I was just reading a couple posts started by guys who were asking about their arrows being "too long". I would like to give my opinion as to why a longer and heavier full length carbon works best for me.

I am shooting a BW PCH that is 44# @ 28". I draw 28". I recently switched from a 28.5" .600 spine Gold Tip to a full length .500 Beman Camo Hunter. I am using a 175gr fp and broadhead. My arrows weigh 462gr and are flying about 165fps. These shafts bareshaft a little weak at 20 yards and fly perfectly with 4" shield cut feathers. Actually, I am shooting better than I ever have and these arrows shoot better than any shaft that I have ever shot. These arrows are a little over 10grpp. I am accustomed to shooting about 9grpp. I shoot three under and with these arrows, my "point on" is about 30 yards. I am a split vision shooter, I suppose, and for shots that are under 30 yards, my gap is only a few inches,which means better accuracy for me. So, for me, the longer and heavier arrows give me a great sight picture(shorter gap) and the heavier weight seems to give me a more forgiving arrow. I'm losing a little speed by going from an arrow that is 9grpp to one that is a little over 10grpp but that increased accuracy from a smaller gap and a more stable arrow more than makes up for the speed loss.

Don't worry about having 3" of arrow hanging off the end of your arrow shelf if you are happy with your accuracy. I was once concerned about shooting a "spear" from my bow but I am loving these longer and heavier shafts. In my experience, carbons are more sensitive to changes in shaft length as oppossed to point weight. It is very easy to cut carbons too short. I have done it several times and it takes alot of point weight to make up for a shorter shaft. I can shoot a 125gr-200gr point with these full length shafts and get good arrow flight from all of them. The 175's bareshaft a little weak which results in perfect flight with fletched shafts. For me, these full length .500 spine carbons with a heavy point weight work better than a shorter .600 spine shaft.

"These shafts bareshaft a little weak at 20 yards and fly perfectly with 4" shield cut feathers."

If your bare shaft are a little weak, your fletched shaft (is a little weak) aren't perfect. The reason the feathers are on there is to cover up mistakes by you and the spine.

In order to have a perfect arrow you need IMPACTS, nock kick and paper tuning to agree. IF impacts and nock kick agree, I have never seen paper not to agree.

Bowmania

If it's working...don't rock the boat.

But there isn't an inherent advantage to longer/heavier carbons. You just hit on a balance that is shooting well for you. I often find myself in that same gap between long 500 and shorter 600. I go with the total arrow weight that I want.

Using high GPP to shrink your gaps works best at known ranges and actually BEST for ONE known range (like shooting 300 rounds). You'll have a lot of fall in your trajectory between 22 and 30 yards. But if you plan to shoot 10-20, it Would be ok

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