in grain from one side of round to the other is an indicator.

This stress relief process sounds like you are planing across grain lines to make a straight blank? I can see how that would work to make straight shafts, but doesnt it compromise strength by creating run out?

sorry lots of questions not challenging you, just learning and this interests the heck out of me.

oz

Yeah Oz it can cut through a bit of grain but it in no way affects the shafts integrity.You know we are talking 32 nd 's and 64 th 's here not the severe run out like cheap shafts have.When you plane you just hit the high spots.The other thing is I don't use heat to straighten shafts as I think it upsets the fibres in the wood too much. As far as compressed shafts not all wood species will do it well.I don't do that either but do recognise Sweetland shafts worked very well and by using POC that process worked.Also all my shafts I make are footed and that's all I have shot for many years now.My big thing is getting the best wood I can.I just moved house and discovered I have aquired about 3000 odd blanks.This is far more than I thought I had stockpiled.It works for me and shaft straightening is rarely required because of my prep work and care in choosing wood.My two main woods I use are Douglas fir and Baltic pine.The Baltic pine I have is probably the best wood I have ever used.Its equal to fine POC and maybe even better.I still can't make the perfect wood arrow but the fun is trying.The truth is I will never shoot well enough to ever tell the differance. OSR

I leave them full length, wood, carbon, aluminum. Gives me more shaft to work with and hang on to. I do a point taper first. That is because I use a big old Delta BH to spin the shaft with while straightening. I use heatgun, Shaft tamer, on really stubborn shafts

Buy Surewood premium and don't waste your time. On the others I use an AAE arrow straightener to pin point the problem areas. I only straighten enough to do me. I use 26" of wood. Straightening is not a labour of love it's a waste of time. Rooty

Where do you guys that make your own shafts buy your wood? I have very limited places to choose from.

Hookman I get all my wood from demolition sites.All my wood is recycled beams old doors furniture and wooden window frames.You could buy wood from lumber merchants or Home Depot or what ever.I am very particular about wood and like well seasoned old growth wood.The fresh cut wood from lumber merchants tends to be from young trees and more likely to be kiln dried not naturally seasoned.My stock is any where from 60 to over 100 years since it was cut.That provides me with the best wood I can get.The best part is it's all free.The worst part is nails and screws.Not only does it ruin good wood it ain't too kind to saw blades.A metal detector is of great help in that regard.It is really a simple process to saw blanks and round them off with a router jig.The thing is check out your wood and plane a edge parallel to the grain and then cut blanks using that edge against the fence.I think Jim Davis posted good pictures of his jig and there is lots of YouTube videos out there as well.Initial set up takes a bit of time and fine tuning .This should have you pushing out shafts in around a shaft a minute or less.I just have more fun doing it by hand plane.You can play with different wood species too.Its a good rewarding feeling doing it for yourself.Go for it.A moisture meter is a good thing to use too.I find between 4% to 10% to work good I try to stay around 7% though.It does pay for its self if you can afford the time. OSR

after reading on here that some really liked lodgepole shafts I have been cutting my own lodgepole trees, I have acreage with lots of lodgepole. several are drying now but I have not made any shafts. I have to get some made and see if the trees on my place make good shafts, there is alot more to it than just type of tree, it takes a specific type of growth in that type of tree. I am the rookie asking all the questions right now. Excited to get working with it though and see what I can make. I have been accumulating all the tools necessary to build wood arrows, I even got a moisture meter.

oz

Hey just jump in there is a learning curve but it is very enjoyable.The more you do the easier it is to recognise good wood.It gives me great satisfaction creating good shafts.You have an option of machining or to hand plane shafts.Both methods work but one is quicker.You can progress to doing your own footed arrows too.Never boring for me at least.Enjoy yourself. OSR

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